tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67566302138488297132024-02-02T18:21:13.065+01:00The Pines of RomeMusings, curiosities, history and art in eternally thrilling Rome.Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comBlogger151125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-56146489762988443182016-12-20T14:00:00.000+01:002016-12-22T14:19:02.529+01:00Rome's Unsolved Mysteries<div>
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So you think you know everything there is to know about Rome? Ok, maybe that’s asking a lot. Do you believe you can find the answer to any Rome-related question with a simple Google search? Are you convinced your heaving library of books on Rome holds all the answers? Think every facet of this city’s past has been asked and answered? Well, think again. There are, in fact, many question marks that surround Rome’s fascinating history. Let’s go on a little treasure hunt of sorts to look at some of the most intriguing unanswered questions:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZaOO5pOlwFvIN-SWhId3VrchIj4O5UtULIrMMgdhbvYX_K96QYZihUucFLsgw7_usQEQMgmfFSbaUEG2aFP5tNtyZvq8KOXQx6cQpfHqIoN-nbvaQbB0B6m5oa1a56encHaKU0MW2Pk/s1600/Pantheon+light+shaft.tif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Pantheon Rome light shaft" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZaOO5pOlwFvIN-SWhId3VrchIj4O5UtULIrMMgdhbvYX_K96QYZihUucFLsgw7_usQEQMgmfFSbaUEG2aFP5tNtyZvq8KOXQx6cQpfHqIoN-nbvaQbB0B6m5oa1a56encHaKU0MW2Pk/s400/Pantheon+light+shaft.tif" title="Pantheon on Rome's birthday. Photo by Tiffany Parks" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Pantheon on Rome's birthday, © Tiffany Parks</td></tr>
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<b>Is the Pantheon a sundial?</b><br />
The Pantheon is one of the most recognizable monuments in the Eternal City and receives millions of visitors every year. Any guidebook will tell you that the temple was built by Emperor Hadrian around 126 AD, that it’s the best-preserved ancient Roman building in the city, and that the early Renaissance architects studied it for insight on building domes. Its most characteristic aspects include a coffered ceiling, the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, and an oculus—or open hole—in the ceiling that illuminates the dark interior with dramatic shafts of light.<br />
But recent studies have hypothesized that the iconic site is even more than meets the eye. Historians Robert Hannah and Giulio Magli claim that the true purpose of the Pantheon was nothing less than an enormous sundial, having been oriented so that the sunbeam from the oculus lights up certain areas of the interior at significant times of the year. And in fact, the light beam shines directly out the door at noon on 21 April, the legendary founding of the city, and in other striking ways on solstices and equinoxes. Other scholars disagree, saying that the purpose of the oculus was to cool the building in the heat of summer, or lighten the weight of the immense dome to prevent collapse. But without concrete evidence, the true purpose of the Pantheon will remain one more of Rome’s unsolved mysteries.<br />
<i>Piazza della Rotonda. Open Mon–Sat, 9am–7:30pm; Sun, 9am–6pm.</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basilica Neopitagorica<b><br /></b></td></tr>
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<b>What was the Basilica Neopitagorica used for?</b><br />
Located directly below the tracks of a railroad line that connects Rome and Naples and buried entirely underground, the Basilica Neopitagorica is one of the most mysterious and little-known sites in the city. The mysterious building lies nearly nine meters under Via Prenestina, and is laid out in the classical basilica plan, with three naves, an apse, an atrium, and a dromos. The barrel-vaulted ceilings are decorated with stucco reliefs depicting mystic symbols, the floors are covered with traces of black and white mosaics, and frescoes along the walls depict scenes from Greek mythology.<br />
But no one knows for sure what this cryptic space was used for, and multiple theories have been put forth since its accidental discovery in 1917. Some claim it was a nymphaeum, others insist it was a mausoleum or funerary complex dating to the late-Augustan period. The most widely held belief is that it was a sanctuary of the Neo-Pythagorean cult, a philosophic and religious movement inspired by the teachings of the Greek thinker Pythagoras. The cult eventually died out in favor of Neo-Platonism, and the basilica appears to have been destroyed during the reign of Emperor Claudius.<br />
Although it is now entirely excavated, the site has long been inaccessible to the public, mostly due to its precarious position beneath the railway line. However, it opened its doors for a limited series of visits this past fall, and although those visits are now over, we can only hope that they decide to do so again in the near future. Especially as this one’s on <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/04/my-rome-bucket-list-21-things-to-do-in.html" target="_blank">my bucket list</a>.<br />
<i>Piazzale Labicano. <a href="http://www.coopculture.it/">www.coopculture.it</a></i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura<b><br /></b></td></tr>
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<b>Is the Holy Grail in Rome?</b><br />
Everyone knows the story of the mystical Holy Grail and the numerous lifelong quests to discover its location, or even confirm its very existence. From King Arthur to the Knights Templar to Indiana Jones, every great adventurer has dreamed of holding the sacred chalice in his hands. But what if this most sought-after of artifacts were right here in Rome, under our very noses? That’s what archeologist Alfredo M. Barbagallo claims. Christian tradition would have it that the treasures of the early church were entrusted to St. Lawrence by Pope Sixtus II in 258 AD. Was it a coincidence that the saint was martyred just four days later (famously grilled alive) during the persecution of Emperor Valerian? Barbagallo says no. He believes that St. Lawrence took the grail with him to his grave, on top of which was built a small shrine, and later the Basilica San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura. Go ahead and visit for yourself, but keep in mind that the catacombs under the church remain sealed. Until they are opened, we’ll never know for sure.<br />
<i>Piazzale del Verano, 3. Open daily, 7:30am–12:30pm and 3:30–7pm.</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Colosseum by night, © Alessandro Silipo<b><br /></b></td></tr>
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<b>Is Rome truly haunted?</b><br />
In a city that has seen as much death as Rome has, there are bound to be a few ghosts flying around. From the thousands of people slaughtered in the Colosseum, to the medieval plagues that carried away 90% of the population to the Sack of Rome of 1527 that claimed up to 12,000 lives, the scent of death has been a constant in the Eternal City since its inception. For centuries, it was believed that the Colosseum was one of the seven portals to hell, rife with demons. Artist Benvenuto Cellini wrote in the 16th century of his experience consulting with a necromancer at the Colosseum, seeking to discover the fate of his missing lover. As late as the turn of the last century, the Colosseum was thought to be so polluted by the noxious fumes of its countless murders as to be fatal to anyone who breathed them, particularly at night. (Just read Henry James’ <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Daisy-Miller-Penguin-Classics-Henry/dp/0141441348/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1482236771&sr=1-1&keywords=daisy+miller" target="_blank"><i>Daisy Miller</i></a> if you don’t believe us.) Decide for yourself if it’s truly haunted by taking an after-hours tour, but don’t say I didn’t warn you.<br />
<i>Piazza del Colosseo, 1. <a href="http://www.coopculture.it/">www.coopculture.it</a></i><br />
Want more solid proof of the existence of ghosts? Pay a visit to the Museum of the Souls in Purgatory, a tiny museum that displays messages from beyond the grave: fingerprints burned into prayer books, a charred handprint on a wooden table, and other creepy evidence that heaven’s unpleasant waiting room might actually exist. <br />
<i>Lungotevere Prati, 12. Open 7:30–11am and 3:30–7:30pm.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcKdcMZ6z7mtF_xO2dVdcCS8fQMrfEHON6sF-0bJI6_IpUmCwwMRPxqNn099UyWCeVEkkusMFy9pz1k8lO2Z6rs_SCLv_vav0j7KWVSLtTlUHAg92zI4D-a-fQbZfHN_vKDjhtdaMLqVE/s1600/Juan+and+Cesare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcKdcMZ6z7mtF_xO2dVdcCS8fQMrfEHON6sF-0bJI6_IpUmCwwMRPxqNn099UyWCeVEkkusMFy9pz1k8lO2Z6rs_SCLv_vav0j7KWVSLtTlUHAg92zI4D-a-fQbZfHN_vKDjhtdaMLqVE/s400/Juan+and+Cesare.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">David Oakes as Juan Borgia and Francois Arnaud as Cesare Borgia in Showtime's series, <i>The Borgias</i></td></tr>
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<b>Did Cesare Borgia kill his brother?</b><br />
The infamous <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/rome-in-time-of-borgias-has-anything.html" target="_blank">Borgia clan</a>: they were rich, powerful, corrupt, violent, and Spanish. Led by the charismatic and sensual patriarch Rodrigo Borgia, who was elected Pope Alexander VI in 1492, they were the most hated and feared family in Renaissance Rome. Scandal followed wherever they went, and not without good reason. The Pope had at least 11 illegitimate children and celebrated his ascension to the throne of St. Peter by acquiring a new teenaged mistress. Two of his children, Cesare and Lucrezia, were accused of having an incestuous relationship, and his Master of Ceremonies Johannes Burkhart reported elaborate orgies taking place inside the Pope’s apartments. But by far the greatest scandal of his papacy was the death of the family golden child, Juan Borgia, when his body mysteriously washed up on the shores of the Tiber with its throat slit and nine stab wounds to its torso. He was hated by so many people that it was impossible to identify a killer, although many scholars believe one of his own brothers did the deed, most likely Cesare, jealous of their father’s favor and their sister’s affections. After more than 500 years, the trail has gone a bit cold, and it’s unlikely we’ll ever know for sure who killed Juan Borgia. But a visit to the <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/01/borgia-pope-pinturicchio-and-la-bella.html" target="_blank">Borgia Apartment </a>(part of the Vatican Museums), with the nefarious family members immortalized in frescoes by Pinturicchio, will make the mystery come alive. And keep your eyes peeled for the trap door that reportedly exists somewhere within it, a hatch that emptied directly into the Tiber, making it all too easy for the Pope to dispose of his enemies.<br />
<i>Viale Vaticano. Open Mon–Sat, 9am–4pm. <a href="http://www.vatican.va/">www.vatican.va</a></i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pope John Paul I, August 1978<b><br /></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQN4rfEp8i8TX5zEThR187YCiLaRkYHvNm1jOaMhzfkP7uTIbDeJAw7vHNmymSfz0QDtx36DKstybHJsGzyvA0ZtCn4Y19KtAxAlRE5iNFR0HWp3RXJMfHBLhQHwgPi2dtGoolnWJ_Wg/s1600/John+Paul+I+funeral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQN4rfEp8i8TX5zEThR187YCiLaRkYHvNm1jOaMhzfkP7uTIbDeJAw7vHNmymSfz0QDtx36DKstybHJsGzyvA0ZtCn4Y19KtAxAlRE5iNFR0HWp3RXJMfHBLhQHwgPi2dtGoolnWJ_Wg/s200/John+Paul+I+funeral.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pope John Paul I, September 1978</td></tr>
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<b>Was John Paul I murdered?</b><br />
A slightly more recent Vatican whodunit concerns the fate of Pope John Paul I, whose pontifical reign lasted a mere 33 days. Elected on 26 August 1978, he was found dead in the early hours of the morning of 29 September, barely a month later. Official Church spokespeople insisted his death was natural, although some reported heart attack and others said pulmonary embolism, others still claimed an accidental overdose of his medications. It would later be impossible to confirm, as his body was embalmed immediately, with no autopsy. Not only that, but the Pope had no history of heart issues, his personal items disappeared, never to be seen again, and it eventually came out that the nun who had discovered his body was placed under a vow of silence. Many suggest there was, in fact, a more sinister explanation behind his untimely demise, perhaps because Papa Luciani (as he was affectionately known) did not always adhere to the conservative Vatican line, and his fervent goal was to rid the echelons of the Church of its wealth and power. Not very convenient for the big dogs in the Vatican curia. To learn more, pick up a copy of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Gods-Name-David-Yallop/dp/0786719842/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1482236574&sr=1-2&keywords=in+god%27s+name" target="_blank"><i>In God’s Name</i></a>, a work of nonfiction by investigative journalist David Yallop.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johanna Wokalek as the title character in <i>Pope Joan</i> (Constatin Film)</td></tr>
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<b>Was there really a female pope?</b><br />
A mystery that is sure to remain unsolved, probably for all time, is that of Pope Joan, the supposed female pope. The story goes that, during the early Middle Ages—the 9th century according to most accounts—a young Saxon woman who was unusually well educated for the time, disguised herself as a man and became a monk. She later travelled to Rome where she ascended the church hierarchy and was eventually elected pope. She ruled for two and a half years, but was discovered when she gave birth unexpectedly during a papal procession, and died shortly thereafter. The earliest reports of this extraordinary tale don’t appear until the 13th century, and for this reason, many naysayers reject the story out of hand. But while the story of “la papessa” officially holds legend status, there are those who wholeheartedly believe she existed. Their number one piece of evidence is a wooden chair—reportedly hidden away in the archives of the Vatican Museums—with a keyhole shape cut out of its seat. During the middle Ages, newly elected popes would be asked to sit on the chair, while a cardinal checked to make sure they were indeed male. Intrigued? Pick up Donna Woolfolk Cross’s historical novel <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Pope-Joan-Donna-Woolfolk-Cross/dp/0307452360" target="_blank"><i>Pope Joan</i></a>, or the 2009 film based on the same.<br />
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</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-87906345138771945872015-04-25T12:05:00.001+02:002015-04-25T16:35:01.126+02:00Rome's Top 10 Piazzas for Hanging Out<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7UphMBoP0YCwwcMYyoVnZO00Fd8MwCxckXLETwlCokGwI-Ytsb7j-Q9CjXPWQp8UkXiGhYXaFDED_VB_4wNCFuacF9f7G31tZ7wB5ANp-IuYQ50vfO8GWaqpWmKIZipCZYrk8EFeZN-I/s1600/Campo+de+Fiori+c-Michael+Foley_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7UphMBoP0YCwwcMYyoVnZO00Fd8MwCxckXLETwlCokGwI-Ytsb7j-Q9CjXPWQp8UkXiGhYXaFDED_VB_4wNCFuacF9f7G31tZ7wB5ANp-IuYQ50vfO8GWaqpWmKIZipCZYrk8EFeZN-I/s1600/Campo+de+Fiori+c-Michael+Foley_0.jpg" height="291" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campo de Fiori, (c) Michael Foley</td></tr>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">The weather in Rome is finally getting warmer, dear bloglings, so it's time to get outside and do what Romans do best: hang out, people watch, take a passeggiata, sip an aperitivo, soak up the sun, in other words: see and be seen. And where is the best place to indulge in this Italian of all activities? In a piazza, of course.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">So many tourists who visit Rome neglect to make time in their busy sightseeing schedule to participate in this utterly Roman activity: the <i>dolce far niente</i>, the art of doing nothing, that Italians do so well (too well sometimes!). Schlepping yourself from one tourist attraction to the next means you'll get a lot of important sites crossed off your list, but you might just miss out on getting to know Rome on a deeper level. Immerse yourself in the city's way of life, and you'll find that you'll go home with a greater understanding of this incomparable city.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The Italian piazza is the ultimate urban
living room, a visually stimulating public space (preferably void of traffic)
where the city’s residents can relax, and its visitors can take a well-deserved
break from the demands of the day. Bright, airy, full of glorious works of architecture, and
nine times out of ten with a fountain splashing in the center, Rome’s piazzas can
sometimes feel like open-air museums. Most of the city’s major piazzas can also
boast a café, a bench, or at the very least some convenient church steps, upon
which to enjoy a few minutes or hours of sweet idleness.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">If you’ve flipped through a guidebook,
you’ve doubtless heard of (and probably already visited) Rome’s most famous
piazzas, such as Piazza Navona with Bernini’s magnificent Fountain of the Four
Rivers, Piazza di Spagna with the iconic Spanish Steps, Piazza della Rotonda in
the shadow of the Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo with its towering obelisk, and Piazza di Trevi with its eponymous fountain. These
must-see squares are undeniably spectacular, but during the height of tourist
season, you’d be hard-pressed to find a free place to sit, let alone a corner
of tranquility to soak up Rome’s unique atmosphere. Luckily, the city has a
seemingly endless supply of piazzas, each offering its own distinct character.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Just a few steps from the Pantheon, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Piazza di Pietra</b> is one of Rome’s most
surprising squares. As you step into the piazza from one of the narrow side
streets, the Corinthian columns of the Temple of Hadrian rise to greet you. The
2<sup>nd</sup>-century AD temple was erected on occasion of the deification of Emperor
Hadrian, by his heir and adoptive son Antoninus Pius. Today, what remains of
the temple has been incorporated into a 17<sup>th</sup>-century building,
although the effect is no less arresting. Snag a table at chic Salotto 42 or opt for aperitivo or a full meal at Osteria dell'Ingegno, or if it's coffee hour, your best bet is La Caffettiera, a delightfully old-world café.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphens3K8vdmHb-1jMWJbsI6ecTh5rKsydyu1NOm0vELbCNF9qugz2lxelwsylxCEOFp6kY0npQesf4uNUVjycbKnBjCYlPr-1GWYpFTkXUMVpNlvV484btcqZkz3l6oHyo_pK1UhjIfe7M/s1600/piazza-di-pietra-roma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphens3K8vdmHb-1jMWJbsI6ecTh5rKsydyu1NOm0vELbCNF9qugz2lxelwsylxCEOFp6kY0npQesf4uNUVjycbKnBjCYlPr-1GWYpFTkXUMVpNlvV484btcqZkz3l6oHyo_pK1UhjIfe7M/s1600/piazza-di-pietra-roma.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza di Pietra, [<a href="http://viaggi.corriere.it/methode_image/dove-rcs/foto/foto-articoli/italia/lazio/roma/roma-eventi-primavera/piazza-di-pietra-roma.jpg?v=201312081158" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Piazza
Farnese </span></b><span lang="EN-US">is the epitome of elegance and nobility.
Dominating the rectangular piazza is Palazzo Farnese, the largest and most
opulent once-private palace in the city. Designed by Antonio da Sangallo and
Michelangelo, the palace is now the seat of the French Embassy, and features
exquisite frescoes by the Carracci brothers. The two fountains that flank the
square were repurposed from enormous ancient Roman bathtubs from the 3<sup>rd</sup>-century
Baths of Caracalla, and the long travertine bench that runs the entire length
of Palazzo Farnese makes the square a great place to park with a book and a
gelato. Caffé Farnese is ridiculously overpriced, but you can't beat it for a Sunday afternoon of sunning yourself in one of the most beautiful piazzas in Rome. Ar Galletto is a historic restaurant (they claim to have been the official osteria of the Borgia family back in 1500!) with a large outdoor seating area to soak up the gorgeous square. And if you feel like splurging, there's no where to go but Camponeschi.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVPfx0xmdBmrHQT8EICvqqRbiWoHuPsP52z9EfI91jZrlBMU4Nd_6dEK_SHuZTpevEuJ27JQiZahFt2Az3gWlGXAiMKxKOmuovefxLGgZjnGyiMOGaLih_cn1A8LmltYlI4ABtqANR5C0/s1600/Piazza+Farnese.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVPfx0xmdBmrHQT8EICvqqRbiWoHuPsP52z9EfI91jZrlBMU4Nd_6dEK_SHuZTpevEuJ27JQiZahFt2Az3gWlGXAiMKxKOmuovefxLGgZjnGyiMOGaLih_cn1A8LmltYlI4ABtqANR5C0/s1600/Piazza+Farnese.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza Farnese (c) Sébastien Bertrand [<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tiseb/6867583634/in/photolist-bsSamo-6mD6WA-cjAXjW-cjAXBS-cjAVsE-cjAV75-cjAUG7-cjAX71-cjAWf3-cjAVhu-cjAVFj-cjAXMu-cjAWFU-cjAWrW-cjAUsL-cjAY6G-cjAVTd-cjAWSQ-8SMi54-6coZmP-CPbwi-5py9xB-EfeY3-CPaCn-CP9YX-CPapx-cz1quJ-cz1rgf-67DyW5-CPaT9-CPaFi-boBeHa-cz1sXj-L16yb-boBgJg-boBeqc-CPbDo-CPbsm-CPc4Z-CP9HY-5M51gj-CPbof-CPamC-5ZhZST-5ZhZSR-CP9V8-CPaWr-CPb5j-fcMdmb-fcwUdk" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">If you’re more interested in people
watching than sightseeing, Rome has many piazzas offering opportunities to do
just that. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina</b>
is a triangular wedge in the heart of the Campo Marzio neighborhood where the
well heeled can be seen browsing in shops like Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta,
and Pomellato, or stylishly sipping cappuccinos in one of the open-air cafés. While
you’re there, be sure to visit the eponymous church, with works by Bernini,
Guido Reni, and Carlo Saraceni, and an underground section that includes
fragments of the original 4<sup>th</sup>-century church. Vitti in Lucina and Ciampi are both convenient spots to enjoy anything from coffee or tea, to gelato and pastries, to a full meal.</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Campo
de’ Fiori</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> is a truly 24-hour square. Activity here
starts around 5am when stalls selling fresh produce, spices, honeys, jams,
cheese, fish, cured meats, and more set up as part of Rome’s most famous outdoor
market. When the market winds down around 3pm (and after the street sweepers
have done their work), the square becomes a magnet for the city’s social
butterflies. Enjoy a lazy aperitivo at one of the square’s many outdoor bars,
stick around for dinner, or join the rowdy drinking and amorous mingling that
continues here long after midnight. Just try not to be intimidated by the
ominous glare of the statue of Giordano Bruno! With so many eating and drinking choices, you won't have trouble finding refreshment. I'd recommend Obicà, a slick mozzarella bar serving more types of mozzarella than you knew existed, and Aristocampo, perfect for a quick sandwich if you want to stay on budget.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Across the Tiber River in trendy
Trastevere, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Piazza Santa Maria in
Trastevere</b> is the indisputable meet-up spot for Rome’s young international
crowd, who can be found chatting on the steps of the fountain (the oldest in
the city, according to legend) or milling around the square at any time of day
or night. Lively 5-piece street bands, mimes, dancers, and other entertainers
can be found performing for tips here any night of the week. But don’t be so
distracted by the performers that you miss the stupendous church of the same
name, decorated with medieval mosaics by Pietro Cavallini and 22 ancient Ionic
and Corinthian columns. If you're in Rome in orange season (late fall, winter, and early spring), be sure enjoy a <i>spremuta</i> (freshly-squeezed orange juice) that is as tall as your forearm at the aptly named Caffè delle Arance. (Beware: the price matches the size!) Another option for lazing around and enjoying a tea or coffee is Caffè di Marzio. Try to score one of their wicker sofas, perfect for a tete-à-tete while you sip.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIXHnv6I0dPJMlgKpxkn9L_4n7UtlyDdWBDFrKVHWwe5QNeRlOpVcAzxcMoCwmGlZ1lLPR-OG8E8jGWqE01ItR36vmLm8UOSyd9QvZK0rUGHNbO4A4FPnKtV-SHZkvoA4y32zXY1UzFMw/s1600/Piazza+Santa+Maria+in+Trastevere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIXHnv6I0dPJMlgKpxkn9L_4n7UtlyDdWBDFrKVHWwe5QNeRlOpVcAzxcMoCwmGlZ1lLPR-OG8E8jGWqE01ItR36vmLm8UOSyd9QvZK0rUGHNbO4A4FPnKtV-SHZkvoA4y32zXY1UzFMw/s1600/Piazza+Santa+Maria+in+Trastevere.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere [<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/85353181@N00/16032384888/in/photolist-auh3xu-a1bzYd-8u1jJP-btH8pY-8u1jFZ-8u1jHx-8u1jJk-54jY5F-gfJyF-4fsnV2-nwsHJX-apvFQJ-2abxxM-hPbFYv-oTnABU-oAUGuy-2zq88-NAEgh-NAEg9-6XuYKy-e9rQeX-e9rQ44-2fFBmd-6XqXQM-2k3MAZ-2afWam-2abxpx-8XV2K1-6M4sa5-7V6WnS-KH45W-A5QVY-pLie11-arJHpB-qqSQcn-bGBSQD-cHnQu7-bGBSQM-bGBSQX-bGBSR2-bGBSQP-bGBSQT-dwQmA-jcztAP-4ks6RJ-JQGJ7-54E3ac-JQGAf-hM3tBK-qqJat7" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jem6zJj7lsI8guv6mv1IzK-KIKQogIpvotaZ1oNM28rkf1NQIQGUsAbXPr5-E-Wh-s9orn1wd6pjjA2TTV1oIvocvgC6NolujUoP-qUfZxVKIwBH3CFAPbOmzVxYECJx1our5wi963g/s1600/IMG_7565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jem6zJj7lsI8guv6mv1IzK-KIKQogIpvotaZ1oNM28rkf1NQIQGUsAbXPr5-E-Wh-s9orn1wd6pjjA2TTV1oIvocvgC6NolujUoP-qUfZxVKIwBH3CFAPbOmzVxYECJx1our5wi963g/s1600/IMG_7565.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recording an episode of The BitterSweet Life with Katy Sewall in Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">In the hip, happening neighborhood of
Monti, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Piazza Madonna dei Monti</b> is
home to a battered fountain with plenty of place to sit with a good book, a crossword puzzle, or
your favorite hipster friend. The area is a great mix of both the you and older locals sho have called Monti home for decades, generations even. Lots of little bars and hot spots surround the
square, with outdoor seating spilling out onto the cobblestones. La Bottega del Caffè is great for an informal glass of wine and tempting fingerfood just steps away from the picturesque fountain.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLejGxeqokalvz22QiHK01LtCfjEEOyR1K7HL6wdUQYALgDN5WGNhlVtGnsYiBtQIgfX-YsRlx85MOanybYZUXO4G5vRtnpwRloMCKlp97Kg19QTb2NMwEx1FMy1M3RbNhm-jUaa_zUCs/s1600/Piazza+Madonna+dei+Monti.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLejGxeqokalvz22QiHK01LtCfjEEOyR1K7HL6wdUQYALgDN5WGNhlVtGnsYiBtQIgfX-YsRlx85MOanybYZUXO4G5vRtnpwRloMCKlp97Kg19QTb2NMwEx1FMy1M3RbNhm-jUaa_zUCs/s1600/Piazza+Madonna+dei+Monti.jpg" height="328" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza Madonna dei Monti [<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/30208099@N00/4389745555/in/photolist-7FUAqc-5GpFoM-6tmi6t-4e7Yzu-d8PCFY-a7AVgg-a7DFCC-a7DE81-a7DKV5-a7AWfe-a7DJw9-a7DLsL-7SeJes-a7AZ7R-a7DQvf-a7DNru-a7AUJB-a7DLRo-o9TinA-aDmeA6-6jgoU5-cv1n77-498rK-3Jctd-8GBy3b-8EL3Y4-8EPe3d-oBzFBG-8GRMVS-8H3vxp-8FfWTU-8GBy5J-8H8Evy-ctdwBQ-4dmGa8-e3a8e7-e3a1N3-e3a1Nj-8FiMGs-8H7cfo-8H3vCk-8GRMYY-8H8EvC-aENVKk-aESLhY-aENUNi" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">If what you’re looking for in a piazza is character
and charm, Rome will certainly not disappoint. A magnificent oak tree (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">quercia</i> in Italian) gives its name to
this adorable square just a few blocks from Campo de’ Fiori. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Piazza della Quercia</b>, home to the
minuscule Santa Maria della Quercia, is so quaint in fact, that if you didn’t
know any better, you’d think you were in a small Italian country village
instead of the capital city. The only place to eat in this piazza is Osteria della Quercia. It's Rome at its most characteristic and adorable, but I've experienced inconsistent levels of cuisine there. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAkTpH7cKMv7LxhG5iSF8q-fj_1m__jPx0EMto8Rwcy27bL3TD84q6wIAMIXEK_sFsfG75Lo8giTLt4_Up5kPZrdNZFYq1WkKl9DNlwUsOjlJ5Y-yWrWiInlCVOu2LSkFne4wNv5tV-F4/s1600/Piazza+della+Quercia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAkTpH7cKMv7LxhG5iSF8q-fj_1m__jPx0EMto8Rwcy27bL3TD84q6wIAMIXEK_sFsfG75Lo8giTLt4_Up5kPZrdNZFYq1WkKl9DNlwUsOjlJ5Y-yWrWiInlCVOu2LSkFne4wNv5tV-F4/s1600/Piazza+della+Quercia.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza della Quercia [<a href="http://rete.comuni-italiani.it/foto/2012/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/79938-800x600.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Although<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Piazza Mattei </b>is a favorite square for many Roman residents, it is
more often than not missed by the average tourist, since it is buried within
the tangle of narrow backstreets that make up the Jewish Ghetto. The piazza’s
crowning glory is the Fountain of the Turtles, a small but exquisite fountain
by Giacomo della Porta, decorated with four bronze turtles that were, according
to popular belief, added by Bernini. Bartaruga, a funky bar and a Roman institution, sadly closed recently (apparently the rent was becoming outrageous and they simply could no longer afford to stay in business). Luckily for us, a new locale has opened in its place, Le Tartarughe, a café/restaurant that also serves freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. For a full meal stop at Pan Vino e San Daniele.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkOqSgPLgNT07xBGYND0FKwrRtmzprX6NrFlTOSFJvkuGNBMnQFNGMx7A79jwNvEdaXfgsyWmIuYk_CuIx2OYgHUSRNvDiCQNPZLp1n1rgwiSaPa-CI2TbkRONIsW9J6eOT5ymhyphenhyphenwZIY/s1600/Fontana+delle+Targarughe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkOqSgPLgNT07xBGYND0FKwrRtmzprX6NrFlTOSFJvkuGNBMnQFNGMx7A79jwNvEdaXfgsyWmIuYk_CuIx2OYgHUSRNvDiCQNPZLp1n1rgwiSaPa-CI2TbkRONIsW9J6eOT5ymhyphenhyphenwZIY/s1600/Fontana+delle+Targarughe.jpg" height="260" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza Mattei (c) Jeroen van Luin [<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/-jvl-/13953802541/in/photolist-AibiQ-8XaqnN-b8oLHD-9HPqMN-puYbzr-qaiXWB-qprWu7-qahtoi-tgtiw-5Pcdxx-nwXUrX-9Eqabg-9Et543-4JTDPB-4JTGfp-4JXYD5-4JXVhf-4JTHqi-4JY32U-4JY1Vd-4JTKun-o6LRG9-a8tnTs-6gJG8t-79yEcv-i2HPq-oq2fH8-o6LE3j-o6LBBN-ng3Tmr-o6LDyJ-kYhaJ2-kYi6h5-qjiJgt-kYhaxa-kYi69j-kYgBox-kYgB8x-kYhaue-kYi6b3-kYhaNv-kYi5Af-kYhba2-kYhamt-kYhb8D-kYgBXP-kYi5zd-kYi6y7-kYi5Yu-kYgBmZ" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Piazza
di Pasquino</span></b><span lang="EN-US">, just around the corner from Piazza
Navona, is famous for its “talking statue,” who gave his name to the tiny
square back in the mid-16<sup>th</sup> century when it became an unofficial
posting board for the complaints of an oppressed citizenry (long before freedom
of speech or press had caught on in Rome). It is also the gateway to Rome’s
best street for vintage and boutique shopping, Via del Governo Vecchio. If you're an enophile, grab a table (outdoor if you can manage it) at Cul de Sac, one of the city's trendiest wine bars that also serves scrumptious dishes carefully paired with their countless wines. Lovers of Tuscan cuisine should opt instead for Terra di Siena right next door, and those looking for lighter fare can try Bar Caffetteria Pasquino across the tiny piazza.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">If there’s a single piazza in the Eternal
City that will make you feel you’ve stepped back in time, it’s <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Piazza de’ Mercanti</b>. Located on the
quiet side of Trastevere (east of Viale di Trastevere), the square is lined
with medieval buildings, dripping with ivy and lit by flaming torches come
sundown. Two famous (if exceedingly touristy) restaurants, La Taverna de' Mercanti and Meo Patacca, vie for dominance on
either side of the piazza. </span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-61851925213885313462015-02-20T15:39:00.001+01:002015-02-21T07:39:41.518+01:00Long Time No Blog, or What I've Been up to for the Past Four MonthsOh, my darling bloglings! It's been too long! My guess is that you're either asking:<br>
<br>
Where in the world have you been in the last four months?<br>
<br>
or<br>
<br>
Who are you again?<br>
<br>
Of course, there's a third option, that no one is actually reading this since I have all but abandoned my poor, dedicated bloglings.<br>
<br>
I will try not to dwell on such unpleasant possibilities, and attempt instead to rectify the situation by catching you up on what's been going on in my life since<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/10/10-spookiest-places-in-rome.html" target="_blank"> I last posted four months ago</a>, because, well, it's been one hell of a season. If you've followed this blog for any length of time, you'll know that I rarely talk about my personal life. I'm not a naturally shy person, yet for some reason<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/02/procrastination-and.html" target="_blank"> I have censored myself </a>when it comes to revealing details about my life.<br>
<br>
This is all about to change. You may also know that<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/03/a-podcast-is-born-bittersweet-life-two.html" target="_blank"> I started a podcast</a> in the past year (one of the soon-to-be-mentioned reasons for my lengthy absence). I don't seem to have the same bashfulness when it comes to podcasting, and I'm pretty open about my life when I'm on air, so I figure, all my personal business is already out there and it's too late to get it back, so I might as well mention it here too from time to time.<br>
<br>
So without further ado...<br>
<br>
This winter has been one of the busiest, most exhausting, and most exciting in recent memory. It started out with a bang as I threw a bridal shower for a dear friend in early November. She's mad about the Etruscans (and in particular bronze Etruscan hand mirrors) and so it made perfect sense to throw her an Etruscan-themed bridal shower! I may have had more fun planning this shower than the bride-to-be did attending it. To put it briefly, I went a bit overboard, making Etruscan-themed decorations, treats, and even an Etruscan Bridal magazine.<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rsFvf4q7_8qiWtbxFC2INGRQxvhNFlYPfz4eZCVWEXAQ6if_UFx_psGfuK_kCQwl40_1_bfPMOQDG2nkA0-Douc9EZGrYyHSd1jwiv2c80IfbBe7cdfmbiekw0NGKZHh_Q3yKj7c8mo/s1600/IMG_7381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rsFvf4q7_8qiWtbxFC2INGRQxvhNFlYPfz4eZCVWEXAQ6if_UFx_psGfuK_kCQwl40_1_bfPMOQDG2nkA0-Douc9EZGrYyHSd1jwiv2c80IfbBe7cdfmbiekw0NGKZHh_Q3yKj7c8mo/s1600/IMG_7381.JPG" height="400" width="400"></a></div>
<br>
Can I tell you how much I geeked out when I discovered the Etruscan font? For those of you who aren't lucky enough to have a close friend obsessed with the Etruscans, I'm here to tell you their language reads right to left.<br>
<br>
Most of the shower games were Etruscan-themed as well, but I think the <i>piece de resistance</i> was the cupcakes decorated with fondant bronze hand mirrors. These beauties, which were as delicious as they were adorable, were made by the uber-talented Alexandra of<a href="http://cupcakesinrome.com/" target="_blank"> Cupcakes in Rome</a>. I made the red currant scones you see on the left. Also very yummy, if not quite so pretty. The recipe for those came courtesy of my fellow Rome blogger, the fabulous Trisha Thomas, aka <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a>.<br>
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<br>
Later that same day, I had the pleasure of participating in a segment that will be aired on the Travel Channel later this year. The hour-long feature on Rome is part of a several-part series on some of the world's greatest cities. The series is called Metropolis and should air sometime in June.<br>
<br>
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The segment I was featured in was on the art of aperitivo in a glorious piazza. Here I am with three friends enjoying Aperol Spritz in Piazza di Pietra at one of my favorite spots in the city, <a href="http://www.salotto42.it/" target="_blank">Salotto 42</a>. I'll be sure to let you know when it airs so you can hear me trying not to embarrass myself on camera.<br>
<br>
Aside from these fun events, what I really dedicated myself to during the month of November 2014 was something called National Novel Writing Month, or NaNoWriMo, as its participants affectionately call it. If you've ever dreamed of writing a book, but just can't seem to find the discipline to sit down and do it, <a href="http://nanowrimo.org/" target="_blank">NaNoWriMo </a>is for you. The idea is, you and literally hundreds of thousands of other writers around the world make a commitment to write a 50,000-word novel in just one month, the month of November. That works out to 1667 words per day if you manage to write every day. I didn't start out too strong, so felt like I was constantly playing catch up. But I eventually got into the groove, and seeing the number of words I needed to write to stay on track shrink every single day was enough impetus to force myself out of bed well before six am most days to get my writing in before heading to work.<br>
<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfGFzWsZJgEppqQ0r00vdEgNLgvqwk3_TxG1QgeTL6Ert1YGOsj4LvcIEfVld3cPge6fYUIq3ehSN2BHxLNr2V2ZrnA3d1NcXBp8j6-ecautqKqAea90s2hyphenhyphenoVXIP8g0-CHvyP8-3Yxs/s1600/IMG_7477.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfGFzWsZJgEppqQ0r00vdEgNLgvqwk3_TxG1QgeTL6Ert1YGOsj4LvcIEfVld3cPge6fYUIq3ehSN2BHxLNr2V2ZrnA3d1NcXBp8j6-ecautqKqAea90s2hyphenhyphenoVXIP8g0-CHvyP8-3Yxs/s1600/IMG_7477.PNG" height="320" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I earned this badge with early mornings and lots of Earl Grey.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
It was an exhausting month, and I'm not one who functions well on too little sleep, but it was worth it when, by November 30th, I had an (incredibly rough, aka nearly unreadable) first draft of my second novel. Yes, that's right, my second. My first novel took a great deal longer than 30 days to write. I'm actually not sure if I've mentioned it on the blog before, but I wrote an art mystery for young readers that takes place in Rome (where else?). It's for the Middle Grade age group, which is roughly between 9 and 12, give or take a year on each end. I'll leave the details of the book for a future post, but I will confess that I have been working on this labor of love on and off for the past five years. And while, no, I didn't write the first draft in a month (closer to a year, actually), the revision process was a good four times longer. No one warned me that writing the first draft of a book is the easy part! It's the (seemingly endless) revisions which test a writer's mettle and perseverance.<br>
<br>
But persevere I did, and by the summer of 2014, I finally had what I believed to be a draft that was in good enough shape to send out into the world. I started querying literary agents last summer. After several months of this disheartening process (which tests a writer's perseverance even more than revising, I'd wager) without any offers, I took a break from querying to participate in NaNoWriMo. It was just what I needed to get my creative juices flowing again after months of stagnation and rejection letters. I dove back into querying in December, and that brings me to my next big accomplishment of the winter, which happened just after the New Year. Excuse the all-caps but I can't help shouting:<br>
<br>
I GOT AN AGENT!!!<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZhUfB1BYlL9lNgCRKWvCf85wf-tQqvbetgg5sFfo-oQbSg33dP53jt1zi1XlxkjZGan6OHegH_fmnvd-qaQLMoutH8filWLf2DPiI2FH6e2m91CXvXS7h1f6axuJ8aAzPz8J5fND4EM/s1600/3190312620_aff652b894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZhUfB1BYlL9lNgCRKWvCf85wf-tQqvbetgg5sFfo-oQbSg33dP53jt1zi1XlxkjZGan6OHegH_fmnvd-qaQLMoutH8filWLf2DPiI2FH6e2m91CXvXS7h1f6axuJ8aAzPz8J5fND4EM/s1600/3190312620_aff652b894.jpg" height="304" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/plasticcandy/3190312620/" target="_blank"><i>source</i></a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
For any other writers out there, or for actors, performers, and musicians too, you know what a life-changing accomplishment this is. In a writer's case, signing with a successful agent is probably the most important step in their career, maybe even more significant that that elusive first book deal.<br>
And mine is not just any agent, but one of the best in the business, the legendary <a href="http://www.tridentmediagroup.com/agents/john-silbersack" target="_blank">John Silbersack</a> of Trident Media Group. I am so incredibly honored and thrilled to have him representing my work that it's honestly hard to put it into words (a worrying sign for a writer!). Suffice it to say, there are a lot of happy dances going on in my apartment these days.<br>
<br>
As I expected, my agent (my heart still does a mini-swoon when I write the words "my agent") had a long list of revisions for me, and I have dived head-first into those. I've given myself the Ides of March as a deadline, I spend all weekend, every weekend chained to my desk attempting to wrestle what I thought was a final draft into an even final-er draft. I hope that this explains why, although one of my only New Year's resolutions of 2015 was to WRITE A BLOGPOST AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK, it's already the 20th of February and I'm just finally getting around to my first post of the year. Mea culpa!<br>
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<br>
The other thing that has been taking up a lot of time, but in a very enjoyable way, is my podcast, <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/" target="_blank"><i>The BitterSweet Life</i></a>. It's hosted by myself and the amazing radio producer extraordinaire, Katy Sewall, who just happens to be one of my closest and oldest friends in the world. When she moved to Rome last year, we decided to do a podcast all about what it's like to be an expat, either for the long-term or the short-term. It's casual, light-hearted, and most of all, non-scripted. We chat about lots of different topics that expats encounter such as <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-4-homesick/" target="_blank">homesickness</a>, <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-2-language/" target="_blank">foreign language</a>, <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-6-overstaying/" target="_blank">visa problems</a>,<a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-14-integration/" target="_blank"> integrating</a>, <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-36-alien/" target="_blank">becoming alienated from your native culture</a>, and <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-5-dating/" target="_blank">dating the locals</a>. Oh, and our mutual obsession with <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-42-caravaggio-part-1/" target="_blank">Caravaggio</a>, which is slightly off topic, but we don't care.<br>
<br>
We finally started a Twitter account, <a href="https://twitter.com/bittersweetpod" target="_blank">@BitterSweetPod</a>, so be sure to follow us there if you want to be kept up to date with new episodes. Katy, who is currently back in Seattle, recently posted a photo from a recent interview she did that has somehow taken Twitter by storm. Katy interviewed a little girl earlier this week who loves and feeds crows. They bring her shiny gifts in return and this is her collection.<br>
<br>
Here's the original tweet:<br>
<br>
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" lang="en">
Interviewed a little girl this morning that feeds crows and they bring her gifts in return. Here's her collection. <a href="http://t.co/kqNrlAa4Ie">pic.twitter.com/kqNrlAa4Ie</a><br>
— The BitterSweet Life (@BitterSweetPod) <a href="https://twitter.com/BitterSweetPod/status/567473332665073664">February 16, 2015</a></blockquote>
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.twitter.com/widgets.js"></script>
<script aria-haspopup="true" class="goog-spellcheck-word" id=":1l.36" role="menuitem" span="" style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" tabindex="-1">async</span> <span aria-haspopup="true" role="menuitem" tabindex="-1" id=":1l.37" style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">src</span>="//platform.twitter.com/widgets.<span aria-haspopup="true" role="menuitem" tabindex="-1" id=":1l.38" style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">js</span>" <span aria-haspopup="true" role="menuitem" tabindex="-1" id=":1l.39" style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">charset</span>="<span aria-haspopup="true" role="menuitem" tabindex="-1" id=":1l.40" style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% yellow;" class="goog-spellcheck-word">utf</span>-8"></script>When Katy posted the photo three or four days ago, I thought it
was wonderful, but I had no idea it would go viral. And viral it has
gone, with over 4600 retweets, 4800 favorites, and hundreds of comments
to date. Not bad for an account that had (at the time) just 100
followers. People across the world are so moved by this story, not to
mention an entire sub-culture of people out there who are absolutely
passionate about crows! Who knew? I'm starting to develop a soft spot
for them myself!<br>
<br>
My last big project of the winter is my collaboration with an awesome new app called <a href="https://voicemap.me/" target="_blank">VoiceMap</a>. If you love to dig deep when you travel but don't always have the time or money to hire a private <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/p/tours.html" target="_blank">tour guide</a>, this app will make you squeal with glee. The app is the brainchild of some very enterprising and creative people down in South Africa. The idea is that storytellers in cities around the world take listeners on a tour of a neighborhood by way of a smartphone. If you're the listener, all you have to do is walk where the storyteller indicates, and listen to him or her bring the city to life right in front of your eyes.<br>
<br>
This video explains the project better than I could:<br>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://ytimg.googleusercontent.com/vi/tyAY4geKALk/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/tyAY4geKALk?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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If you haven't guessed already, I am narrating a walking tour of Rome's <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2010/07/siamo-romane-trasteverine.html" target="_blank">Trastevere neighborhood</a>.
It is exciting to be a part of a project that I find so meaningful and
useful at the same time, although my lack of technical skills has slowed
me down more than once, and it's taking me a bit longer than I had
expected! I will report back as soon as my walk is ready. I hope you
will download it and let me guide you through this neighborhood I adore
the next time you're in Rome. <br>
<br>
If I have learned anything in these last four months is that synchronicity is real, and that working on projects that push you in the direction of your dreams bring more and more opportunities and amazing people into your path. Leaving<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/" target="_blank"> <i>The Pines of Rome</i></a> blog out of this equation just isn't acceptable to me anymore. I'm lucky enough that all my passions intermingle in such a beautiful way, each one inspiring another. So I'm going on the record and making a commitment to post once a week from here on out. The posts will probably be shorter than usual, simply out of necessity, but since I'm not convinced anyone reads through to the end of my novel-length posts anyway, that might be a good thing for all concerned!<br><br>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>All photos by author except where indicated</i></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-42374292603560812412014-10-31T12:12:00.000+01:002014-10-31T12:12:27.097+01:0010 Spookiest Places in Rome
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Halloween is here! What better way to celebrate All Hallow's Eve, the night that spirits freely roam the earth, than with a tour of Rome's most sinister sites?<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Those
Artful Bones</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">For lovers of the macabre, there’s no more deliciously creepy place in Rome than the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Museum
and Crypt of the Capuchins</b>, where the skeletons of more than 4000 monks
have been used as eerie decoration. Hipbones become moldings, chandeliers
dangle with leg and arm bones, and vertebrae make intricate cornices. In the
last room, over a pile of bones and three reassembled skeletons sporting the
famous Capuchin hood, an ominous sign reads, “</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">What you are we once were; what we are
you will become.”</span><span lang="EN-US"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Via
Veneto, 27.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLJpbq9UIz02wTwszKqH3CHR_9y1sEVVphOx9Qpj9MwaBfr6lBcJJjhT0Ekg2Jnu8XMekHIdGWqSlJNApyPo702FRTdB52ZetmNbWOaoZpG5FZn2_mLdgPGJQCP1ESFJ9blw6WcjmEOA/s1600/Capuchin+Crypt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLJpbq9UIz02wTwszKqH3CHR_9y1sEVVphOx9Qpj9MwaBfr6lBcJJjhT0Ekg2Jnu8XMekHIdGWqSlJNApyPo702FRTdB52ZetmNbWOaoZpG5FZn2_mLdgPGJQCP1ESFJ9blw6WcjmEOA/s1600/Capuchin+Crypt.png" height="283" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crypt of the Capuchin Monks, Santa Maria della Concezione</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlaz-_oe4cTmBRMDbnJ_cysviOBOUyU44WDLAa_DeQq5u55ZTTpog5ipQay4SxyiNnAgaI1SmT4KwS0Yu1sxdJS1NsYj_dNzjdDeF3KqCStgeR31q1FWRT3Go-kaKHtP_t4DppkoZLBE/s1600/Crypt+of+the+Capuchins+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlaz-_oe4cTmBRMDbnJ_cysviOBOUyU44WDLAa_DeQq5u55ZTTpog5ipQay4SxyiNnAgaI1SmT4KwS0Yu1sxdJS1NsYj_dNzjdDeF3KqCStgeR31q1FWRT3Go-kaKHtP_t4DppkoZLBE/s1600/Crypt+of+the+Capuchins+1.jpg" height="270" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crypt of the Capuchin Monks, Santa Maria della Concezione [<a href="http://boingboing.net/2009/08/10/great-caesars-ghost.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Messages
from Beyond the Grave</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">A tiny church in Prati has found a way to
communicate with souls suffering in purgatory, and their tiny annexed museum has
proof. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Museum of Souls in Purgatory</b>
displays fingerprints burned into a prayer book, a charred handprint on a
wooden table, clothes marked with mysterious signs, and other creepy evidence that heaven’s unpleasant waiting room
might actually exist. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Lungotevere Prati,
12.</b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuPyfuf9SeYpurjPmoMm9_uYELQKTI2JEiPoh27eeHEKJ0_tAthViMTxZo5JjTXoNSAIe-L1yqNxCSrug1oC16BjcI7bshzto_Egljo-BhUCIxEN1JEp94ekCZ21OhAXXJjjdoAmR8yzk/s1600/thumbnail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuPyfuf9SeYpurjPmoMm9_uYELQKTI2JEiPoh27eeHEKJ0_tAthViMTxZo5JjTXoNSAIe-L1yqNxCSrug1oC16BjcI7bshzto_Egljo-BhUCIxEN1JEp94ekCZ21OhAXXJjjdoAmR8yzk/s1600/thumbnail.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fingerprints burned onto a prayer book, Museo delle Anime in Purgatorio [<a href="http://www.ajuaa.com/news/laotradimension/43514-Huellas-Fuego-Mensajes-Del-Purgatorio.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL45zttBRQjc-7p2tvorgSxulK8KaXS9tVFs82PKNWhT0NaT-v82goc5DSsdYJrtDce6nAwOMpYsMollMdnzn30jyPbdLI3fg608a4MMlEY6XtLUa8uOcDaRcmCDG14AWwAdyUYjWunFA/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL45zttBRQjc-7p2tvorgSxulK8KaXS9tVFs82PKNWhT0NaT-v82goc5DSsdYJrtDce6nAwOMpYsMollMdnzn30jyPbdLI3fg608a4MMlEY6XtLUa8uOcDaRcmCDG14AWwAdyUYjWunFA/s1600/1.jpg" height="242" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handprint burned onto wood, Museo delle Anime in Purgatorio [<a href="https://forum.termometropolitico.it/225605-impronte-di-fuoco-ovvero-il-museo-delle-anime-del-purgatorio.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Dungeons
and Death</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Although today <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Castel Sant’Angelo</b> is a magnificent palace and a fascinating
museum, it wasn’t always so. Up to the late 19<sup>th</sup> century, the
dungeons of the castle were used as the papal prisons, and more often than not, once you went in, you rarely came out again, unless to mount the scaffold. Famous prisoners have included Benvenuto
Cellini, Giordano Bruno, and Galileo. The bridge right outside, with its copies of Bernini angels, may
look uplifting, but it was here that countless public executions took place, including
the infamous decapitation of 22-year-old Beatrice Cenci in 1599. Her ghost is said to walk the bridge every September 11th, the anniversary of her death, with her severed head in her hand. The bridge was also the
site of a stampede during the Jubilee of 1450, when more than 200 people were
trampled to death or drowned. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Lungotevere
Castello, 50.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaWN355pMGLqRDv5d91STHQkdkSg65ql1yByDHIsASAu8wWizdno6Ue5eRKwSFHR_X0H3twRcVVl0TKVtqtFBVcuM1BJYkDzAXklrf9QuRjeIoK14R2tKxO1xQG2uzvRe3ERWplrgN5Iw/s1600/tumblr_m3sg7adEfi1qa1ulo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaWN355pMGLqRDv5d91STHQkdkSg65ql1yByDHIsASAu8wWizdno6Ue5eRKwSFHR_X0H3twRcVVl0TKVtqtFBVcuM1BJYkDzAXklrf9QuRjeIoK14R2tKxO1xQG2uzvRe3ERWplrgN5Iw/s1600/tumblr_m3sg7adEfi1qa1ulo.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passageway leading to the dungeons of Castel Sant'Angelo [<a href="http://gogengo.tumblr.com/post/23902841934/castelsantangeloromaitalia" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj62xhtu0bLZq0VK9dzntM7boMJ7mYdY3XYXJw3M1Y-wf6YOo3F2eaXa_vpE14ARJIdZE8h-iD5e75xNDSAn1gCxvqJq78JF0DAJ8VUx26M1q8S_sIy6ZAgr229aIKGy4BTCyFoynKD91I/s1600/Ponte+degli+Angeli,+by+Fabiana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj62xhtu0bLZq0VK9dzntM7boMJ7mYdY3XYXJw3M1Y-wf6YOo3F2eaXa_vpE14ARJIdZE8h-iD5e75xNDSAn1gCxvqJq78JF0DAJ8VUx26M1q8S_sIy6ZAgr229aIKGy4BTCyFoynKD91I/s1600/Ponte+degli+Angeli,+by+Fabiana.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angel Statue (copy after Bernini), Bridge of the Angels,
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridge of the Angels, Rome <span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: IT; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">© Kathleen Waters</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">RIP
John Doe</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">In Renaissance Rome, murder was practically
considered a sport, and bodies floating in the Tiber were far from rare. From
its convenient position just a few steps from the riverbanks, the church of <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Santa Maria dell’Orazione e Morte</b> would
fish the bodies out of the river, stack them in the cellar, and bury any that
went unclaimed. The church is decorated with ghoulish images and boasts a cross
made of skulls. A chilling sign on the door reads, “Today for me, tomorrow for
you.” <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Via Giulia, 262.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3bzPKr_19A0YYvSKp-GbkMY8tT0rXyeY6R3eiWQUGQkOxMzHyYwL0jqj_9L0DrXe5_eKV4LPALzlkd_ksoL-xSvzFzsOPhYRe711Ft0NIoyxtI7mQaxqXbPEfxaPBj-9KOkqYCU7hvMc/s1600/Santa+Maria+dell'Orazione+e+Morte,+by+Toni+Brugue%CC%81s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3bzPKr_19A0YYvSKp-GbkMY8tT0rXyeY6R3eiWQUGQkOxMzHyYwL0jqj_9L0DrXe5_eKV4LPALzlkd_ksoL-xSvzFzsOPhYRe711Ft0NIoyxtI7mQaxqXbPEfxaPBj-9KOkqYCU7hvMc/s1600/Santa+Maria+dell'Orazione%2Be%2BMorte%2C%2Bby%2BToni%2BBrugue%CC%81s.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decoration on the doorway of Santa Maria dell'Orazione e della Morte @Toni Bruguès</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6j_Qtwjys8r3FTFRrqZdd3J1BnwE2NrTnXKSBBciy2nZFcco2j1aQXXiL8AR84OjcHhD8NQwXnuDy1e2qRIWkp5f267QfnWc0O_DG7nuKfhmijYWITKe2UeunZsz2FCnFoALAPJ6tcc/s1600/Santa+Maria+dell'Orazione+e+Morte,+by+Verbunkos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6j_Qtwjys8r3FTFRrqZdd3J1BnwE2NrTnXKSBBciy2nZFcco2j1aQXXiL8AR84OjcHhD8NQwXnuDy1e2qRIWkp5f267QfnWc0O_DG7nuKfhmijYWITKe2UeunZsz2FCnFoALAPJ6tcc/s1600/Santa+Maria+dell'Orazione%2Be%2BMorte%2C%2Bby%2BVerbunkos.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Me today; you tomorrow" inscription outside Santa Maria dell'Orazione e della Morte © Tiffany Parks</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Death’s
Portal</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">St. Peter’s Basilica has five sets of
Bronze Doors, the most noted being the Holy Doors (open only on occasion of a
Holy Year) and the massive central Filarete doors, the only set original to the
Constantine Basilica. Less well-known, but no less intriguing are the Doors of
Death, to the far left of the portico, used as the exit for funeral
processions. Cast in the 1960s by Giacomo Manzù, the doors feature morbid
scenes of crucifixions, hangings, and other martyrdoms, as well as the heads of
vultures looking out ominously.<b> </b>When I used to give tours of St. Peter's basilica, I refused to walk through these ones, even though they are one of the two main exits.<b> Piazza San Pietro.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_EYZj_GQUY8NKOfLX_Z1gc5il3-YzJ7_909PBUlSdQVWgoOsf4hE0NL08EOvBqyyoz0Y9V6s31XzkMPLUg7PKldjZ4K3x9KKl7_C1armG_pIG9sPvt3421LoElv5YODbwh7lrh_TGm8/s1600/Basilica+S.+Pietro+DSC_8693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_EYZj_GQUY8NKOfLX_Z1gc5il3-YzJ7_909PBUlSdQVWgoOsf4hE0NL08EOvBqyyoz0Y9V6s31XzkMPLUg7PKldjZ4K3x9KKl7_C1armG_pIG9sPvt3421LoElv5YODbwh7lrh_TGm8/s1600/Basilica+S.+Pietro+DSC_8693.jpg" height="400" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left "Door of Death," Giacomo Manzù [<a href="http://romapedia.blogspot.it/2013/10/basilica-of-st-peter-first-part_3.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhDVTR09gpSW0mM_G4Zjlp877S3PiWZdM8xgwWC9OOHi6TcWhzvR-RhE_awtIHXRs5MYUOf_kXaIdY0XbOpDfYpgHRPQZ0pBtQS8tixKUTta5xXKkp0cueAIVAurLzV30QSg2DjRnL584/s1600/Porta-della-Morte-Vaticano-1952-64.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhDVTR09gpSW0mM_G4Zjlp877S3PiWZdM8xgwWC9OOHi6TcWhzvR-RhE_awtIHXRs5MYUOf_kXaIdY0XbOpDfYpgHRPQZ0pBtQS8tixKUTta5xXKkp0cueAIVAurLzV30QSg2DjRnL584/s1600/Porta-della-Morte-Vaticano-1952-64.jpg" height="400" width="281" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of "Doors of Death," Giacomo Manzù [<a href="http://www.deodato-arte.it/biografie/giacomo-manzu/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><b>The Art of Torture</b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">If you find torture even creepier than death (and let's face it, who doesn't?), make a timely visit to Rome's <b>Museum of Criminology</b>. Learn about medieval torture techniques and see many of the gruesome devices used to elicit "confessions". Perhaps the most disturbing thing about this place is realizing some of these torture techniques were used until the 20th century. This museum is not for the faint of heart, especially if you've got a good imagination. <b>Via del Gonfalone, 29.</b> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh28gA1HQEoztvQWcY0xs_oYb-LpncxemuNDLrSbVGN_M3lW9uHztldlhwDnBA92JTlg5NBOVWy_p7KImPSQ0J3Dr3nMqiDG9xTJanhVVnokrh34w6uzmPYUOR4PqdDAbL2yLlLNzsjlbk/s1600/07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh28gA1HQEoztvQWcY0xs_oYb-LpncxemuNDLrSbVGN_M3lW9uHztldlhwDnBA92JTlg5NBOVWy_p7KImPSQ0J3Dr3nMqiDG9xTJanhVVnokrh34w6uzmPYUOR4PqdDAbL2yLlLNzsjlbk/s1600/07.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screw chair (reproduction), Museo di Criminologia, Rome [<a href="http://www.museocriminologico.it/index.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEG7ViCSows6mwqE-wqnF7uJZ_t-VE-wAuKxWWsQmfG2243-3ir0uC-RWYioibw_HxtR670y1we_jwuuzvpC3v4Jru-5t-kkaYEKn3mJ1gWO4DFkMJaBk_AMen6VFzDhOaTohxOETS-k/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEG7ViCSows6mwqE-wqnF7uJZ_t-VE-wAuKxWWsQmfG2243-3ir0uC-RWYioibw_HxtR670y1we_jwuuzvpC3v4Jru-5t-kkaYEKn3mJ1gWO4DFkMJaBk_AMen6VFzDhOaTohxOETS-k/s1600/18.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female skeleton discovered shacked in Poggio Catino in the 1930s, Museo di Criminologia, Rome. [<a href="http://www.museocriminologico.it/index.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6aO9Rz6hgXtaA4K_tY5Ym9WjGGQ-Ypeau3M-MyqyaFFykXcabbSiJfiFwJxu2IsiNbTpGj939nl41S_j6Gh9RRTVYkVOVnJC6Be-bCTJle9JwGeiTzIegNwLE8PX0EosyAkx8M1nvi8/s1600/20a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6aO9Rz6hgXtaA4K_tY5Ym9WjGGQ-Ypeau3M-MyqyaFFykXcabbSiJfiFwJxu2IsiNbTpGj939nl41S_j6Gh9RRTVYkVOVnJC6Be-bCTJle9JwGeiTzIegNwLE8PX0EosyAkx8M1nvi8/s1600/20a.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Human-shaped cage, discovered with real skeleton, Museo di Criminologia, Rome [<a href="http://www.museocriminologico.it/index.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><b>Doctors of Death</b></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">If the image of an old abandoned hospital or insane asylum conjures up your worst nightmares, this is the place for you! Even the name of it is enough to make a grown man squirm. <b>The National Museum of Sanitary Art</b> is one place that will make you glad to be living (and getting sick) in the 21st century. Located in a wing of a hospital founded in the 1400s, this museum displays such unappetizing objects as pickled fetuses, child skeletons, and many, many more atrocious sights.<b> Lungotevere in Sassia.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9SF8eXcMod9RPpyNL4ETEiNQP6lRCQDc899_-uYWWvuoBtY_CNotoQF1j6nQzI7YdO7C6ek1qQUZclrlKIk3EmtuoLuJ5Z8F2PXx1fkvG3hT9XAVaLkxcGD78l4LKuB1HaE-ROMxS50/s1600/20130222_114458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9SF8eXcMod9RPpyNL4ETEiNQP6lRCQDc899_-uYWWvuoBtY_CNotoQF1j6nQzI7YdO7C6ek1qQUZclrlKIk3EmtuoLuJ5Z8F2PXx1fkvG3hT9XAVaLkxcGD78l4LKuB1HaE-ROMxS50/s1600/20130222_114458.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exhibit at Museo dell'Arte Sanitaria, Rome [<a href="http://magicidintorni.wordpress.com/tag/cose-da-vedere-a-roma/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh-87GOpTxta0BFrsuY0BF4qrkMdWhfjwJUNccHclS3Vwxb1FlWFCPlT743SusRkCC7XpZjQWz88snpTKfoWqCrAQQgvbZ1FjUtxsG8Dr16cUPvs7UzpajoUyLDLuCkBsq5CdzbYVSLSM/s1600/img_3233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh-87GOpTxta0BFrsuY0BF4qrkMdWhfjwJUNccHclS3Vwxb1FlWFCPlT743SusRkCC7XpZjQWz88snpTKfoWqCrAQQgvbZ1FjUtxsG8Dr16cUPvs7UzpajoUyLDLuCkBsq5CdzbYVSLSM/s1600/img_3233.jpg" height="400" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exhibit of child skeletons, Museo dell'Arte Sanitaria, Roma [<a href="http://magicidintorni.wordpress.com/tag/cose-da-vedere-a-roma/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<b>Death Lives Here</b><br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Miles and miles of dimly lit, underground burial chambers? I think that would qualify as spooky. Perhaps the most terrifying thing about the <b>Catacombs</b> (besides the fact that thousands of souls were buried here, some of whom suffered horrifically violent deaths) is knowing that one wrong turn could lead you into utter darkness and you could easily end up lost for days in the maze of narrow death-soaked passageways, as <a href="http://www.foxnews.com/world/2011/07/29/three-youth-rescued-from-french-catacombs/" target="_blank">happened to a few French kids in the Paris catacombs</a> a few years ago. There are many (some say upwards of 40) Catacomb sites in Rome. The most popular is probably The Catacombs of San Callisto, <b>Via Appia Antica, 110</b>.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catacombs of San Callisto, Rome [<a href="http://www.panoramio.com/photo/10572968" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catacombs of San Callisto, Rome [<a href="https://www.travelblog.org/Photos/5706609" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Death
is in the Air</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">As the site of the brutal deaths of an
estimated 700,000 people, is it any wonder the <b>Colosseum</b> is considered one of
the most haunted places in the world? In the Middle Ages it was believed to be
a gathering place for souls at unrest, and as late as the early 20<sup>th</sup>
century, it was thought that the noxious fumes of the countless murders that
took place here could be fatal to anyone who breathed them, particularly at
night. Such was the fate of Henry James’ heroine Daisy Miller, whose nighttime
visit to the Colosseum proved fatal.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colosseum by Night [<a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Colosseum_at_night_-_wide_angle.JPG" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">On
Hallowed Ground</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Although it is a cemetery, I'm not sure this site can really be described as spooky. In fact, it could just as easily be included in a list of the 10 Most Beautiful Places in Rome. Dubbed by Oscar Wilde “the holiest place in
Rome,” the exquisite <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Non-Catholic Cemetery</b>
is reserved for Rome’s Protestant, Orthodox, Jewish, and otherwise non-Christian dead,
and is famously the resting place of John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley, and Goethe’s
only son. With its view of the ancient Pyramid of Cestius, towering cypress
trees, and tombstones and mausoleums that are veritable works of art, this
might just be the most enchanting cemetery in the world. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Via Caio Cestio, 6.</b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Non-Catholic Cemetery, Rome @Rmishka Singh</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Non-Catholic Cemetery, Rome @Rmishka Singh</td></tr>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-21992246307972417232014-10-04T11:55:00.002+02:002014-10-04T11:55:20.589+02:00Rome's Artistic Treasures .... Hidden in Banks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dome of the chapel of Palazzo del Monte di Pietà</td></tr>
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As if Rome didn't possess enough spectacular sights to satisfy the greedy eyes of her art-loving visitors and residents, today we'll get a chance to see even more, like the eye-popping gold-leaf and stuccoed chapel at <b>Palazzo del Monte di Pietà</b> above, near Campo de' Fiori.<br />
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Since even the wealthiest of Rome's old noble families can no longer afford the upkeep on their ancestral palaces, the ones that haven't been turned into museums, embassies, or cultural associations, are mostly in the hands of the banks. While I cringe to think that there are so many works of art hidden away and out of sight for the average Roman, at least one day a year, we get a chance to see them. The event is called <a href="http://palazzi.abi.it/" target="_blank"><b>Invito a Palazzo</b></a>, and it's not just happening in Rome. All across the Italian peninsula financial institutions are opening their doors to reveal their treasures today, <b>4 October 2014</b>, and the best part is, it's free!<br />
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One measly day a year is a pittance, but I don't know about you, I'll take what I can get. I have participated in Invito a Palazzo in previous years, and one of the most spectacular Roman institutions participating has its headquarters in<b> Palazzo Altieri</b> near the Chiesa del Gesù. This baroque wonder, closed to the public 364 days a year, is packed to the gills with glorious frescoes, paintings, and tapestries by the likes of Guido Reni, Carlo Maratta, Giulio Romano, Domenico Maria Canuti, Domenichino, Paolo Veronese, Coreggio, and many more.<br /><br />
If you only have time to visit one site today, this should be it!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Allegory of Mercy</i>, Carlo Maratta, Palazzo Altieri</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pompeian Salon, Palazzo Altieri</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Apotheosis of Romulus</i>, Domenico Maria Canuti, Palazzo Altieri</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palazzo Altieri</td></tr>
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Also opening its doors today is<b> Palazzo de Carolis</b> on Via del Corso. This early-18th-century palace features a gorgeous oval spiral staircase by Alessandro Specchi (of Spanish Steps fame), very similar to (and possibly inspired by) Borromini's staircase at Palazzo Barberini.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spiral staircase by Alessandro Specchi, Palazzo de Carolis</td></tr>
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<b>Palazzo Ronadanini</b>, near the Pantheon, will also be open to visitors. The most noteworthy aspect of this palace is the sublime courtyard, decorated with ancient busts and sculptures, as well as intricate stucco and bas-relief details. Also on display are the sumptuously appointed rooms of the <i>piano nobile</i>, that some lucky bankers out there get to use as their conference rooms.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo1z8MPAtbTKyTKihgQYv3k8PQzTnLNvtAq0ECU_X5fBbsYrh9huCETAyLg3NXcmwV2z6nDpHMty5EcU2Dris2bDTze_i6K91SK7DS8d0dBzuAZKKaHBhimeMHMQnlF3vCkT9aDy-Zf0U/s1600/LAZIO,+Roma,+Palazzo+Rondinini,+Banca+Monte+dei+Paschi+di+Siena.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo1z8MPAtbTKyTKihgQYv3k8PQzTnLNvtAq0ECU_X5fBbsYrh9huCETAyLg3NXcmwV2z6nDpHMty5EcU2Dris2bDTze_i6K91SK7DS8d0dBzuAZKKaHBhimeMHMQnlF3vCkT9aDy-Zf0U/s1600/LAZIO,+Roma,+Palazzo+Rondinini,+Banca+Monte+dei+Paschi+di+Siena.jpg" height="640" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard of Palazzo Rondanini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I will be visiting the Banca di Sassari, which occupies the site of a converted monastery of <b>Santa Susanna</b> <b>Church</b> (coincidentally the American national church in Rome), not far from Piazza della Repubblica.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9UKGYzGzvr9ip4gfiRTr8dJVu90z49xenvLWDhOgv9N6lp6FYj518r-3MeTLwiDiay8h5-xiNy2-FsvgKr6InhU_m7YRNGvImLuJgeX8Ja1TY9UJDVzcseheojrlt1CKffBeAnfY2la0/s1600/LAZIO,+Roma,+Filiale,+Banca+di+Sassari+1.JPG" height="266" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sardinian Tapestries (Banca di Sassari)</td></tr>
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In addition to a collection of Sardinian tapestries above (who knew the Sardinians made tapestries?), visitors will be able to visit the underground Roman <i>domus</i> upon which the monastery was built, a site that has only recently been excavated.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD0mXUq4Sp0EOL468HOWbrHgOh8OMLeVAnTgjn735cbiQLd1cRFs_cpsq3zY1mRr9RNWtx_UdYj9tL_YdQA1hjX0pOxaxi12uqWtICd7RRK0VafK6fUdWd4vVTDXmHc3K74qMvQSLbfiE/s1600/LAZIO,+Roma,+Filiale,+Banca+di+Sassari+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD0mXUq4Sp0EOL468HOWbrHgOh8OMLeVAnTgjn735cbiQLd1cRFs_cpsq3zY1mRr9RNWtx_UdYj9tL_YdQA1hjX0pOxaxi12uqWtICd7RRK0VafK6fUdWd4vVTDXmHc3K74qMvQSLbfiE/s1600/LAZIO,+Roma,+Filiale,+Banca+di+Sassari+2.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman<i> domus</i> under the Monastery of Santa Susanna (Banca di Sassari)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If this event sounds like your cup of tea, hurry up, it's only on today! You can find more info <a href="http://palazzi.abi.it/" target="_blank">here</a>. </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>All images provided courtesy of <a href="http://www.beniculturali.it/mibac/export/MiBAC/index.html#&panel1-2" target="_blank">MiBACT</a></i></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-58691895753217165152014-08-19T00:00:00.000+02:002014-08-19T07:37:29.795+02:00Augustus's Rome, 2000 Years Later<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modern bronze copy of the Augustus of Prima Porta, Via dei Fori Imperiali, <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">I love anniversaries and meaningful dates, and this year has been full of them. Back in February we
commemorated the 450<sup>th</sup> anniversary of the death of the great
Michelangelo, in April we celebrated the 450<sup>th</sup> birthday of
Shakespeare and remembered the 300<sup>th</sup> anniversary of the passing of
El Greco. This year has also seen important anniversaries of events that have
changed history, from the toppling of the Berlin Wall (25 years ago), to the passing
of the Civil Rights Act (50 years ago), to D-Day (70 years ago), to the opening
of the Panama Canal and onset of World War One (both 100 years ago).</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">But the most awe-inspiring and
moment-of-silence-worthy of all, particularly for those of us who love big,
round numbers (and happen to live and breathe ancient Roman history), is the
2000<sup>th</sup> anniversary of the death of Emperor Augustus.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7s-fvWrAHxEY1MxYWYggkpIatRycX-yp632EYzqn5bbcvmuy-VVpZQUo4CYYdj5iAMUOdX-ps4oTTEsK2fVBV2noOC7BzSdnwfICO5qRgfQNqjrdU-Ls-5VqGMGWYMCGLV56ZIt5J6mY/s1600/1-Statua-di-Augusto-part-Palazzo-Massimo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7s-fvWrAHxEY1MxYWYggkpIatRycX-yp632EYzqn5bbcvmuy-VVpZQUo4CYYdj5iAMUOdX-ps4oTTEsK2fVBV2noOC7BzSdnwfICO5qRgfQNqjrdU-Ls-5VqGMGWYMCGLV56ZIt5J6mY/s1600/1-Statua-di-Augusto-part-Palazzo-Massimo.jpg" height="286" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the Augustus of Labicana, Museo Nazionale Romano a Palazzo Massimo (<a href="http://www.artslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/1-Statua-di-Augusto-part-Palazzo-Massimo.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Exactly </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">2000 years
ago today, on 19 August A.D. 14, Emperor Augustus, born Gaius Octavius and the
first emperor of Rome, breathed his last. Throughout his long life, Octavius
wore many hats, and carried many titles. He was known as Princeps (the “first”
citizen of Rome), Divi Filius (the son of the divine, in reference to his
great-uncle and adopted father, the deified Julius Caesar), Augustus
(illustrious one), Pater Patriae (father of his country), and, of course,
Caesar, a family name that would eventually become synonymous with the term
“emperor.” His official roles were just as varied, from Consul (Rome’s highest
elected office) to Pontifex Maximus (high priest) and eventually Imperator
(military commander).</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">During his 41-year reign (the
longest of any Roman emperor), Augustus built enduring monuments, developed the
city’s infrastructure, and established the Pax Romana, the empire’s most
enduring period of peace. If you’re in Rome today and have nothing more
important to do (and really, in the middle of August, what else could you
possibly have to do?), I suggest commemorating the extraordinary man’s death
with a tour of his greatest monuments and portraits. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfettCic-iH2q6hQ9nBZgpREL7QsEyDUfcWiMTS6Etmv9R-QRSpIZ-Nk3VxA3Hrx5wcn8HhYGVrBXv3VUoG_Pc1CM_kuHbiWI4qIaoVqMKVanjRZxXZjL31C26N6uPbolA_QnjbVYYZPU/s1600/work_175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfettCic-iH2q6hQ9nBZgpREL7QsEyDUfcWiMTS6Etmv9R-QRSpIZ-Nk3VxA3Hrx5wcn8HhYGVrBXv3VUoG_Pc1CM_kuHbiWI4qIaoVqMKVanjRZxXZjL31C26N6uPbolA_QnjbVYYZPU/s1600/work_175.jpg" height="281" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ara Pacis (<a href="http://www.learner.org/courses/globalart/work/175/index.html" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The best way to appreciate
Augustus’s footprint on the fabric of his city is to take a tour of the works
he built. He was credited with the line, “I inherited Rome a city of brick; I
left it a city of marble,” and whether or not he actually said it, the words certainly
ring true. Perhaps the most recognizable of the monuments in his legacy is the
<b>Ara Pacis</b> (Lungotevere in Augusta). Although the first years of his
reign were marred by war, Augustus’s dedication to restoring peace to the
empire was what set him apart from the leaders who would follow him. The
majestic white marble Altar of Peace was inaugurated in 9 BC to celebrate the
peace brought to the empire by Augustus’s military victories in Hispania and
Gaul. Although partially reconstructed, the altar nevertheless possesses much
of its original bas-relief decoration, depicting Roman myths, scenes of ritual
sacrifice, intricate garlands, and a procession of Augustus and other members
of the imperial family. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKZT0XrjPOd2ERL5zpyPLqxLcfpyXlKTeo1D87VwHvqMi8qvQPR6mFExHMUlIROpZCKxWtFAxR0tB4RwHbzcZNXOfqrAlq4-pdnciN3-SvB1jtCa2etCHxYE7rve6XgKiul1f36obS5w/s1600/112337412-af91b1de-82bb-4b68-9551-c14d926f64f9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIKZT0XrjPOd2ERL5zpyPLqxLcfpyXlKTeo1D87VwHvqMi8qvQPR6mFExHMUlIROpZCKxWtFAxR0tB4RwHbzcZNXOfqrAlq4-pdnciN3-SvB1jtCa2etCHxYE7rve6XgKiul1f36obS5w/s1600/112337412-af91b1de-82bb-4b68-9551-c14d926f64f9.jpg" height="265" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ara Pacis illuminated (<a href="http://roma.repubblica.it/cronaca/2009/11/23/foto/i_colori_dell_ara_pacis-2912462/4/" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Despite the modern misconception that ancient Rome was a city of gleaming white marble, in actual fact, Roman marble buildings were generally painted in bright vibrant colors, and this was certainly the case with the Ara Pacis. In honor of this big anniversary, the exquisite monument will be illuminated with colored laser beams to recreate what it most likely looked like in the emperor's day. This is not the first time this technique has been used (see my post: <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/08/real-rome-ara-pacis-in-technocolor.html" target="_blank">Real Rome: The Ara Pacis in Technicolor</a>), but it is always spectacular to behold. You can visit tonight from 9pm to midnight without a reservation.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Il Viaggio nel Foro di Augusto,
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">© Andrea Franceschini, courtesy of Zetema Group</span></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">In the heart of the Imperial Fora,
found partially excavated alongside right and left of Via dei Fori Imperiali,
the <b>Forum of Augustus</b> was the physical representation of Augustus’s power.
The forum incorporates the Temple of Mars Ultor (the avenging god of war) and
was at the time considered “greater than any in existence.” While not completed
until 2 BC, the temple was first planned by Augustus after he successfully
avenged Caesar, killing his assassins Brutus and Cassius in 42 BC. Just in time
for the big anniversary, the forum comes to life in a summer-long project that
helps visitors experience the site as it once was. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Every night, a digital
multi-media show recreates the original appearance of the forum before your
very eyes. Audience members are provided with earphones with audio in six
languages, while the images and animation are projected directly onto the walls
of the forum. Visit </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><a href="http://www.viaggionelforodiaugusto.it/" target="_blank"><u><span style="color: blue;">www.viaggionelforodiaugusto.it</span></u></a>
</span>for more details.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ft_Fb5pNO4B37ukEmScSEY0AhZpjN3wtFhY_ddLuOjqz8qVFCkp4ylWF0Rk1rAcMqJlhFy6V8RMZYiZF03VKdpfQ97blrvLod44I_FmExe4aAUpQ1OoNDwUvMC9UUA180bcKP6KdmE0/s1600/franceschi118043221012171443_big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ft_Fb5pNO4B37ukEmScSEY0AhZpjN3wtFhY_ddLuOjqz8qVFCkp4ylWF0Rk1rAcMqJlhFy6V8RMZYiZF03VKdpfQ97blrvLod44I_FmExe4aAUpQ1OoNDwUvMC9UUA180bcKP6KdmE0/s1600/franceschi118043221012171443_big.jpg" height="266" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of the House of Augustus, Palatine Hill (<a href="http://www.repubblica.it/2006/08/gallerie/spettacoliecultura/palatino-augusto/7.html" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Unlike the emperors who would
succeed him, Augustus lived not in an opulent palace but a comfortable,
tasteful home. He chose to live on the Palatine Hill (as would his successors)
to underline his connection to Romulus and Remus, the twin founders of Rome who
were raised, according to legend, on the very same hill seven centuries
earlier, and where Augustus himself was born. Despite its relatively small
size, the <b>House of Augustus</b> is celebrated for its superb second-style
Pompeian frescoes in vibrant red, black, yellow, purple, and green. See the
glorious and well-preserved works in several rooms, including the mysterious
Room of the Masks and Augustus’s own study, an intimate haven he called
“Siracusa.” When visiting the Palatine Hill, keep in mind that this particular
site is only open Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat, and Sun, fro</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">m
8:30am to 1:30pm. (It’s always a good idea to call and double check if it’s
open: 060608.)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span><br><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN3ldp5TrWD9kBIopeiGwaMdDS0mTerK2zr-TQMaPA948Hhkw_yLdCqe3JmaPeqWwhbMM70tf3xJ3Pg1MMV5qHBHCj4mblrBrBa1i50FYe6uJzx5-JWAoPV-TR-NF6vVRrT3gSQF7ftJY/s1600/Mausaug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN3ldp5TrWD9kBIopeiGwaMdDS0mTerK2zr-TQMaPA948Hhkw_yLdCqe3JmaPeqWwhbMM70tf3xJ3Pg1MMV5qHBHCj4mblrBrBa1i50FYe6uJzx5-JWAoPV-TR-NF6vVRrT3gSQF7ftJY/s1600/Mausaug.jpg" height="265" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mausoleum of Augustus (<a href="http://www.raceandhistory.com/Europe/mausoleum.html" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Built in 28 BC, the <b>Mausoleum of
Augustus</b> (Piazza Augusto Imperatore) is perhaps the most neglected of
Rome’s ancient sights. Over the centuries, it has been the victim of cannon
fire, earthquake, abandonment, and vandalism, and during its long life has been
used as a fortress, a bullring, and a concert hall. But thanks to sturdy
defensive walls, some 15 feet thick and 50 feet tall, the site has survived
against all odds. Although the mausoleum has been closed for decades, this year’s
milestone has been the impetus for the city to pledge €12 million to its
restoration and eventual reopening. Although this site is *never* open, it is
today! To commemorate this once-in-a-millennium anniversary, the city of Rome
is opening the mausoleum for three guided tours this morning. I’ll be there at
9:30, and documenting my visit on Twitter (if I’m allowed to take photographs,
that is). If you see this in time, call 060608 and you might just be in time to
join one of the groups.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span><br><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDFd8XrG6FZPfP8Sj2owcM5ti-StEuXCfc-vmxe9gWZw3N2g4QXGculwG3atD5hURk9ninGTioNJ91KsIpqZce_KJBC0bag-3xgvuhwkDd65UG_vMaFMAijkO2hyphenhyphencAWW3UAdP4LsWPr0/s1600/roma-di-notte-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDFd8XrG6FZPfP8Sj2owcM5ti-StEuXCfc-vmxe9gWZw3N2g4QXGculwG3atD5hURk9ninGTioNJ91KsIpqZce_KJBC0bag-3xgvuhwkDd65UG_vMaFMAijkO2hyphenhyphencAWW3UAdP4LsWPr0/s1600/roma-di-notte-11.jpg" height="300" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Theater of Marcellus (<a href="http://filelleni.wordpress.com/2012/01/12/in-vendita-il-palazzo-del-teatro-di-marcello/" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">A few other sites that shouldn’t be
missed and are all within walking distance of one another: the <b>Theater of
Marcellus</b> (Via del Teatro Marcello), an imposing performing arts center and
the second-largest theater in ancient Rome, was built by Augustus in 13 BC and
is crowned by a still-inhabited palace built in the Renaissance. (All month
long, the theater’s purpose is revived with classical musical performances
staged just outside the towering structure. Check out <a href="http://www.tempietto.it/" target="_blank">www.tempietto.it</a> for a full list of
performances.) The<b> Portico of Octavia</b> (Via di Portico d’Ottavia) is
another Augustean site, once a vast cultural and religious center, although
sadly little survives today beyond its entrance gate, which is currently hidden
under a dreary layer of scaffolding. The <b>Obelisk of Montecitorio</b> (Piazza
Montecitorio) (originally from Heliopolis and dating to the 6<sup>th</sup> century
BC) was brought from Egypt to Rome by the emperor in 10 BC to be used as the
pointer of his massive sundial that spread across the Campus Martius
neighborhood. The 70-foot monolith cast a shadow across the Ara Pacis on
Augustus’s birthday (23 September), a not-so-subtle hint that he was born to
bring peace to the empire.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61LrWNhatbiwtPFVhpqbQY2Z9sJSdA_322Y3YIi6tXfZ_YUgTJ5QSbQ3cwtmI_aCBRFPSwmUJxOR8lN9JEQESZatm8E7mRmEXyWPnQy9Z5qhpVsO00hIssiUfRwgAO315haLMQw3yVT8/s1600/Augustus+of+Prima+Porta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61LrWNhatbiwtPFVhpqbQY2Z9sJSdA_322Y3YIi6tXfZ_YUgTJ5QSbQ3cwtmI_aCBRFPSwmUJxOR8lN9JEQESZatm8E7mRmEXyWPnQy9Z5qhpVsO00hIssiUfRwgAO315haLMQw3yVT8/s1600/Augustus+of+Prima+Porta.jpg" height="400" width="266"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Augustus of Prima Porta, Musei Vaticani, Source: Wiki Commons</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Get to know the man up close by
studying one (or more) of his many portraits, located in museums across the
city. By far the most famous is the <b>Augustus of Prima Porta</b>. This
larger-than-life-sized marble sculpture depicting Augustus in the role of
imperator, or military commander, was discovered in 1863 in the ruins of the
Villa of Livia, in an area that was once countryside and is now on the northern
outskirts of the city. The commanding work now has its residence in the Braccio
Nuovo section of the Vatican Museums (Viale Vaticano). </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span><br><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6YoUxJdCqfFQLwIe-6-fCRAmE8uhyphenhyphenG_hfGIlN8w1XRNu-NBoVZMHqi9hchHs284xcCsmO4C3khompZ4BKRzKrRVKCMvhcp9S54nQZi5rZeP2OCdol0QluutVkMQXMIWrHLFZv0nG_HSU/s1600/Bust+of+Augustus,+Pinecone+Courtyard,+by+Nick+Thompson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6YoUxJdCqfFQLwIe-6-fCRAmE8uhyphenhyphenG_hfGIlN8w1XRNu-NBoVZMHqi9hchHs284xcCsmO4C3khompZ4BKRzKrRVKCMvhcp9S54nQZi5rZeP2OCdol0QluutVkMQXMIWrHLFZv0nG_HSU/s1600/Bust+of+Augustus,+Pinecone+Courtyard,+by+Nick+Thompson.jpg" height="400" width="266"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bust of the Divine Augustus, Musei Vaticani, </span><br><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif";">© Nick Thompson</span></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span><br><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Also displayed at
the Vatican, in the welcoming Pinecone Courtyard, is an enormous posthumous
portrait of the <b>Divine Augustus</b>, discovered in the 16<sup>th</sup>
century on the Aventine Hill. Another celebrated portrait is the <b>Augustus of
Via Labicana</b>. Located today at the National Roman Museum at Palazzo Massimo
(Largo di Villa Peretti, 1), this moving work represents a togaed Augustus in
his role as Pontifex Maximus, Rome’s spiritual leader. The Hall of the Emperors
at the Capitoline Museums (Piazza del Campidoglio, 1) displays the <b>Ottaviano
Capitolino</b>, an important early bust of Augustus, showing him as a
determined, ambitious, yet vulnerable young man. But you don’t have to visit a
museum to find a portrait of Rome’s favorite leader. A modern bronze copy of
the Prima Porta statue stands in front of Augustus’s forum along Via dei Fori
Imperiali.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsC5YNd0faaj4nj5EIScP9-y9qjFd4WqeOI-pJfpyvaK0yNar4E3z64zGqbabGeIJs61vIkPcvR1i5320W2qsNcmBFRPhtxvGTpJahydxOSO2GNbIAsMIhuxwGMQEYQetVPCzohQDoaI/s1600/Ottaviano+Capitolino.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsC5YNd0faaj4nj5EIScP9-y9qjFd4WqeOI-pJfpyvaK0yNar4E3z64zGqbabGeIJs61vIkPcvR1i5320W2qsNcmBFRPhtxvGTpJahydxOSO2GNbIAsMIhuxwGMQEYQetVPCzohQDoaI/s1600/Ottaviano+Capitolino.jpg" height="400" width="286"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ottaviano Capitolino</i>, Capitoline Museums, Source: Wiki Commons</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">“If I have
played my part well, clap your hands and dismiss me with applause from the
stage.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">—</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Augustus’s
last words</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-19067338213945259992014-04-07T23:26:00.001+02:002014-04-07T23:41:55.841+02:00My Rome Bucket List -- 21 Things to Do in Rome in a LifetimeI've been noticing a trend. In case you're interested, I'm not a very trendy person. I usually pick up on things around 2-10 years after they become popular. Case in point, I just discovered <i>Downton Abbey</i> and Madonna's album <i>Ray of Light</i>. (Have you heard it? It's <i>amazing</i>.) However, every so often--and I'm talking very rarely--I actually get into something <i>before </i>it starts trending. I still claim to have started the Capri pants craze back in the late '90s.<br />
<br />
You're welcome.<br />
<br />
Upon further consideration, it may just have been that I was about four decades late in picking up on a trend that Audrey Hepburn had started back in the 50s.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDaToUgIbb1jlSI5AFv8-poXVJaDzs39UIwXRO6m9w-0DT6y37lJFhRIeuSDVbIe-74cyVGCUx27_oAY8pfXr9_YPi4lmtG1JMHX_0aCRTYhIuNR-uE3ltMRcdoPLwFM1RK8tivWuJppA/s1600/audrey-hepburn2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDaToUgIbb1jlSI5AFv8-poXVJaDzs39UIwXRO6m9w-0DT6y37lJFhRIeuSDVbIe-74cyVGCUx27_oAY8pfXr9_YPi4lmtG1JMHX_0aCRTYhIuNR-uE3ltMRcdoPLwFM1RK8tivWuJppA/s1600/audrey-hepburn2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://ladyfairy-scloset.blogspot.it/2012/05/fashion-icon-of-month-audrey-hepburn.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But be that as it may, another trend that I somehow jumped the gun on was the Bucket List phenomenon. Before "bucket list" became a common household term, before there was even a film of that name, I had written one. <br />
<br />
Of course I didn't call it a bucket list. It was probably called <i>Things I Will Do Before I Die</i>, or similar. And believe me, there were a lot of things on that list. But now that making these ambitious and adventurous lists has become so very trendy, particularly with bloggers, I guess I'd better make a new one. But this time, its a themed bucket list. Below you will find 21 things that I vow one day to do in Rome.<br />
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And as anyone who's ever written a to-do list knows, you've got to add some items that you've already accomplished, so you can feel good about yourself, like you're getting things done. And I may throw in one or two things that seem well nigh impossible, just to make sure I never stop dreaming.<br />
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<b>1. Climb the internal spiral staircase to the top of the Column of Marcus Aurelius.</b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVKLmmbyMig5A80_MoLNccnWDsocMq1aZ01P3Iyp7X9MuF5JLWMpW1alN6P_OyR2vQqkQA87HnfwNhI3KTpcMz5owT7ny_hic5jyVFO0yHh3seq2mZWogLBamPqdFpKxPAlnI-2Cncs0/s1600/Column+Marcus+Aurelius.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVKLmmbyMig5A80_MoLNccnWDsocMq1aZ01P3Iyp7X9MuF5JLWMpW1alN6P_OyR2vQqkQA87HnfwNhI3KTpcMz5owT7ny_hic5jyVFO0yHh3seq2mZWogLBamPqdFpKxPAlnI-2Cncs0/s1600/Column+Marcus+Aurelius.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.google.it/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&docid=BfQ65wGkRPB7RM&tbnid=SbEgqFJPtJ2OyM:&ved=0CAEQjxw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.geolocation.ws%2Fv%2FP%2F30836682%2Fcolumn-of-marcus-aurelius%2Fen&ei=wAFDU9qoF5HSsgbyzYDADQ&bvm=bv.64125504,d.bGQ&psig=AFQjCNHiAn1rB1wt2Cc_2Vk_7bgaHVYb4A&ust=1396985734021441%20" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinGSufv8q_u4_o5rChdvME3RSxyhR9j-BxSuznoor9dkJbhoZ_xsLGf7pH-jXI0bvDx-1Tq62F-Lvo4J_f7xmg-4XgjA1ayT9LRwBMXxJ57GDzG_iiwL_0_qdLuA3HaIik-y9mfYe9DrQ/s1600/26905_b401300000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinGSufv8q_u4_o5rChdvME3RSxyhR9j-BxSuznoor9dkJbhoZ_xsLGf7pH-jXI0bvDx-1Tq62F-Lvo4J_f7xmg-4XgjA1ayT9LRwBMXxJ57GDzG_iiwL_0_qdLuA3HaIik-y9mfYe9DrQ/s1600/26905_b401300000.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.lombardiabeniculturali.it/opere-arte/schede/4y010-26905/%20" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Ok, so I'm starting with an impractical one. <i>No one</i> gets to do this. And by no one, I mean, probably Obama could do this if he were weird like me and knew to want to do such a thing. This is going to be a very hard one. No plan as yet.<br />
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<b>2. Stand in the Sistine Chapel when it's empty (or at least, empty of all but one or two guards).</b><br />
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I could actually probably do this one pretty easily, since my Maritino is one of said guards. I'll have to bug him.<br />
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<b>3. See every Caravaggio work in Rome (and eventually the world!).</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNomX81mCPl849sz8laam_89-9CJWXZ-CLku3W6LbZU_UQBRjvUyP3PWNXYcC2ukP4RCbeP4eJhs_1VVkUutE7cz1A7XgMjeUIIYE6TUmr07-UK9UUy2CZlS-A6GMokQ1v0NTBkwokhc/s1600/car_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNomX81mCPl849sz8laam_89-9CJWXZ-CLku3W6LbZU_UQBRjvUyP3PWNXYcC2ukP4RCbeP4eJhs_1VVkUutE7cz1A7XgMjeUIIYE6TUmr07-UK9UUy2CZlS-A6GMokQ1v0NTBkwokhc/s1600/car_14.jpg" height="168" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://italianprinces.com/Caravag.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Considering I have traveled to Naples, Malta, Siracusa, Messina, Cremona, Milan, Paris, Vienna, London, and beyond, just to see works by my favorite painter, it kind of surprises me that I haven't seen all of the ones right here in my city. The only one I haven't seen is the so-called mural of <i>Jupiter, Neptune, and Pluto</i> that adorns the casino of the Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, a noble residence, still in private hands. They do allow visitors, but very rarely and by advance appointment only.<br />
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<b>4. For the above, and other reasons, visit the Casino of Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi.</b><br />
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And try not to cry when thinking about the <a href="http://www.romeartlover.it/Vasi189.htm" target="_blank">vast and sublime hillside gardens that once existed here</a>, but were heartlessly bulldozed to create Via Veneto. Viva la dolce vita.<br />
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<b>5. Visit <i>every single</i> museum in Rome, at least once. </b><br />
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I'm not sure exactly how many museums there are in the city, but if I had to make a random guess, I'd say between 60 and 80. Luckily I've got a big head start on this one.<br />
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<b>6. Write a blogpost on<i> every single</i> museum in Rome, after visiting.</b><br />
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This is probably going to get very tedious, but you know what? You're worth it.<br />
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<b>7. Chat with Maestro Riccardo Muti in the green room of Teatro Costanzi just after he's conducted a Verdi opera.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Ln_hp7GGMDbuLlCETS3C0vlnZPV9p17wEAVN2-DouLNbYanUiCZ18AF4vBPtHHNgLZZdVddupjozQE6q9-3eB6M5QYOTggjIn2ZA4mDp_KAdeJPxntFvjmZ1XKWtMYNKEsTavHx5wGc/s1600/Tiffany+and+Riccardo+Muti.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Ln_hp7GGMDbuLlCETS3C0vlnZPV9p17wEAVN2-DouLNbYanUiCZ18AF4vBPtHHNgLZZdVddupjozQE6q9-3eB6M5QYOTggjIn2ZA4mDp_KAdeJPxntFvjmZ1XKWtMYNKEsTavHx5wGc/s1600/Tiffany+and+Riccardo+Muti.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Personal photo</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/10/200-years-of-giuseppe-verdi.html" target="_blank">I did this one.</a><br />
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<b>8. Stand in the office of the mayor of Rome (and on his balcony).</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_i8szMfEK2CAm85KQw0a4dxhFlAyjNrXtqxi1o9UM3M9iI8YB141K06_sM0xBGEGMc6vD0wUDXkRoUAYt4sH-CmbZNfNZTB-aJpEt5-i96GlrtXaiGa1UkxzB5PFoapbIVsTfiIaBVZw/s1600/1977,+con+Andreotti+e+Giscard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_i8szMfEK2CAm85KQw0a4dxhFlAyjNrXtqxi1o9UM3M9iI8YB141K06_sM0xBGEGMc6vD0wUDXkRoUAYt4sH-CmbZNfNZTB-aJpEt5-i96GlrtXaiGa1UkxzB5PFoapbIVsTfiIaBVZw/s1600/1977,+con+Andreotti+e+Giscard.jpg" height="308" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prime Minister Andreotti, Roma Mayor Argan, and French President Giscard, 1977 [<a href="http://www.giuliocarloargan.org/argan_foto.htm" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While yes, I have done this one too, the mayor (then Gianni Alemanno) was not there at the time. The best part about his office is its private balcony that juts right out into the Roman Forum from above the Tabularium.<br />
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<b>9. Meet <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/03/twelve-months-pope.html" target="_blank">Pope Francis</a>.</b><br />
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The Maritino has already done this. So jealous.<br />
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<b>10. See <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/03/romes-truly-hidden-gems-convent-of.html" target="_blank">Antoniazzo Romano's frescoes in the Tor de' Specchi convent</a> (also known as the House of Santa Francesca Romana).</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOJ6u9q05eNLqjDOfcifETHptqzkQw-UZ8WoAIFtGPq2H7I6KJ2MRAspO12SO1eXWk_T0l3b_baI9fQ7spW28Q3AcOoRxmZKbXow0lFRZ14LJz7MAhsQ7PAya7b9Lct0cPefP16iHyrU/s1600/parete-ovest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOJ6u9q05eNLqjDOfcifETHptqzkQw-UZ8WoAIFtGPq2H7I6KJ2MRAspO12SO1eXWk_T0l3b_baI9fQ7spW28Q3AcOoRxmZKbXow0lFRZ14LJz7MAhsQ7PAya7b9Lct0cPefP16iHyrU/s1600/parete-ovest.jpg" height="202" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://romatreperroma.wordpress.com/visite-guidate/a-a-2012-2013/il-monastero-di-santa-francesca-romana-a-tor-de-specchi/parete-ovest/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So this one I have actually done three times. Anyone can do it, you just have to get the timing right. It's only open one day per year, 9 March. It's always a good idea to call ahead to check the opening times, as they vary year to year. Also, go as early as you possibly can, or risk having to stand in a long line. Either way, it's <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/03/romes-truly-hidden-gems-convent-of.html" target="_blank">absolutely worth it</a>.<br />
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<b>11. See Annibale Carracci's glorious frescoes in Palazzo Farnese.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8ULGqsAckXUpYbY08o2AjFRAzct8zqsjgP7iTis8XN-H_OQw3NsD8HLqoPHQWu3FF3gh6_ct-FG1qZevAF9H5cLpNbJoMkshfbHbRmYF6vCBiMKMe8yEhOjBvyUkFz1JEHekQuCPyU0/s1600/Galleria-Oct06-DC8696sAR800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8ULGqsAckXUpYbY08o2AjFRAzct8zqsjgP7iTis8XN-H_OQw3NsD8HLqoPHQWu3FF3gh6_ct-FG1qZevAF9H5cLpNbJoMkshfbHbRmYF6vCBiMKMe8yEhOjBvyUkFz1JEHekQuCPyU0/s1600/Galleria-Oct06-DC8696sAR800.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.paradoxplace.com/Perspectives/Rome%20&%20Central%20Italy/Rome/Rome_Palaces/Farnese%20Palace/Palazzo_Farnese.htm" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another one I can check off right away. This has luckily become not such a difficult thing to do. Just takes a little planning. When I first moved to Rome back in 2004 (hereafter known as "back in the day"), if you wanted to visit Palazzo Farnese (the seat of the French Embassy), you had to wait until La Notte Bianca and line up for about 2-3 hours. Well, not anymore! Now you can book a visit online through <a href="http://inventerrome.com/index.php/en/visiting-the-palazzo-farnese" target="_blank">Inventer Rome Cultural Association</a>. Heads up though, the Carracci Gallery (the main reason to visit the palace) is presently being restored. Don't bother visiting until 2015, perhaps later.<br />
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<b>12. Visit the Quirinal Gardens.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRm30PRdI0l97OMdxOlPQUoy19nG5vrPXj_ERe0Dat2LKagZw-SB1fyr20jA7Hiyj4vwqjDsObans-UYKayfzUdaxEt_WQXOtbniip82v2b9ckRvGRJEdnMAuc_SSLw1MQq1z-rTVc6LU/s1600/53375338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRm30PRdI0l97OMdxOlPQUoy19nG5vrPXj_ERe0Dat2LKagZw-SB1fyr20jA7Hiyj4vwqjDsObans-UYKayfzUdaxEt_WQXOtbniip82v2b9ckRvGRJEdnMAuc_SSLw1MQq1z-rTVc6LU/s1600/53375338.jpg" height="256" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.panoramio.com/photo/53375338%20" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Again, planning is everything. These lush gardens are open to the public every year on 2 June for the Festa della Repubblica. This is one of those things that I always plan to do, but never quite get around to.<br />
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<b>13. Have the Trevi Fountain entire to myself.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdroH5OW8m_5SW5mjYl4jhwjsoQc4Dj_5Jq-LrdD_i7WZ5CpXnYa6molbg1keom3H9nBfN5MjrBNfGfudiEVkQXcqe9okncIeushraHuXiU2pSel0tMfOBkBDv5sokIhwQa5eFX29cy8/s1600/Fontana_di_Trevi_in_notturna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRdroH5OW8m_5SW5mjYl4jhwjsoQc4Dj_5Jq-LrdD_i7WZ5CpXnYa6molbg1keom3H9nBfN5MjrBNfGfudiEVkQXcqe9okncIeushraHuXiU2pSel0tMfOBkBDv5sokIhwQa5eFX29cy8/s1600/Fontana_di_Trevi_in_notturna.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.italia.it/it/idee-di-viaggio/arte-e-storia/le-fontane-di-roma.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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If you get up early enough, or stay up late enough, anyone can do this. For me it happened some time during the summer of 2007, during a very late night out with some friends, cycling around Rome at about four in the morning. When we stumbled upon the fountain, it was deserted. There was literally no one there but us. But you don't need to be awake at quite so ungodly an hour, providing it's the off-season. <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/03/a-podcast-is-born-bittersweet-life-two.html" target="_blank">My friend Katy</a>, who's living here for the year, was out and about early one morning, and found the Trevi deserted around 8am.<br />
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<b>14. Visit the Casino di Bel Respiro in <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2010/07/villa-of-dreams.html" target="_blank">Villa Pamphilj</a></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZHG7Q8EB_lrfsBaeSFD2m_mqEWYUki_K4kR3PFwLQfsuqr-b031VPos5KF-VjHoksDUin0QcgsP_mHYUuN-L3qpBaXszYGB3IPu4oTgAlqcdbwAh19rRjvpFmapCYwiAeY-e0bFoMl4/s1600/IMG_2024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZHG7Q8EB_lrfsBaeSFD2m_mqEWYUki_K4kR3PFwLQfsuqr-b031VPos5KF-VjHoksDUin0QcgsP_mHYUuN-L3qpBaXszYGB3IPu4oTgAlqcdbwAh19rRjvpFmapCYwiAeY-e0bFoMl4/s1600/IMG_2024.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Photo by author</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Back in 2010, the last time the late Colonel Gaddafi visited Rome, I burned with indignation that this international bully (to use a mild term), was allowed to traipse around the jewel of Villa Pamphilj. How dare he be allowed inside the Casino di Bel Respiro (also known as Villa Algardi), a sublime Baroque treasure that is closed to the general public, when regular Italians are not permitted to set foot inside? Or so I thought until I was informed otherwise. We non-heads of state actually can visit this exquisite palace, but only on Saturday mornings by appointment. It's even free. I haven't yet done it myself, but here's the number in case you are interested: (+39) 0667794555 (or email visite@governo.it).<br />
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<b>15. Visit the Vatican Necropolis.</b><br />
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As in, where St. Peter is supposedly buried. Can't believe I haven't done this yet. No excuses, really.<br />
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<b>16. Visit all seven pilgrim churches on foot, preferably in a jubilee year. And walk through the Holy Doors of St. Peter's.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheruZgcblg2CRPD3DqPGp0TRSb9gTWZvq0qSSOcSo_8-7dE_mTEy7kCtakgTPpcQKtwE1RQdHUsj8uXMGKuT8Z7vc4m2vuH4qUqnAhNRDo9rt6HQ0tc7No4wA8rYdPOUDunpK8zejJ9pk/s1600/1575SetteChieseS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheruZgcblg2CRPD3DqPGp0TRSb9gTWZvq0qSSOcSo_8-7dE_mTEy7kCtakgTPpcQKtwE1RQdHUsj8uXMGKuT8Z7vc4m2vuH4qUqnAhNRDo9rt6HQ0tc7No4wA8rYdPOUDunpK8zejJ9pk/s1600/1575SetteChieseS.jpg" height="313" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.inf.uni-konstanz.de/algo/projects/visnav/projects/kunstges/romplaene.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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I'll have to wait till 2025 (and invest in a very good pair of walking shoes) before I get a chance to attempt this. <br />
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<b>17. Visit the interior of the Pyramid of Cestius.</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3kI1oIr26smoX2IMsmsh55_k0jqv_S_WdX8Rc7zdYMtII-nst62aXfhipiDYKKKCda935L6wbvnLSDgZrTkyvBFQ6yC7KsG-3xNNOVvQSWKTSqeaLkoNhotXQepI5y1lDrXx_QbUC968/s1600/Pyramid+of+Cestius+under+restoration.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3kI1oIr26smoX2IMsmsh55_k0jqv_S_WdX8Rc7zdYMtII-nst62aXfhipiDYKKKCda935L6wbvnLSDgZrTkyvBFQ6yC7KsG-3xNNOVvQSWKTSqeaLkoNhotXQepI5y1lDrXx_QbUC968/s1600/Pyramid+of+Cestius+under+restoration.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Photo by author</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
I believe that this was relatively possible until a few years ago. Now that the pyramid is being restored (its white Carrara marble is scrubbing up quite nicely, by the way), who knows if visiting the interior will ever be possible again? Since I walk past it every day on my way to and from work, it has dug its way into my imagination, and now I'm dying to explore inside.<br />
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<b>18. Visit the <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2010/05/tower-of-winds-and-gregorian-calendar.html" target="_blank">Tower of the Winds</a>.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fsn0CAg3ljO_sCBPwTQalB4PnNxC4yUAvtSiyTP398z4ADB5Fu77bQtZDhkj3V5SqNF22rzOeoKbLfn8ZooP1806_sn52XuYB1rw5TZxRxywCa4TUCN9Ez6Vb0JsgrVKvTgn7QTi1BY/s1600/Torre+dei+Venti+09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fsn0CAg3ljO_sCBPwTQalB4PnNxC4yUAvtSiyTP398z4ADB5Fu77bQtZDhkj3V5SqNF22rzOeoKbLfn8ZooP1806_sn52XuYB1rw5TZxRxywCa4TUCN9Ez6Vb0JsgrVKvTgn7QTi1BY/s1600/Torre+dei+Venti+09.jpg" height="400" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://coisasmesmofantasticas.blogspot.it/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Although not completely off limits anymore, as it was "back in the day" when I got to go (an exceptionally rare visit that I was allowed to be part of thanks to a friend of a friend of my now Maritino), the Tower of Winds (or Torre dei Venti) in the Vatican has nevertheless been seen by very few people. It's a fascinating and beautiful place and you can read more about its function and history <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2010/05/tower-of-winds-and-gregorian-calendar.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<b>19. Visit the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJP2mT4buKs" target="_blank">Basilica Neopitagorica</a>.</b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYq8iNpsBFVUovRdPZpFsv6C8B1UpYNQBxurlEh16Djw08O04x15RMHquvvQvGkWYzkQva4G7DpK1for5FGquPTIpb5d6tao4kWsZqnUjXCiLFFrw1RtA5EpjEF_gO7aAxlIebq3blhI/s1600/basilica_neopitagorica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYq8iNpsBFVUovRdPZpFsv6C8B1UpYNQBxurlEh16Djw08O04x15RMHquvvQvGkWYzkQva4G7DpK1for5FGquPTIpb5d6tao4kWsZqnUjXCiLFFrw1RtA5EpjEF_gO7aAxlIebq3blhI/s1600/basilica_neopitagorica.jpg" height="249" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.romanoimpero.com/2010/03/basilica-pitagorica.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfTXNvxUTXgsAbnL7BwOP2MsA51Wlogt7BNSOwmEaOnJDzWicjBh3Ar8TTTPiBPgAJ4eXpucu-iRYJHb-QjxlKgh-a4dy-H2gMGHfoAZxa0wh4rEDm1Unn8NYim19mAUps2zQAbQw1y8/s1600/Pianta_Basilica_Neopitagorica.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfTXNvxUTXgsAbnL7BwOP2MsA51Wlogt7BNSOwmEaOnJDzWicjBh3Ar8TTTPiBPgAJ4eXpucu-iRYJHb-QjxlKgh-a4dy-H2gMGHfoAZxa0wh4rEDm1Unn8NYim19mAUps2zQAbQw1y8/s1600/Pianta_Basilica_Neopitagorica.jpg" height="320" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.romasotterranea.it/basilica-neopitagorica.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This is probably one of Rome's most mysterious sites. Almost nothing is known about this 2000-year-old esoteric basilica buried near Porta Maggiore and discovered by chance in 1917. The vast three-nave basilica is entirely underground and it is decorated with stucco reliefs of mystical images. Because the basilica is directly underneath major railway lines near Termini Station, it is extremely fragile. That, and the fact that a mysterious "parasite" or "bacteria" lives down there (according to the above-linked video), means it is very very closed. Another daunting challenge.<br />
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<b>20. Get married in Rome.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBm1TW1asQsEviywCvk5DWd9IO5D0k3kROzBa7MIN1StpxqtHqW-9Sv6xbIaYVFlWloMoh397t5smZCRqUO096DgI-pGqM9JUCDc5clixZ0H_LSaVSBI1RMUyUuLrBWxtvWYbdIpSfqhk/s1600/320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBm1TW1asQsEviywCvk5DWd9IO5D0k3kROzBa7MIN1StpxqtHqW-9Sv6xbIaYVFlWloMoh397t5smZCRqUO096DgI-pGqM9JUCDc5clixZ0H_LSaVSBI1RMUyUuLrBWxtvWYbdIpSfqhk/s1600/320.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">© Luca Cappellaro, <a href="http://www.fineartwedding.it/" target="_blank">Fine Art Wedding</a><b><br /></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Done and done.<br />
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<b>21. And last but not least, have my own rooftop terrace with a view of the city.</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCLRuYSkX0Sh4jHbF5Q1U1wus9KMLfJhaZcNbCikfDFAHABi875TL5GQEm04sWPjWgt1T5VXlU77rICLejU6pfW56h1iKNXtdmn0bhcE4BTOLNs0nu95uLDLHwu7IMh3YgCribX0CKDZM/s1600/rome-apartment-1050rome-p1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCLRuYSkX0Sh4jHbF5Q1U1wus9KMLfJhaZcNbCikfDFAHABi875TL5GQEm04sWPjWgt1T5VXlU77rICLejU6pfW56h1iKNXtdmn0bhcE4BTOLNs0nu95uLDLHwu7IMh3YgCribX0CKDZM/s1600/rome-apartment-1050rome-p1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.romanreference.com/en/rome/apartment/1050rome" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A girl can dream, right?<br />
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<br />
Can you think of anything to add? Have you done any of these things?<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-26346280713390800062014-04-02T11:30:00.001+02:002014-04-02T11:30:22.977+02:00Batman Invites You to Celebrate His Birthday at Romics--Here’s Why You Should Be at This Party<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Guest post by </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Claudio Ianniello</span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Romics is an unmissable opportunity to immerse yourself
in 360° of imagination and fantasy. This event offers ideas to revive childhood
dreams and rediscover a wealth of symbols and myths that—consciously or not—we
all refer to at some point during our lives. Despite the economic, moral, and
intellectual crisis we are experiencing, this festival of comics, animation,
games, and entertainment, returns to the Nuova Fiera di Roma with renewed
energy for its 15<sup>th</sup> edition. The slew of interesting events and
guest stars from around the world confirming the international appeal of this
great Kermesse that takes place in Rome twice a year. Organized by the Fiera di
Roma and I Castelli Animati ( the international animated film festival), the
exhibition takes place inside enormous trade pavilions, which host dozens of
stands with all the latest releases, video games, gadgets, as well as major
collectors and representatives of the most important publishing houses and
comic book shops. There are also various themed performances, as wells as areas
where fans can meet with authors, personalities, and publishers.</span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr-gPOqYquVMNw9UbX25bwZv7ib0oDw7Ii_U6VshmtTCP1ElwOX6UjEO_NHmbHNQLYVRvg8BE0By2P3fYEWwbuXfxC6tiKUui3wcCT6bEM7PfMvqM37HG-it2jo_0dT5CJHwj8rDo9ZtQ/s1600/Paolo+Barbieri+-uff+stampa+romics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr-gPOqYquVMNw9UbX25bwZv7ib0oDw7Ii_U6VshmtTCP1ElwOX6UjEO_NHmbHNQLYVRvg8BE0By2P3fYEWwbuXfxC6tiKUui3wcCT6bEM7PfMvqM37HG-it2jo_0dT5CJHwj8rDo9ZtQ/s1600/Paolo+Barbieri+-uff+stampa+romics.jpg" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paolo Barbieri, Courtesy of Romics Press Office</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgALdOMSZcdgfKxi6NUoR4aa4_-jx9puYvvQtslAbnq41E745y5NDml4EvOJt90yAYbd-a1rE5IIJJWIYHnRcydV8Z76sHhNrISq2n4DyIrZDDN3-0rtbbMrTw_Dr_RIVNa3kPnAV7iCuQ/s1600/barry+purves,+da+httpbarrypurves.com.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgALdOMSZcdgfKxi6NUoR4aa4_-jx9puYvvQtslAbnq41E745y5NDml4EvOJt90yAYbd-a1rE5IIJJWIYHnRcydV8Z76sHhNrISq2n4DyIrZDDN3-0rtbbMrTw_Dr_RIVNa3kPnAV7iCuQ/s1600/barry+purves,+da+httpbarrypurves.com.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barry Purves [<a href="http://www.barrypurves.com/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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</span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Three world-class special guests will receive this year's Romics d'Oro
Award. First, an undisputed star of American comics, Jae Lee, the author of the
latest Batman and Superman series, and a true legend in the world Dc Comics. In
addition, the festival celebrates 75 years of Batman, an unmissable milestone
for comic book lovers. And from the universe of Fantasy drawing comes the astonishing
pencil Paolo Barbieri, who has designed covers for the books of dozens of
writers, including Michael Crichton, Clive Clusser, Umberto Eco, Bernard
Cornwell, and Wilbur Smith. He also illustrated a publication of Dante's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Inferno</i> and St. John’s<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Apocalypse</i>, both meeting with resounding success. Barbieri’s work
will be the subject of a retrospective exhibition. And finally, straight from
the big screen, legendary animator and director Barry Purves, will be making an
appearance. This Oscar-nominated puppet master has collaborated with directors such
as Tim Burton on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mars Attack</i> and
Peter Jackson on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">King Kong</i>.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpi5uACz5uveD0naNyoksq8sk0aR39K8STC5jxGW7VUh1-R5OIyV7z6tBIV2EaCMhBuufozVY7-2LS40sOtzyHiUW95QGkmHbsKBqX2fbSU74i26ooJBd3iEvmuliwMV44hlrJptMkBQo/s1600/Naoya+Yamaguchi,da+romics.it.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpi5uACz5uveD0naNyoksq8sk0aR39K8STC5jxGW7VUh1-R5OIyV7z6tBIV2EaCMhBuufozVY7-2LS40sOtzyHiUW95QGkmHbsKBqX2fbSU74i26ooJBd3iEvmuliwMV44hlrJptMkBQo/s1600/Naoya+Yamaguchi,da+romics.it.jpg" height="335" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naoya Yamaguchi [<a href="http://www.romics.it/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Romics will also host a world-renowned master photographer, Naoya
Yamaguchi, one of the greatest interpreters of Eastern photography. Yamaguchi
travels around the world presenting his work, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Japonism</i>, an exhibition of his photographs that express the
essence of the Japanese spirit, and reveal the hidden soul of the Land of the
Rising Sun.</span></div>
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Other events include the "Grand Gala of Dubbing," a tribute to the
great Italian voice-over actors, the presentation of the "Cosplay Romics
Award" and “Cosplay Kids Award,” competitions dedicated to those passionate
about dressing up as their favorite comic book characters.</span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">In addition,
with the aim of providing maximum circulation of high-quality comic books,
Romics hosts a comic book competition, offering a comprehensive overview of the
most recent and relevant publications in Italian comic books, published by
major publishing houses specializing in both comic books and graphic novels.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batman, Courtesy of Romics Press Office</td></tr>
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</span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">An entertaining first-time event will be the “Nippon World Karaoke Grand
Prix Cosplay By Live Adam” where participants will perform (in costume) the
theme songs of Japanese cartoons.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
M</span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">ovie lovers will enjoy a preview of the horror film <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Oculus </i>by Mike Flanagan starring Karen Gillian. In the Movie
Village, the film area that was inaugurated last year, will be dedicated to the
fourth season of </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Game of Thrones</span></i><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">. In
short, there is something for everyone—whether you’re a comic book lover, a
gamer, a movie enthusiast, or just someone who remembers dressing up as their
favorite super hero as a kid. For anyone who appreciates original design, a
good book, or an artistic photo, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Romics is all this, and much more.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">Nuova Fiera di Roma</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: IT;">Via Portuense, 1645 (north entrance)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tel
0687729190. </span><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.romics.it/"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">www.romics.it</span></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3—6
April. Open 10am—8pm.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">To
get there, take the FR1 train to “Nuova Fiera di Roma” (€1.50) from Tiburtina,
Tuscolana, Ostiense, or Trastevere stations. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">By
car take the “Fiera di Roma” exit on the Roma-Fiumicino freeway.</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-16780528914357122052014-03-26T12:39:00.001+01:002014-03-26T12:45:32.277+01:00A Podcast is Born! The BitterSweet Life: Two Expats in Rome<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbXcONFRnjpgyhOdFq2fPGzR6_a9dxlxlUN2KZlmWL8ce0pfhFpj567Tp-U-KGHylffo229qfxhyphenhyphen5CyyT7BxF94fvSsq513-NC8fpNMxdf5oqSzZFNz4odjLM_PoXSF76AUXcZzu15f4/s1600/Bittersweet+Life+logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbXcONFRnjpgyhOdFq2fPGzR6_a9dxlxlUN2KZlmWL8ce0pfhFpj567Tp-U-KGHylffo229qfxhyphenhyphen5CyyT7BxF94fvSsq513-NC8fpNMxdf5oqSzZFNz4odjLM_PoXSF76AUXcZzu15f4/s1600/Bittersweet+Life+logo.jpg" height="293" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
I was 11 years old, sitting alone on an uncomfortable school bus seat on a cold Northwestern fall morning. After spending my entire elementary school life sheltered in a tiny private school, I was suddenly out in the big, scary world of public middle school. I was, in a word, daunted. And pretty sure I would never make any friends.<br />
<br />
About halfway into the commute to school (in my memory this happened on the first day of school, but I can't be certain that was the case), a cute, dark-haired girl named Katy, who was just my size--maybe even an inch shorter (and I was always the shortest in my class)--got on the bus and shyly asked if she could sit with me. This, my friends, was the beginning of a beautiful friendship.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO1jUZGMVzOETiYIZWr8l3pxuRj_x7_5gZHvqA7DU3RliC9rpXSBF8Fd9G0a5N3LyZs0e_PPHfI68wt3iF7MSmH1dsCrBI79tij2yLtWNoGMGZgl3Bjn8mTX14SNfqeZllTL1BWcFqYE/s1600/.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO1jUZGMVzOETiYIZWr8l3pxuRj_x7_5gZHvqA7DU3RliC9rpXSBF8Fd9G0a5N3LyZs0e_PPHfI68wt3iF7MSmH1dsCrBI79tij2yLtWNoGMGZgl3Bjn8mTX14SNfqeZllTL1BWcFqYE/s1600/.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Katy, on the stage of Youth Theatre Northwest, Mercer Island, WA, about 13 years old</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Fast-forward twenty-some years and I'm living in Rome, far far away from the beautiful, rainy Pacific Northwest and all the old friends I grew up with. Despite seeing Katy once a year or usually less, we've remained as close over the years as we always were. She's one of those people that, despite the distance that separates us, despite how infrequently we see each other or even talk on the phone, I just know will always, always be in my life.<br />
<br />
So you can imagine my surprise and elation when she announced that she and her husband were moving to Rome for a year. It was an expat's dream come true. She has been here since September, and it has been one of my best years in Rome so far, because of her. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbNIGNZp0LYfYpn-3foaYkSN_jGwABTuq2HVrT5pUrkJsDmh-9S_HLVlQG6rEL2paHjfkQDEoWoPydRrTzKx_IVUz3P9-tw5XnrJWU4OWWoz71DLflSFf8MP7tqg16WL9VCyHzj3cRqns/s1600/IMG_4077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbNIGNZp0LYfYpn-3foaYkSN_jGwABTuq2HVrT5pUrkJsDmh-9S_HLVlQG6rEL2paHjfkQDEoWoPydRrTzKx_IVUz3P9-tw5XnrJWU4OWWoz71DLflSFf8MP7tqg16WL9VCyHzj3cRqns/s1600/IMG_4077.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Katy on her first full-day as a Rome expat, Gianicolo Hill, September 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Since Katy is an NPR radio producer, and I am (among other things) an expat blogger, we decided to put our talents and expertise together to create a weekly (free!) podcast discussing the ups and downs of expat life. Since we both live in Italy, we naturally talk about Italy and Italians a lot, but we also touch on many topics that expats in any country might encounter. Our combined experiences, mine as a long-term expat, Katy's as a short-term one, give us two complementary points of view, which makes for lively and (we hope) interesting discussions.<br />
<br />
If you've been following this blog for a while, you'll know I don't write much about my personal life. Yes, every so often I will wax poetic on <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/12/my-italian-ancestors.html" target="_blank">my Italian ancestors</a>, the<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/08/room-with-view-fate-and-allure-of-italy.html" target="_blank"> fated path that brought me to Italy</a>, or the <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/08/are-italian-women-really-unhappy.html" target="_blank">battle of the sexes Italian-style</a>, but nine times out of ten, my posts are about <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2014/03/romes-truly-hidden-gems-convent-of.html" target="_blank">art</a>,<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/08/introduction-to-seven-kings-of-rome.html" target="_blank"> history</a>, <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/10/200-years-of-giuseppe-verdi.html" target="_blank">music</a>, and<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/05/the-streets-of-rome-vicolo-del-leonetto.html" target="_blank"> curiosities</a> here in Rome or the <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/a-short-history-of-conclave.html" target="_blank">Vatican</a>. As much as I'd like to post about my personal life, an odd sort of shyness often prevents me.<br />
<br />
Well not any more! The podcast,<i> <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/" target="_blank">The BitterSweet Life</a></i>, is frank, spontaneous, and thoroughly personal. It is probably of particular interest to those of you who may be<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/07/so-you-want-to-move-to-rome-my-advice.html" target="_blank"> considering taking the plunge and moving abroad yourselves</a>, whether to Italy or any other country. We welcome questions and try to address them all on the air. If you already are an expat, and are currently in Rome, and you think you might have something to add to the conversation, let us know! We also interview other expats from time to time.<br />
<br />
There are two ways to listen to <i>The BitterSweet Life</i>. You can visit <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/" target="_blank">our website</a>, where you can either stream each podcast, or download them for later listening. Or you can find it on <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-bittersweet-life/id843351111?mt=2" target="_blank">iTunes</a>, where you can <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-bittersweet-life/id843351111?mt=2" target="_blank">stream, download, and also subscribe</a> so that you never miss an episode. We post new episodes every Monday morning, and they are about 20-30 minutes long, (perfect for your morning commute!). In our<a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-1-outset/" target="_blank"> first episode</a>, we discuss our first impressions on becoming an expat, and in our <a href="http://www.thebittersweetlife.net/podcast/episode-2-language/" target="_blank">second episode </a>we discuss language: both living nearly your entire daily life in a foreign language, as well as living in a country in which you do not speak the local language. We can't wait to get more episodes up, and we hope that you will enjoy them! If you do, please share with your like-minded friends, and let us know what you think!<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-34099740315476022792014-03-13T00:17:00.000+01:002014-03-13T00:17:54.711+01:00Twelve Months a Pope<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<![endif]--> AP/Alessandra Tarantino [<a href="http://www.canberratimes.com.au/act-news/canberra-mornings-live-thursday-july-11-20130710-2ppiy.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<br />
This post has been about a year in the making. I meant to write it right after Pope Francis was elected one year ago today, in order to share with you, my dear bloglings, what I experienced that unforgettable night. Honestly, I did.<br />
<br />
But the truth is, I was so sick and tired (mostly tired) of blogging by that point that I just couldn't face it. I kept putting it off and putting it off, until the papal election wasn't news anymore and there didn't seem any reason to write about it. But now everyone's favorite pope's first anniversary is here, and I finally have an excuse to write that post I've been meaning to write for so long.<br />
<br />
Now, before we go any further, I don't want you to think that I'm still sick and tired of blogging. That was a temporary thing. You see, when dear old Benny (remember him?)<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/a-popes-last-stand-final-papal-audience.html" target="_blank"> decided he'd had it</a> with the whole Supreme-Pontiff-of-the-Holy-Mother-Church/God's-Representative-on-Earth/Vicar-of-Christ/Must-always-Wear-White-no-Matter-the-Weather gig, I was swept up into a blogging (and <a href="https://twitter.com/ThePinesOfRome" target="_blank">tweeting</a>) frenzy. As Rome moved toward conclave it got even worse. I ate, slept, and drank nothing but conclave. I became obsessed, my friends,<i> obsessed</i>. I even got added to the <a href="https://twitter.com/HuffPostItalia/conclave2013/members" target="_blank">Huffington Post's list of conclave-related tweeps</a>. That's how bad it got.<br />
<br />
I'm sure you all know how long winded I am by now (case in point: this post), but my conclave-related blogposts defied all the rules of how long a post should reasonably be before you can assume your readers have given up and picked up <i>War and Peace</i> for some lighter reading. I blogged about <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/pope-celestine-v-other-pope-who-resigned.html" target="_blank">Pope Celestine V</a>, the only other pope who has willingly resigned, I blogged about <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/a-short-history-of-conclave.html" target="_blank">the entire history of the papal conclave</a>, which up till then had been my longest post ever, but then I topped myself just three days later when I blogged about<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/how-conclave-works-all-rules-and.html" target="_blank"> every single minute (and probably useless) detail and rule of conclave </a>that you have never wanted to know. What can I say, I was on a roll.<br />
<br />
Then exhaustion hit. After spending something like 15 hours straight on that last post, I didn't even want to see my computer, let alone turn it on (and conclave hadn't even officially started yet!). But then I thought about <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a>. Big-time journalist, mother of three, she was running around the city, live tweeting from press conferences at the Vatican, <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/2013/red-ribbons-scotch-tape-gold-rings-and-clunky-crosses/" target="_blank">interviewing the likes of Cardinal Timothy Dolan</a>, and <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/2013/waiting-for-smoke-signals/" target="_blank">doing chimney watch</a> from her perch atop Bernini's colonnade in St. Peter's Square, all the while baking red velvet cupcakes for her kids and hand-sewing them Carnival costumes. (OK, maybe I made that last bit up.) But still, I thought to myself, here is a woman with a crazy intense job, and three kids, and if she has the energy to blog about conclave every other night, surely I should have it to too.<br />
<br />
So I eked out one last post on the first day of conclave, listing some of the most likely <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013_03_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Papabili</a> to take home the big prize. I left out our dear Frankie--just as the experts did--although I did predict an Argentinian, let it be noted! If the conclave had gone on for several days (or even weeks) as many people predicted, I don't know what I would have done. But as it happened, Pope Francis was elected the very next day, and afterwards I promptly collapsed and didn't post again for well over a month. Meanwhile Mozzarella Mamma posted a <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/2013/a-birds-eye-view-of-the-election-of-pope-francis/" target="_blank">wrap-up</a> just two days later--how does she do it???<br />
<br />
Well, here, at long last, is mine. (Whoa, six paragraph preamble--I really need to learn the art of succinct blogging. Next time.)<br />
<br />
Everyone knew the pope wouldn't be elected on the first day of conclave. With only two scrutinies, that would have been unprecedented. But most people didn't think he'd be elected the second day either. Unlike when Benny was up for election and a complete shoe-in, no one had any idea who'd be elected this time around, and we all assumed it would take at least three days. All I knew was, I wanted to be there when it happened.<br />
<br />
I had missed the white smoke and first papal appearance back in 2005, and I wasn't going to miss it this time. Only problem was, I had tickets to the opera for the 3rd night of conclave, and I couldn't miss the chance of seeing Riccardo Muti conduct Verdi, especially as<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/10/200-years-of-giuseppe-verdi.html" target="_blank"> I had just interviewed him</a>. If that hadn't been the case, I might not have gone to St. Peter's Square on the 13th at all, assuming it was too early anyway and planed to go the next night.<br />
<br />
As it happened, I met my friend Jill (officially the most Catholic person I know) to take a leisurely stroll toward the Vatican around 5:30pm on Wednesday March 13th. Neither of us were expecting to see white smoke that night. When we arrived in the square, the atmosphere was jovial. Everyone was having a good time and no one could imagine the intense night that was ahead of them. Finally, at around 7pm, as we were milling about the back of the square, laughing with an American family we had just met, we noticed the smoke. At first it looked black, but nevertheless, just seeing the smoke was exciting, and everyone gasped gleefully. But then the smoke got grayer, and then it turned white. A collective whoop arose from the crowd as we realized we had a pope.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHalWUckF3uH531WWO0FT48VMMTtxLJYtrBYzx4JXYeMhsURIGyOqcmLWvCVoo6BpoclYTvwEBJI8uyAkYM4sCUiYFC5WU1WIXFIxdVVBydKnMdm0HlcWhJQtnFggOVwwjE6YapG4vqc/s1600/IMG_1641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHalWUckF3uH531WWO0FT48VMMTtxLJYtrBYzx4JXYeMhsURIGyOqcmLWvCVoo6BpoclYTvwEBJI8uyAkYM4sCUiYFC5WU1WIXFIxdVVBydKnMdm0HlcWhJQtnFggOVwwjE6YapG4vqc/s1600/IMG_1641.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The very first sight of the smoke. It still looked gray at this point. <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: IT; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">© Tiffany Parks</span></td></tr>
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<br />
Instantly everyone began pressing forward, and I knew what I had to do. I grabbed my friend's hand and took off, fighting to get as close to the Benediction Loggia as possible. How many times in your life do you get to see a newly elected pope appear on that legendary balcony? Not many, and I wanted a front-row seat.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you see the tiny puff of white smoke behind me?</td></tr>
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<br />
Being short has its advantages, and I was able to push and dodge and squirm my way up nearly to the very front of the metal barricades until finally we could get no further. I dug out my phone and texted my maritino, telling him to high-tail it over here. Jill assured me we had at least 40 minutes before the new pope would be announced. Even so, my maritino ran. It was raining by this time and he just put his head down and ran. He described to me later the streets of the city, traffic stopped, just full of people running, all running toward the Vatican. I don't know how but he got there in 15 minutes (usually it's a 45 minute walk).<br />
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the fray. White smoke clear as day. <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: IT; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">© Tiffany Parks</span></td></tr>
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<br />
Somehow in that crowd of tens of thousands of people, we managed to find each other. We also managed to secure a prime spot, just behind the statue of St. Peter (appropriate). The wait seemed eternal but at last we heard those historic words, "HABEMUS PAPAM." It gave me goosebumps, not because I am the world's biggest fan of the institution of the papacy, but because I knew I was witnessing a historic moment. When the name Bergolio was shouted, I was truly stumped. That wasn't one of the names I had painstakingly researched. The maritino was quicker, he shouted, "Argentino!" and I was happy just for that--without knowing anything about him--just that he was from South America. Just that was enough to make the election historic.<br />
<br />
We were so caught up in the announcement of who the new pope was, we completely missed his papal name at first. Then we heard far-off voices, Roman voices, shouting "Francesco! Francesco! Francesco!" Could it be? we asked ourselves. It's not possible that he chose <i>that</i> name. Another first.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pope Francis's first appearance. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
But the moment no one who witnessed it could ever forget waswhen our new pope appeared. After the deafening cheers quieted, the newly minted pope stepped out onto the balcony and, with a humble smile, uttered the two words no one had expected, "Buona Sera." As if he were just talking to old friends. The entire square gasped and then exploded into even more cheers.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
But surely the most moving moment was when he asked that, before he bless the crowd, (and give us all our hard-earned indulgences--no purgatory, yay!), that every person in the square should first bless him, and pray for him. He bowed his head with unimagined humility, and for a long moment that exuberant crowd of tens of thousands was absolutely silent and focused and reverent and it was powerful to be a part of.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I don't know how they managed to print this so fast. It was available before we left the square that night. <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: IT; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">© Tiffany Parks<span id="goog_63933620"></span><span id="goog_63933621"></span></span></td></tr>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comCittà del Vaticano41.902404805824624 12.45712280273437541.899450305824622 12.452080302734375 41.905359305824625 12.462165302734375tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-85774067405641419702014-03-09T07:40:00.000+01:002014-03-09T07:40:19.633+01:00Rome's Truly Hidden Gems: The Convent of Santa Francesca Romana<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US">Let me preface this post by saying that you know you're an art nerd when you get so excited about the once-a-year display of the frescoes of a little-known early Renaissance painter that you get up at 6:30 on a Sunday to see them (even when you've seen them twice before). So yes, I qualify. What about you? If you go nuts about Renaissance art, and you love to discover art that few people ever get the chance to see, then today is your lucky day.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Only in Rome, a city so bursting with
artistic and archeological treasures that a lifetime is literally not enough to
see them all, could there exist so many untold masterpieces hiding behind
closed doors. Take a stroll through the historic center, and chances are a
dozen or more world-class works of art will be just beyond your grasp, hidden away
in private collections, deconsecrated churches, or impregnable palaces. <br />
<br />
One place where this is definitely the case is the convent of Santa Francesca
Romana. Just around the corner from bustling Piazza Venezia, and a few steps
from the imposing Theater of Marcellus, the dull, brown two-story building is
unlikely even to spark your attention, let alone hint at the wonders lurking
inside. Closed to the public 364 days of the year, not many visitors to Rome are
granted access to its marvels, but if you happen to be in town on 9 March, you
are in luck. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Santa Francesca Romana was a 15<sup>th</sup>-century
Roman wife, mother, and noblewoman. Despite her elevated station in life, she
was known for her humility, piety, and strength of faith in the face of a
number of personal tragedies. She founded the religious institution the Oblate
di Tor de’ Specchi, where she became the Mother Superior after her husband’s
death, and was later canonized by Pope Paul V. Nearly 6 centuries later, the 9
March passing of this well-loved Roman lady is remembered every year with the one-day
opening of her convent to the public.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Don’t let the line stretching down the
street discourage you from visiting this extraordinary site. Unlike many
medieval buildings in Rome, the remarkable convent is completely untouched by
the advances of time. The interior walls were frescoed in 1468 by Antoniazzo
Romano, now considered the first great Renaissance artist of the Roman school.
The 25 bright and detailed panels, entirely covering the walls of the main room,
depict scenes from the life of the saint and provide an important visual
testimony to urban 15<sup>th</sup>-century Rome. To the further delight of
historians, each panel is accompanied by a caption written in an early example
of Rome’s vernacular dialect. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Don’t miss this chance to see this
well-preserved example of early Renaissance art in Rome, one of the city’s
truly hidden gems. But my advice is to get there early. Since 9 March falls on a Sunday this month, there are likely to be bigger crowds!</span></div>
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Here are a few images I snapped last year.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrH3uvRh41cMxfiFmRF92iHNQGPK9psusBLR5ha7jbot6eLGAFIAw58tAYYW4nzy_4HRnfIJRNgBAZvj0W6bTaLsHsqz2i2Ypi0QpGg1RAv9YBV7Sq8JhUQ986VxTNlvX-sVELLv4PEag/s1600/IMG_1588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrH3uvRh41cMxfiFmRF92iHNQGPK9psusBLR5ha7jbot6eLGAFIAw58tAYYW4nzy_4HRnfIJRNgBAZvj0W6bTaLsHsqz2i2Ypi0QpGg1RAv9YBV7Sq8JhUQ986VxTNlvX-sVELLv4PEag/s1600/IMG_1588.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIqczU78Gt_IRWeFWR1kTVE5igfuJow5TJ3kz_wseJ3di38WklTCkxtSW4UbvOyAnU9FXsU0hi3EL9Xc6YxSPOfyzC5cC6V33miEek6BVypHFGOy3cI4szLN4ynXOaBpAGVTu80lxjsE/s1600/IMG_1612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIqczU78Gt_IRWeFWR1kTVE5igfuJow5TJ3kz_wseJ3di38WklTCkxtSW4UbvOyAnU9FXsU0hi3EL9Xc6YxSPOfyzC5cC6V33miEek6BVypHFGOy3cI4szLN4ynXOaBpAGVTu80lxjsE/s1600/IMG_1612.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOIqaiYhsiUIfthwEjig8AsK06CwBsE7AD4vVvn5lV3E36fwWR7vhcm6tBpyFOS4HS-su6MMEv_VCAMqjnurha331hJ78N9t0zW9E5TYvTibIif25HKLBFFiJSdTXtCXGO09dOcMRNUzA/s1600/IMG_1614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOIqaiYhsiUIfthwEjig8AsK06CwBsE7AD4vVvn5lV3E36fwWR7vhcm6tBpyFOS4HS-su6MMEv_VCAMqjnurha331hJ78N9t0zW9E5TYvTibIif25HKLBFFiJSdTXtCXGO09dOcMRNUzA/s1600/IMG_1614.JPG" height="400" width="300" /> </a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Santa Francesca Romana was quite the healer. These frescoes are bloody, but in a good way. And it seems that everyone who had contact with the saint had a happy ending.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf4dUf1ehJjCzO8O7fYXVJDe8hvExVIOWo71VEDkUEfKyNyPB5PGRU_PtPd_dmT36TtN2v11EULBUObtCVESGJQ6-11-LzhfIOVFzZRJqq8m2-RM69TiRqKa7e8r_gKpbscmEY_RGIsnA/s1600/IMG_1599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf4dUf1ehJjCzO8O7fYXVJDe8hvExVIOWo71VEDkUEfKyNyPB5PGRU_PtPd_dmT36TtN2v11EULBUObtCVESGJQ6-11-LzhfIOVFzZRJqq8m2-RM69TiRqKa7e8r_gKpbscmEY_RGIsnA/s1600/IMG_1599.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR3cdLGoPCGVFATmf48-6VwN4VbJvBePi2_Megw0tZtFJLAC7jXfT8tS7yuQPigGOtbUIbFFTx02snhYsxHRll42Z12eQte-3RbCklzrqA7835e7ZdfxNH2WY1GoMLSi38JPf8rBhMo10/s1600/IMG_1609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR3cdLGoPCGVFATmf48-6VwN4VbJvBePi2_Megw0tZtFJLAC7jXfT8tS7yuQPigGOtbUIbFFTx02snhYsxHRll42Z12eQte-3RbCklzrqA7835e7ZdfxNH2WY1GoMLSi38JPf8rBhMo10/s1600/IMG_1609.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
Has this guy just gotten his legs waxed? Call me silly, but that is truly what it looks like.<br />
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</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-67349461339042194802014-02-18T13:03:00.000+01:002014-02-19T10:09:21.806+01:00Michelangelo's Rome, 450 Years LaterWhat better way to celebrate Michelangelo's long life and immense body of work, than spending the 450th anniversary of his death taking a tour of his works. If you're lucky enough to be in his hometown of Florence today, you'll have even more opportunity to do so. But here in Rome, where Michelangelo lived and worked for much of his life, there's still a lot to see.<br />
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It is not often that one of an artist's earliest works becomes appreciated as one of his greatest masterpieces, but such is the case with the Pietà, sculpted in the last years of the 15th century, when Michelangelo was barely 25 years old.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZrlG-9RV37b7AdPb04dpMPxGe1dlzxythnE0mBLnXMRbebg5pNdSkzoSKfHgylSS-1UkdPG1abMt02O4YzUj4KS1HM8oV8kzMGCZh9O3HxIcnMpUhT-2Q3z-jtUyRz_QewjUlmGTfmA/s1600/michelangelo-71.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZrlG-9RV37b7AdPb04dpMPxGe1dlzxythnE0mBLnXMRbebg5pNdSkzoSKfHgylSS-1UkdPG1abMt02O4YzUj4KS1HM8oV8kzMGCZh9O3HxIcnMpUhT-2Q3z-jtUyRz_QewjUlmGTfmA/s1600/michelangelo-71.jpg" height="311" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the Pietà, Michelangelo, St. Peter's Basilica, Rome [<a href="http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/michelangelo-vs-leonardo-da-vinci/images/33206311/title/michelangelos-drawing-libyan-sybil-photo" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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So much could be––and has been––said about this work, that I can't even scratch the surface in this little post, so I won't try. One curiosity is that it is the only work that Michelangelo ever signed, according to legend because he was frustrated that he was not receiving the proper recognition for the work, as he was new to Rome when he created it, and not yet well known there. He did this in secret, after the work had been completed and presented, and in fact, he was in such a hurry that he made a few mistakes! If you look closely you can see that he even misspelled his own name, leaving out a few letters and inserting them inside of others. I guess no one is perfect, although he came as close as anyone on Earth ever did, I'd wager.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfitC7EbfVSHIIv8_7jCPThGKrDxwdqX1lbApNtrW8CsbtstZb0GNMxf30oY-EoS1XyHhmiLj6EbdRvw6oj1h7blJjKnIn52SjlwfF4JLhzmuMe960TsF2UzDuC5rc1QS6gB44nd4BV7c/s1600/Michelangelo_Pieta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfitC7EbfVSHIIv8_7jCPThGKrDxwdqX1lbApNtrW8CsbtstZb0GNMxf30oY-EoS1XyHhmiLj6EbdRvw6oj1h7blJjKnIn52SjlwfF4JLhzmuMe960TsF2UzDuC5rc1QS6gB44nd4BV7c/s1600/Michelangelo_Pieta.jpg" height="351" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the Pietà, signature, Michelangelo, St. Peter's Basilica [<a href="http://www.wga.hu/art/m/michelan/1sculptu/2/4christ2.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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After a stint in Florence, during which Michelangelo sculpted the David, he was back in Rome and working, against his will, on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, from 1508 to 1512. There are probably close to 7 trillion blog posts about the Sistine Chapel, so I won't bore you with another, but I will post my absolute favorite image from the ceiling. This glorious lady is the Libyan Sybil, called Phemonoe, who foretold of the "coming of the day when that which is hidden will be revealed." I have stood in the Sistine Chapel over one thousand times, and of the some three hundred figures on the ceiling, this is the one that has struck me over and over.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8W4c4CEwwl0ajARcj6SBCN8wvqVf7Kx02cKY51j8zRLcAWuDFWQgUehuTgi5SadEBR9aocMvvT-Bsa0oOSf8oItWwlcrJ_r46C-WAD-0rJ2cG_5OPQdsLbBSLn5vRW1jIjNjPU7pbE8/s1600/Lybian+Sybil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8W4c4CEwwl0ajARcj6SBCN8wvqVf7Kx02cKY51j8zRLcAWuDFWQgUehuTgi5SadEBR9aocMvvT-Bsa0oOSf8oItWwlcrJ_r46C-WAD-0rJ2cG_5OPQdsLbBSLn5vRW1jIjNjPU7pbE8/s1600/Lybian+Sybil.jpg" height="400" width="382" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Libyan Sybil</i>, detail from the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Michelangelo </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.herbgreene.org/GREENE%20IMAGES/Paintings/ARTISTS/MICHELANGELO.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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Sometimes looking at a great artist's plans and sketches is more revealing that looking at the finished version. Here are Michelangelo's studies for the Libyan Sybil.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLNlg-7YYMl-VOtjxUWVIvaNhjfYBHykbtyhyFFIZiijig5zgUarGFIJFIuxUe11Vx_LB-JcjyzkR59pxy5DNgmpwWM-PVlvG88PR_WAen0kLFtK3spZ7XqlvnHzhcG8nwIU2ELbIPmmg/s1600/Sketch+of+Libyan+Sybil,+Michelangelo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLNlg-7YYMl-VOtjxUWVIvaNhjfYBHykbtyhyFFIZiijig5zgUarGFIJFIuxUe11Vx_LB-JcjyzkR59pxy5DNgmpwWM-PVlvG88PR_WAen0kLFtK3spZ7XqlvnHzhcG8nwIU2ELbIPmmg/s1600/Sketch+of+Libyan+Sybil,+Michelangelo.jpg" height="400" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Studies for the Libyan Sybil, Michelangelo [<a href="http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/michelangelo-vs-leonardo-da-vinci/images/33206311/title/michelangelos-drawing-libyan-sybil-photo" target="_blank">source</a>]</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The great tragedy of Michelangelo's life was that, due to forces beyond his control, he was never given the time and space to complete the tomb of Pope Julius II, the work that he believed was going to make his career and put him on the map. He of course couldn't know that he would one day be remembered as one of the greatest––if not the greatest––artists who ever lived, and he didn't need the tomb to prove that. His only completed figure of the planned tomb is the Moses, and it is only by standing in front it that you can get a true sense of its power and majesty. It is almost unbelievable that Michelangelo made drastic changes to this work, specifically changing the positioning of the left leg. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbUKiFlsoVQl-3hmNZwHnCr8Edc_zsiVCDsWkPJ8diMtI71Q4OngV6kna-251jcM-bCZHgC5K3QwcTsQWEVPUrRiKYg2QaaZfA5YIYOx9dKJkWohHelff5q00Z3voQOtT51Tr7zoMQn0/s1600/Moses,+Michelangelo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbUKiFlsoVQl-3hmNZwHnCr8Edc_zsiVCDsWkPJ8diMtI71Q4OngV6kna-251jcM-bCZHgC5K3QwcTsQWEVPUrRiKYg2QaaZfA5YIYOx9dKJkWohHelff5q00Z3voQOtT51Tr7zoMQn0/s1600/Moses,+Michelangelo.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Moses</i>, Michelangelo, San Pietro in Vincoli church, Rome [<a href="http://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/renaissance/deck/2128820" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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I love this whimsical drawing of what it might have been like to witness Michelangelo at work on the Moses. Somehow I doubt he would have had knights and nobles loitering around his studio while he worked, and since the work was sculpted between 1513 and 1515, this image makes the artist look a little old. But it does give you the idea of the size of the great work.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHkDX0IGSJh-Zr88Aa5PysJX-RmeSv71iKtyRF3z0TYxzZSJlTwPt74BdCKCZtK8ryemdOQzvwOO8qjxVL43qwT6-z-gNTkKNp9HUuLOdZtJgF8cA4bwH8371ryA0uuB6rWUV9y3HhyQ/s1600/Sketch+Michelangelo+creating+Moses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHkDX0IGSJh-Zr88Aa5PysJX-RmeSv71iKtyRF3z0TYxzZSJlTwPt74BdCKCZtK8ryemdOQzvwOO8qjxVL43qwT6-z-gNTkKNp9HUuLOdZtJgF8cA4bwH8371ryA0uuB6rWUV9y3HhyQ/s1600/Sketch+Michelangelo+creating+Moses.jpg" height="400" width="281" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.magnoliabox.com/art/266810/Michelangelo_creating_the_colossal_statue_of_Moses" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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It's impossible to call any work by Michelangelo "little known," but in Rome, at least this one might come close. After delighting in Gian Lorenzo Bernini's Elefantino in the piazza outside, venture inside the glorious Gothic church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva (with its starry blue ceiling that looks something like what the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel looked like before our hero got his hands on it), to find the Risen Christ, sculpted by Michelangelo between 1519 and 1521.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyE63HVHNvli0IDLh570LY3e2z5fLSDvDK0zU_tIntd1xgCi1GmMt_FKDjFCrinr1q0rpbXmbA6wLaFXOrxxFeNdCrRzHjwJYhGS-NwA-e0BoAHRxpbXg6mrVvLv0bC7ylgHeAZbDByI4/s1600/Risen+Christ,+Michelangelo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyE63HVHNvli0IDLh570LY3e2z5fLSDvDK0zU_tIntd1xgCi1GmMt_FKDjFCrinr1q0rpbXmbA6wLaFXOrxxFeNdCrRzHjwJYhGS-NwA-e0BoAHRxpbXg6mrVvLv0bC7ylgHeAZbDByI4/s1600/Risen+Christ,+Michelangelo.jpg" height="400" width="313" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Risen Christ</i>, Michelangelo, Santa Maria sopra Minerva church, Rome [<a href="http://www.wga.hu/html_m/m/michelan/1sculptu/2/4christ2.html" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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From 1536 to 1541, Michelangelo found himself back in the Sistine Chapel frescoing another colossal work of art. <i>The Last Judgement </i>is about as different from the chapel's ceiling as one work can be from another by the same artist. Sadly, by the 1530s, the Renaissance was over, and the Counter Reformation had come to Rome. What did that mean for art? Lots of hell and damnation to scare those naughty Protestants into coming back to the Mother Church. And it also meant that shortly after Michelangelo's death, this work would be vandalized by Daniele da Volterra (but don't blame him; he was forced to do it), who added lots of scarves and other modest coverings to some of the more scandalous figures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8OhaQW5XtBz7kF92S6MWN19xtdzZQZahax6R_9IjXY1O_kGgtZYY0bqQG9FnTRU1y5vqjQKs1C_e3hiqTvNdyAr4y0Jnr1pTyle8tfBZjIW8eZK4RSatjmEQKPmN3RLgAyldY6-Gtl4/s1600/Last+Judgement,+Michelangelo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8OhaQW5XtBz7kF92S6MWN19xtdzZQZahax6R_9IjXY1O_kGgtZYY0bqQG9FnTRU1y5vqjQKs1C_e3hiqTvNdyAr4y0Jnr1pTyle8tfBZjIW8eZK4RSatjmEQKPmN3RLgAyldY6-Gtl4/s1600/Last+Judgement,+Michelangelo.jpg" height="400" width="358" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Last Judgement</i>, Michelangelo, Sistine Chapel [<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Last_Judgment" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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Don't forget that Michelangelo was not only a sculptor and a frescoist; he was an architect too. Talk about a Renaissance man! From 1536 to 1546, more or less the same period he was working on <i>The Last Judgement</i>, Michelangelo was also redesigning the entire Capitoline Area, reversing the orientation of the square so that it turned its back on the ancient ruins of Rome's past, and looked instead toward the Vatican, and providing the Palazzo Senatorio with a new Renaissance facade. He also designed the glorious starburst pavement in the center of the square (which I love so much that I chose it as my wedding symbol), and which was not actually laid out as Michelangelo had desired until 1940.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-xbrpcQYiF7V3VO9G8rBqxP421OmYd6GJ5X0C_NhLpT8YDcnIBVUFzDcubqEk7lhnfX5dUPgrJ4aSqkjgYK7FAVevda-RiVBBI8juZGT6FvnD2SPZAUizJ-2DVFtTsv0WmKoHIn3EBco/s1600/michelangelo-capitoline-hill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-xbrpcQYiF7V3VO9G8rBqxP421OmYd6GJ5X0C_NhLpT8YDcnIBVUFzDcubqEk7lhnfX5dUPgrJ4aSqkjgYK7FAVevda-RiVBBI8juZGT6FvnD2SPZAUizJ-2DVFtTsv0WmKoHIn3EBco/s1600/michelangelo-capitoline-hill.jpg" height="400" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza del Campidoglio, Michelangelo, Rome [<a href="http://pyramidbeach.com/2011/07/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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In 1547, Michelangelo began designs for the dome of St. Peter's Basilica. This would be his last major work, and for the twelve years that he worked on it, he refused to receive any payment. He realized that his life was drawing to a close, and he chose to create this masterpiece for the glory of God alone, as a kind of final offering. Although the dome was not completed until after his death, his designs were adhered to with only a few exceptions.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYyZtz3P8Tv4odrtTYghJbLTNPafGTzugkCb3Z_E59V-eSUk2sL9A7YNJ_Ej7EPLan-aZjrj_5YQcvjhrlmIGMz80zAyphEpkaxa7_CVcDXKyWHGP40Xo_Z7SsERv3t6Ev5UnWATVGYg/s1600/Vatikan_Szent_Peter_kupola.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYyZtz3P8Tv4odrtTYghJbLTNPafGTzugkCb3Z_E59V-eSUk2sL9A7YNJ_Ej7EPLan-aZjrj_5YQcvjhrlmIGMz80zAyphEpkaxa7_CVcDXKyWHGP40Xo_Z7SsERv3t6Ev5UnWATVGYg/s1600/Vatikan_Szent_Peter_kupola.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dome of St. Peter's Basilica, Michelangelo [<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Vatikan_Szent_Peter_kupola.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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Michelangelo's very last project, built between 1562 and his death in 1564, is the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, an ingenious structure in which he created a Renaissance church out of a section of the ruins of the Roman bath complex, the Terme di Diocleziano. It is a stunning place to visit, however, some unfortunate "restorations" in 1749 by Luigi Vanvitelli take away significantly from the simple harmony of Michelangelo's design.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOfmqWixHObBzH8ABHtqe9xnogDJ8ELezDirqTZ0-vzBAU-LOJH92OA5z9P723qQUdBURQdnUs8FziReb5G9F6DWFXHtSRu0Veh9WYLtVH_LTGQUeXjzfNp4TJiUIyJOfFMyMhMeUmRE/s1600/6702590447_a238a50be7_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOfmqWixHObBzH8ABHtqe9xnogDJ8ELezDirqTZ0-vzBAU-LOJH92OA5z9P723qQUdBURQdnUs8FziReb5G9F6DWFXHtSRu0Veh9WYLtVH_LTGQUeXjzfNp4TJiUIyJOfFMyMhMeUmRE/s1600/6702590447_a238a50be7_o.jpg" height="238" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, Michelangelo, Rome [<a href="http://www.stay.com/rome/attractions/9149/santa-maria-degli-angeli-e-dei-martiri/" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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This list is not <i>quite</i> conclusive of the works by Michelangelo in Rome. To be exhaustive, I'd have to add Palazzo Farnese, a project Michelangelo took over after Antonio da Sangallo, the arch of Via Giulia, that was originally meant to be a private bridge across the Tiber, just for the Farnese family, to link their palace with their "country" home, Villa Farnesina, and of course the magnificent frescoes in the Pauline Chapel in the Vatican. The Pauline Chapel is, alas, not open to the public and its unlikely that it ever will be, as it is the pope's private chapel. But we can dream, right?<br />
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</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-15092927811827025952014-02-14T15:38:00.003+01:002014-02-15T08:55:37.007+01:00Art's Greatest KissesIs there anything more romantic than a kiss? In honor of the supposed <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/02/happy-belated-saint-valentines-day.html" target="_blank">most romantic day</a> of the year, here are a few of my favorite art works featuring that most amorous of all gestures. <br />
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I've been a life-long Toulouse-Lautrec fan; he was one of my absolute favorite painters when I was a young girl. But I have never had the pleasure of seeing this work live, as it is in a private collection. I suppose I'll just have to wait and hope it comes to an exhibition near me. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-GksIT9tlbcwGlb_AV74wOQfK6a2Vwx4KU6CJoEXon3_kvg62iP8HuTGezo3ot9RhX0zofyBlB3PA17Z1OFwdt3aC7uWttxBNpEJqj9NCxLCbh2IvAflCICk8_ELoseEopeVWnzGr0n0/s1600/800px-Lautrec_the_kiss_1892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-GksIT9tlbcwGlb_AV74wOQfK6a2Vwx4KU6CJoEXon3_kvg62iP8HuTGezo3ot9RhX0zofyBlB3PA17Z1OFwdt3aC7uWttxBNpEJqj9NCxLCbh2IvAflCICk8_ELoseEopeVWnzGr0n0/s1600/800px-Lautrec_the_kiss_1892.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Kiss</i>, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Private Collection</td></tr>
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I have loved this photograph since I was an adolescent. To me it was the epitome of romance, and represented all that I hoped would happen to me in my future (which I knew would undoubtedly take place in Europe). It was a great joy for me to see it at the <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/11/paris-in-black-and-white-photographs-of.html" target="_blank">Robert Doisneau exhibit</a> at Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Rome two years ago.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxMptNdSGe1lMCG6Yn9G7H4O-UIz9__iBY9Uu-Yx8kTevVj7Umq7_wExdGce7-5VSYWVyG5Rkjv9wOGCndXOGapwk_85Jq1tn2rJjqqigDAxTSFMVD-x-7N0xM_8m5ksPJBA_cOW72EU/s1600/doisneau_kiss.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxMptNdSGe1lMCG6Yn9G7H4O-UIz9__iBY9Uu-Yx8kTevVj7Umq7_wExdGce7-5VSYWVyG5Rkjv9wOGCndXOGapwk_85Jq1tn2rJjqqigDAxTSFMVD-x-7N0xM_8m5ksPJBA_cOW72EU/s1600/doisneau_kiss.jpg" height="316" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Kiss at Hotel de Ville</i>, Robert Doisneau, </td></tr>
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This sensuous work is going on exhibit along with 60 other pieces by Rodin at the National Roman Museum at the Baths of Diocletian. <a href="http://www.mostrarodin.it/comunicato-stampa.pdf">Rodin: The Marble, The Life</a> opens this Tuesday, 18 February.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2A799yYCrWXfr_iZ2s1azWpYE16QEif6epT_-ss0GJ8VOf4Tx-v8MhF5f8bTLG_y-_dYDxQKY_Dm8LvhjhKswjhicHtA7kpbyxASrAL4rFug_Y2S-sktuNA1bgXwKfh_-HGC9_FFtMCM/s1600/01+iL+BACIO+a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2A799yYCrWXfr_iZ2s1azWpYE16QEif6epT_-ss0GJ8VOf4Tx-v8MhF5f8bTLG_y-_dYDxQKY_Dm8LvhjhKswjhicHtA7kpbyxASrAL4rFug_Y2S-sktuNA1bgXwKfh_-HGC9_FFtMCM/s1600/01+iL+BACIO+a.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Kiss</i>, Auguste Rodin, Musée Rodin, Paris</td></tr>
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This the only work of art that has ever literally made me cry upon seeing it live. Of course, there is another story there, which actually has to do more with Schiele than with Klimt. Perhaps I'll blog about that memorable museum visit one day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfClSTcHLHnnKVgehpttrDjGFyGERKKaaeocr0oKbevZ-D6ZQM_F_thSSDaucCWaio4ArXxNdIfqYKrrNi9VnzyAIH3tnESn95HXHtCPOedwhvfkUgsbOdLpEcdCt_GbyuNoIhIRfSZfQ/s1600/Gustav_Klimt_016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfClSTcHLHnnKVgehpttrDjGFyGERKKaaeocr0oKbevZ-D6ZQM_F_thSSDaucCWaio4ArXxNdIfqYKrrNi9VnzyAIH3tnESn95HXHtCPOedwhvfkUgsbOdLpEcdCt_GbyuNoIhIRfSZfQ/s1600/Gustav_Klimt_016.jpg" height="400" width="398" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Kiss</i>, Gustav Klimt, Österreichische Galerie Belvedere, Vienna</td></tr>
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I don't think this next one needs any commentary.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJ9BtWwT7VHDBJ8_bzeAehSZbvZNFyoGL-cHoXh9zLCpn0YZzG4NQNhcyqY8q1wl9rkN6ld2_2z0UpGy25THu807lou5K0Twjd5lVPLuaP0rJftsh2mMj-N2f_3PaxmmqjtZwIu1XAWQ/s1600/Francesco_Hayez_008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbJ9BtWwT7VHDBJ8_bzeAehSZbvZNFyoGL-cHoXh9zLCpn0YZzG4NQNhcyqY8q1wl9rkN6ld2_2z0UpGy25THu807lou5K0Twjd5lVPLuaP0rJftsh2mMj-N2f_3PaxmmqjtZwIu1XAWQ/s1600/Francesco_Hayez_008.jpg" height="400" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Kiss</i>, Francesco Hayez, Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan<br />
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And last but not least, my absolute favorite, which is, in reality, a few centimeters away from being a kiss, but perhaps that makes it all the more exquisite. You can read more about these two lovebirds, Cupid and Psyche, <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/03/fable-of-cupid-and-psyche-at-castel.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/03/story-of-cupid-and-psyche-continues-in.html" target="_blank">here</a>, in two blogposts I dedicated solely to them. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSiu4HfzP6bahwuBJ5kggIBWwt3GPWoxw9KWci1KDeCR1FnutcoFJ2GXDLC5MdN2VM7jOiBvi4-ABVTZOtdQ2YRVzlkZ35GKoLKluS-W2gro7qa3kIKEfsWENft0qUR2oNKkYYqYIgWNw/s1600/800px-Psyche_revived_by_the_kiss_of_Love_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSiu4HfzP6bahwuBJ5kggIBWwt3GPWoxw9KWci1KDeCR1FnutcoFJ2GXDLC5MdN2VM7jOiBvi4-ABVTZOtdQ2YRVzlkZ35GKoLKluS-W2gro7qa3kIKEfsWENft0qUR2oNKkYYqYIgWNw/s1600/800px-Psyche_revived_by_the_kiss_of_Love_1.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Psyche Revived by the Kiss of Love</i>, Antonio Canova, Musée du Louvre, Paris</td></tr>
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Did I leave out any of your favorites?<br />
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<i>All images courtesy of <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Main_Page" target="_blank">Wiki Commons</a>.</i></div>
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</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-33589145229612364182013-12-23T13:22:00.001+01:002013-12-23T13:22:37.289+01:00Hand-made Panettone and other Italian Christmas Treats<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHpV3LABSFvSDqXlGzEHMa5XyLUOE7-X5gcgJVosUhn4dgrm0hcpBH6fSn4aYjdr_WrfFrcvQ_JSGATWboemWL8EMxudewX0x4iejqZCwnBeajH-IEjgnkUVUa8hyq32G07Kutejd9-M/s1600/IMG_1104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHpV3LABSFvSDqXlGzEHMa5XyLUOE7-X5gcgJVosUhn4dgrm0hcpBH6fSn4aYjdr_WrfFrcvQ_JSGATWboemWL8EMxudewX0x4iejqZCwnBeajH-IEjgnkUVUa8hyq32G07Kutejd9-M/s1600/IMG_1104.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roscioli bakery, all decked up for Christmas and ready to make some deliveries. Photo by author.</td></tr>
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It's almost Christmas and here in Italy that means one thing: time to stock up on <i>panettone</i>, <i>pan d'oro</i>, <i>torrone</i>, and all the other ubiquitous holiday sweets. And it isn't hard: everywhere you turn, from supermarkets to bakeries to pastry shops, stacks and stacks of these traditional Christmas desserts are just waiting to be snapped up by hungry, sweet-toothed shoppers. Some are becoming so famous that you can find them not just in Italy but around the world.<br />
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Here's a guide to Italian Christmas treats. <br />
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<b>Panettone</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX9s9CULXLzDiKr742Xj8O_9Uav9ehTyWasjv61ThW-JC3V_EOT7LibN0m5WJGLUtYbUZRtIkVzapCEm79gYQZLLVSAxzRIEE6YwyJA1XWMzYPTtRHmPqHKOJefK1FsxBbFdGAL6zbcHQ/s1600/IMG_1100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX9s9CULXLzDiKr742Xj8O_9Uav9ehTyWasjv61ThW-JC3V_EOT7LibN0m5WJGLUtYbUZRtIkVzapCEm79gYQZLLVSAxzRIEE6YwyJA1XWMzYPTtRHmPqHKOJefK1FsxBbFdGAL6zbcHQ/s1600/IMG_1100.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A baker at Roscioli taking freshly-baked panettoni out of the oven to cool. Photo by author.</td></tr>
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The most famous of the bunch, <i>panettone</i> (which translates roughly to "little big bread") originally comes from Milan. It has a dry cakey consistency and is dotted (unfortunately) with raisins and other bits of candied fruit. Despite being the most commonly found and supposedly popular Italian Christmas treat, I've never actually met someone who likes it (although the mini-version is undeniably adorable). These days, you can find versions without raisins, or better yet, with chocolate chips instead, and this is a vast improvement.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLjnfGZmz-duIX1G93w9kfOtq_7_KH4bOx8UoD09aRUnSUDKXrRPR-81i5J_baSlYTvS29_1ia3AnyYPSi8jpM6PfyRretNeMpL4KZJcUaP4Uwj-kBqdoqkUo-iNzeQWcvUA4MrAZX8k/s1600/Mini+panettoni.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirLjnfGZmz-duIX1G93w9kfOtq_7_KH4bOx8UoD09aRUnSUDKXrRPR-81i5J_baSlYTvS29_1ia3AnyYPSi8jpM6PfyRretNeMpL4KZJcUaP4Uwj-kBqdoqkUo-iNzeQWcvUA4MrAZX8k/s1600/Mini+panettoni.jpg" height="362" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/863653/mini-panettone" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Pan d'Oro</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" 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" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/2009/12/15/pandoro/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<i>Pan d'oro</i> ("bread of gold") is only slightly less popular than its raisin-filled friend. This star-shaped cake originally from Verona is a bit lighter, somewhere between the texture of a plain muffin and angel's food cake. Luckily, it has no raisins or other dried fruits lurking inside. The best part about eating <i>pan d'oro</i> is adding a liberal dusting of powdered sugar. You toss the entire cake into the big plastic bag it comes in, dump in the included packet of powdered sugar, and shake vigorously. My <i>suocero</i> (father-in-law) performs this task with particular gusto.<br />
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Torrone</b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3xOolrTuTFzycujUHTuAGZ7XfcfDS7xp1bVrOcXckOSCDTLIhhWSMXAFf9JAksIuANRcpAURkL9sFrS7dN00EJ2hPyiWhJniR4iigFVwJ11CXFzZBzJc5lULyqq3jF9rux0O1S7MbQ8/s1600/Torrone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw3xOolrTuTFzycujUHTuAGZ7XfcfDS7xp1bVrOcXckOSCDTLIhhWSMXAFf9JAksIuANRcpAURkL9sFrS7dN00EJ2hPyiWhJniR4iigFVwJ11CXFzZBzJc5lULyqq3jF9rux0O1S7MbQ8/s1600/Torrone.jpg" height="268" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.equilibrisensorialiblog.com/2010/12/14/i-migliori-torroni-pandori-e-panettoni-dove-comperarli/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Of the "big three," <i>torrone</i> is definitely my favorite. It is not a cake, but a candy, and it hails from the northern city of Cremona, where it was supposedly named after the famous medieval tower of that city (<i>torrone</i> means "big tower.") It's a long, rectangular candy bar made of egg whites, honey, sugar, and various kinds of nuts. Depending on the variety, it can be rock-hard or chewy and sticky. My personal favorites are the ones made with almonds and pistachios, and coated with chocolate. This chocolate coating is not strictly traditional, but the way I see it, when was the last time a dessert suffered from being coated in chocolate? Never, amirite?? They also sell <i>torroni</i> made entirely of chocolate and nuts, but as much as I enjoyed eating them, you can't really call them <i></i><i>torroni</i>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Panforte</b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxf9y_oeL9jugzYwlkb12qa5EGXCdJqvqjqN45rRKTOdPhW6HQ8aQoK_lXlWj_wODpINxSYdQqm41hhaRz9zYfAtJ-gcms9K_-pvrhBktceFCL7hl0dtvk8ErP2fH3-8F6RSd-YvNq48/s1600/panforte-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxf9y_oeL9jugzYwlkb12qa5EGXCdJqvqjqN45rRKTOdPhW6HQ8aQoK_lXlWj_wODpINxSYdQqm41hhaRz9zYfAtJ-gcms9K_-pvrhBktceFCL7hl0dtvk8ErP2fH3-8F6RSd-YvNq48/s1600/panforte-10.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.tar-tryin.com/tag/panforte/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Now, if<i> torrone</i> and <i>panettone</i> got together late one night after closing time in the bakery window and reproduced, the result would be <i>panforte</i>, although in this case I don't think that coupling was wise. This "strong bread" from Siena is the closest thing to a true fruitcake that you can find in Italy, and the best part about it is that it's relatively small. Because, honestly, does anyone actually like fruitcake? Chewy, nutty <i>panforte</i>'s only saving grace is that it is spicy (it used be called <i>panpepato</i>, "peppered bread").<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Ricciarelli</b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TnC6QBYa54BtZziX78LvSoEfrMxQ16W5rnCSgJ3K-0ObLwo9xhm3cImZeTH7rBcaQt-Y8plhkEY_ZEB8MOrwd_zHZtiY0XOCNEO0JE9PgAhVGvOZ_1GvtQzW4JBSJnnw1bq03DM_4R0/s1600/Ricciarelli_from_Siena-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8TnC6QBYa54BtZziX78LvSoEfrMxQ16W5rnCSgJ3K-0ObLwo9xhm3cImZeTH7rBcaQt-Y8plhkEY_ZEB8MOrwd_zHZtiY0XOCNEO0JE9PgAhVGvOZ_1GvtQzW4JBSJnnw1bq03DM_4R0/s1600/Ricciarelli_from_Siena-2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ricciarelli" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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Now we're getting to the good stuff. <i>Ricciarelli</i>, named after the famous opera singer <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-1MjfmixrI" target="_blank">Katia Ricciarelli</a> (not really), are little lozenge-shaped cookies that date back to 14th-century Siena. Like all the best Italian cookies, their main ingredient is almond paste and they are covered with powdered sugar. They are simple, delicate, and delicious, and like a good Italian transplant, I happily had several this morning for breakfast.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Cartellate</b></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddZhqDDKWuvMFQkwgRZtKrCWs2i47RKujzpSbJcQsv_CYg-sJKvXCgZuDimus520RprjCLH_IP8j839_r0UBNAX9YAU4wLztbJqpHoOYOf6iIIIfqVPPFkyJRcM7xUuEeisXLfJGg3k4/s1600/December+2010+230%5B21%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddZhqDDKWuvMFQkwgRZtKrCWs2i47RKujzpSbJcQsv_CYg-sJKvXCgZuDimus520RprjCLH_IP8j839_r0UBNAX9YAU4wLztbJqpHoOYOf6iIIIfqVPPFkyJRcM7xUuEeisXLfJGg3k4/s1600/December+2010+230%5B21%5D.jpg" height="291" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://ciaochowlinda.blogspot.it/2010/12/cartellate.html" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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From the southern regions of Puglia and Basilicata come <i>cartellate</i>. These seriously sinful sweets are made from cooked wine, cinnamon, honey, and sugar, and deep-fried to a golden brown. I have never tried these southern Christmas treats, but after reading about them (and how to make them) on<a href="http://ciaochowlinda.blogspot.it/2010/12/cartellate.html" target="_blank"> Ciao Chow Linda's blog</a>, I'm tempted to brave the mad two-shopping-days-left city just to try and find some! <br />
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<b>Buccellato</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-s3incJQkuLgW2sLrgZfXKrmcl0S7pSlam2XVPjFjyW0Geo_I8F47khP4UlrjmNd5NrkIE4Oi60CsomEQsqOGZwKXB8Kkj_kmi9Wj-qbHLqWj73By6SBg6HeTcDrph18lSnF-7K_z9Y/s1600/Il-Buccellato-Palermitano-Le-Ricette-di-Nonna-Gilda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-s3incJQkuLgW2sLrgZfXKrmcl0S7pSlam2XVPjFjyW0Geo_I8F47khP4UlrjmNd5NrkIE4Oi60CsomEQsqOGZwKXB8Kkj_kmi9Wj-qbHLqWj73By6SBg6HeTcDrph18lSnF-7K_z9Y/s1600/Il-Buccellato-Palermitano-Le-Ricette-di-Nonna-Gilda.jpg" height="205" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.misilmeriblog.it/?id=45365" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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This wouldn't be an Italian dessert round-up without a nod from Sicily, island that, quite frankly, I wouldn't be surprised to discover was made entirely of sugar. Their signature Christmas treat is <i>buccellato</i>, a ring-shaped cake made of <i>pasta frolla</i> (a light and exquisite pastry dough) and filled with dried figs, orange peel, and chocolate chips. A second version is filled instead with almond paste and dried pumpkin.<br />
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<b>Struffoli</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ojNWXjSwMiX0bN_avedOywonvoSVXoJUaJFrv8JSgOYxTTtkzmKYDV1F9LetnhbRD0EiPnP1OYc2Oot9ghNAPzaYL4fQBA0C7_Olg-KOtieZKF_RDVNihtOXQI0zU178jBys4ESBn5U/s1600/struffoli-photo5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ojNWXjSwMiX0bN_avedOywonvoSVXoJUaJFrv8JSgOYxTTtkzmKYDV1F9LetnhbRD0EiPnP1OYc2Oot9ghNAPzaYL4fQBA0C7_Olg-KOtieZKF_RDVNihtOXQI0zU178jBys4ESBn5U/s1600/struffoli-photo5.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[<a href="http://www.charmingitaly.com/article/struffoli-campania" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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And last, but certainly not least, the unbeatable Christmas treat from Naples. My <i>suocera</i> (mother-in-law) is from Naples, and she makes <i>struffoli</i> every year, so I'll be consuming it in large quantities starting tomorrow. <i>Struffoli</i> are basically tiny balls of sweet dough, deep-fried and coated in honey, and then covered with colored sprinkles and bits of candied fruit. All I can say is, it's incredibly addicting and I can't wait for tomorrow.<br />
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And with that, dearest bloglings, I leave you with your mouths watering while I rush out to do my Christmas shopping (procrastinate much?). Which of these treats is your favorite, and did I leave anything out? <br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-7154080329856104642013-10-10T10:45:00.000+02:002013-10-10T13:55:43.856+02:00200 Years of Giuseppe Verdi<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWILM8Kdh6JXGeTSSirVPi1yUX4s-uT9z5obug5qa68xx6M42OJ3W-D5bRZkun882UDQYNmq4GZSwAhkOpHW24r2Yw-LAF3UgiISe9qG-cQn7dGQZykB8QHZ24svMs49Y09ZKP6b8lFtg/s1600/1813024-verdi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWILM8Kdh6JXGeTSSirVPi1yUX4s-uT9z5obug5qa68xx6M42OJ3W-D5bRZkun882UDQYNmq4GZSwAhkOpHW24r2Yw-LAF3UgiISe9qG-cQn7dGQZykB8QHZ24svMs49Y09ZKP6b8lFtg/s400/1813024-verdi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of Giuseppe Verdi portrait, Giovanni Boldini, 1886. National Gallery of Modern Art, Rome. [<a href="http://www.lanazione.it/montecatini/cronaca/2013/02/17/846656-statua_onorare_giuseppe_verdi_finanziamenti_dello_stato.shtml" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Today is an important day for all Italians,
as opera composer Giuseppe Verdi, one of Italy’s best-loved national heroes,
was born 200 years ago today, on 10 October 1813.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">For Italians, Verdi is much more than just
an opera composer. He is the man who wrote the soundtrack of the Risorgimento,
the decades-long struggle for Italian unification and independence. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">As someone who prefers the music of Puccini
to Verdi hands down (I’ve received a lot of flack for this from Italians over
the years), I didn’t always get the connection between Verdi and Italy. When I
first arrived in Rome, still plenty wet behind the ears, someone explained to
me that every true Italian prefers Verdi’s operas to Puccini’s. While I adore
Verdi as well, Puccini, with his passionate, flowering, uber-Romantic melodies,
was to my mind much more the embodiment of the Italian soul. Verdi was Grand
Opera with a capital G. His operas tell the stories of kings and queens, grand
passions and grand ideals, with massive choruses and formidable heroines. It’s
all a trifle distant from the real world of Italian experience. Clearly, I
didn’t get it.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTOVopEWNEKCIRtZccrU7uKyzunKJx_2Yv7opITmRsul58UJY9kwqGYEbW96JgLAUuMo7CSlpXbONVwz2spOv_GXKNsimJR_v3BGaFMCGnfhZtFyr_anrFuXLtNd5iPI_CKYDmU6QflM/s1600/Giuseppe-Verdi-9517249-1-402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTOVopEWNEKCIRtZccrU7uKyzunKJx_2Yv7opITmRsul58UJY9kwqGYEbW96JgLAUuMo7CSlpXbONVwz2spOv_GXKNsimJR_v3BGaFMCGnfhZtFyr_anrFuXLtNd5iPI_CKYDmU6QflM/s400/Giuseppe-Verdi-9517249-1-402.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of Giuseppe Verdi. [<a href="http://www.biography.com/people/giuseppe-verdi-9517249" target="_blank">Source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">As heavenly as Verdi’s music is (<a href="http://www.thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/09/viva-venerdi-addio-al-passato.html" target="_blank"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Traviata</i>’s “Addio al Passato”</a> is, in
my opinion, his most beautiful and heart-wrenching piece), Italians’ love for
Verdi isn’t really about his music at all. It’s about his role as a patriot,
someone who, through his music and through his political actions, fought to
bring Italy together. Even the letters of his name became an acronym for the
dream of the unification of Italy, as revolutionaries scrawled “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Viva VERDI</i>!” on walls, secretly
expressing their support for the man who would go on to become united Italy’s
first king, <a href="http://www.thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/09/viva-venerdi.html" target="_blank">Victor Emanuel Re D’Italia (V-E-R-D-I)</a>. </span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">Verdi’s slave chorus <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/01/viva-venerdii-i-was-at-no-1-music-event.html" target="_blank">“Va’Pensiero” from <i>Nabucco</i></a> is the
unofficial Italian national anthem, a hymn almost any Italian alive could sing
on the drop of a hat if asked, a song that represented to Italians in the
mid-1800s their own loss of freedom to the Austrians who ruled northern Italy
at that time. I'll never forget the night, back in March of 2011, when I attended <i>Nabucco</i> in Rome on the 150th anniversary of the Unification of Italy, when Maestro Muti asked the audience to sing along with "Va' Pensiero." I wrote about it <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/01/viva-venerdii-i-was-at-no-1-music-event.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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" 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JJp8ci7W9p4jRB4VbTi9Q6K5+51O8CUjhWTMN+TB/kWEDMfjO0HC4nEbA0BrQAALAAWAA0AA6AsbCcNjpoY4IW5Y42hjR2DrPSTxJ6SVloC6yRhwIcAQRYgi4I6iF2RBr8MwSmp7mnpoYb8eTjYy/flAWwREBERAWPU0EUhBkiY8jgXNa4juuNFkIg4AtoFyiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgKB70t30eJQl8YDKuMXjfoM4GvJvPV1HoPZe88RBVu57b91SDQ1pIq4bgF+jpQzRwdf8Y22o4kC/Q5Wkq63ibsW1sgqqSX3tWNsc4uGyFvNLi3VrhYWeLnTgdLRuDediOGObBjFE544NmjsC8DpHxJDw4FpF9dUF0otBsrtlR4g0mlmDnAXdGfBe3vaejtFx2rfoCIiAiIgrPcE++HzBzbSisl5UHjnLYzr5tPMrMVV4UfuPjMsUrv4ribjLE88GT5iTGern2v2x9trUQEReNTVRxi8kjWDrc4AetB7ItBPtthrL5sQpbjiBMwkeYFYQ3j4aeZO+T6OCd49LYyEEsRRhm3VKdRHVnuo6r/AG1wNuYPyeu/qdT+4glCKNffvTdMVYO+jqtP7NY8u8jDWeMnkj+kp6hg9LowEEtRRiDeFhb+GIU48p4b9qy3dLi0EgvHURPB1GV7XewoMxERARFg47iQpqaadwuIYnyEDicjS6w77WQUltXvCOHY9VSQxNkYY2RSszZeUexgIeXAHwml2XhwBHarJ3b4C+KN9ZVC9bWHlZifiNPi4m9Qa22nXprYL5pwV5qsRhMtnOnq2GS/AmWYZrjtzFfZCAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAi6veACSQAOJOgC09dtbQQ+NrqdvYZWX8wBuUG6RRZ23dO7xEFZUdXJUstj+e9rWee9l3bjVfJ4rDOTHQaqdkf6sQlPpsgkyKNwU+KvJ5WopIB1QxSSu+vI9o/UXZ2zUjz8NiVY8fJY6OFvphjbJ+ugkLnAC5IA6ytFiO2eHwXEtdTtI4t5RrnfVaS71Lw+8LDybyU/LHrnklm/vXOW4oMJp4BaGniiHVGxrPsgIIw7eVSuNqeCtqT1Q00vTw54bbvK86jbDEXfg+BVDvppoofVdynCIK4k2i2hv4OCQgdtTEfXygWFXbbY7AM02BgtHHkn5z+oX+mytREFb7Ib46Kre2KZrqWZxsA83jc7qElhY+UG9WpU7xjCYaqF0NRG2SN4sWu9oPEEdBGoVcb79iKeWklrY2NjqIQHucBblW3AcH24uA1B46W4cN7uZxKWfCYHTOLnNL4w48XNY8tbc9NgMt/moKS2+2QqMEq2TU8j+SLs0Ew5zXDjG8jTMB2WcCe0C9d2O2YxOkEjgGzxnJM0cM1tHN+a4a9hBGtrrdbUYDFXU0lNMPBeND0scOa9vaDr6uBVC7oKiXDsafRTacpngeOjMwF8bx13y2HZIg+j0REBERBW3ugGt+5RLoi8iaPK4fiiSbvPYRdne8KqME3rYkGxU765sMYs0zuhEr2tHS4WJfppwv2r6dlia5pa5oc0ixBFwQeIIPEKDYzuhwqfMRTmFzvjQvc23cw3YPqoNXgGAMrbPdtHU1R4ltPK2EWPQ6NpJHqUhpN2WFscXmjbI88XTOfKT3h7iPUqwx3cRUxnPRVTZLG4bJeN46rOFwT2+ConW4tj2GODZpquHoHKOMkZtfRpdmYfMg+naHCKeEAQ08UYHDIxrfYFmr5owje/jOuXJUZRc3hvYdvJ5dO1biDfxWM8dQwk9OUyM9uayC/0VGR+6DPxsNB7qi3+ks3+EBB+Qy/pG/sQXMipn+EBB+Qy/pG/sXV/ugYeigkPfK0f5SgtyqwqCTxkET/LY13tC0lVu9wuTR2H048hgZ9iyrt3ugGfFw55P0wH+mVy3fw883CXn+mP+ygmbd1mHs8QKin7YaiZvtcV1+8WqjFqfG65vVyxZPb6wCijN9dS7m4JMe6R59kK9Y97WIu5mAVB7uVPshQb2TB9oYj8FidJUD/zw8kR3CNpv5yq43kbe4tG2XD62GmjMjBd8Qd4UZPFhLyLHKRqL8eCkOK71MXjY55wR8TWgkvkZMWt7XHK0AecKsdpIMSxBkmKzwkwmw5QWaxoa4RgMaTfKHaaX1vc3ug1OyVWYa2mlETpjHMx4jYLuflcDZoHTpovo+LenTgXmosQgA4mSmdl9LSfYvm/ZWKqdVxChaTUh148oaSC0E38LwbAAm50V0QYDtXILur4o9ODnMuPqREetBL6XezhD+FaGn58crfWW29a3FLtrh0lgzEKUk8ByrAT3AkFVdiW6LFKwtNbiUT7cNHOtfss1e1B7n+IeOr3u7I4wz1uc6/oQXJFVMcLte1w6wQQuk1dEznysb5TgPaVWsO4nDQNZKpx6y9g9kawqzcFSG/JVdQzqzhj7egNQWFPtlhzNHYhSgjiOWjuPMHXWuqN5uEs418Rt8kOd9lpVZ1XufpR4vEI3eXE5nsc5aKu3H4owEs5CXqDJLE/Xa0etBbT98OE3AbUPeT0Nhlv62hG70In+Jw3EpuosptPSXLUYHjeI0UbY3bNBgAsTSyR2JHE5GhxPncT2rNfvdij/CcNxCDtfDoPS4H1INodrK9/icDqD9NNDF6dXH1FcyVmOSD4OkoIPpp5JLfo2BYdPvjwhw8KpezsdDL/AJWlbWm3i4U/m4hAPKdk+1ZBjuwzGpBZ2I0kB64aYvt3cpJb0hd/vPqHj4fGK5x6eS5GAHr5kdx6VtIdrsPdza+lPdNH+8suLGqZ3NqYXd0jD7Cgjp3aYe4gzsmqXA3BqJ5pNe4uyn0Ld4XszR0xvT0kETvlMjaHfWtf1rPbWxnhIw9zh+1ezXA8Cg5REQEREBERAREQEWrx/aKlomcpVTsib0Zj4TuxrR4Tj3AqCv2lxPFfAwyE0dKeNZOPCcOuFnaOB172lB574ceM4bhFEOVqqhzeUDfxTAQ/wyObewJ6mgk8Rec7H4E2ho4KVpzckyxd8pziXPI6gXOJssHYrYmnw5riwulnk1lnk1kkJNzr0C+tvSSdVvK/E4IRmmmjiA6ZHtaPWUGWqP24oQ3aqhMYs6QQSPt0lr5Gk/UiHoUzxXerRtcYqJstfPwEdO1xF+2S1svDVuay8NiNlqmSsfiuJtaypcMkEIIIgZYtuSCfCIJHHTM4nV1mhYiIiAiIgIiIC6TQte0te0OaeIcAQe8Fd0QROr3dYe54kjgNNI3g+le6Ai/0ZA9S4dg2Jwj+L4gyoaODK2IE+eaHKfOWlS1EEMO0NXDf33g8hA/GUjmTg9uQ5ZAOyxXpT7d4U52R87IHjiyojdCR38o1o9al68KyijlblljZI35L2hw9BCDypOQkGaLkng9LMpB84WQKdnyG+gKMVO7fDHuDxRtieODoXPhI7uTc0LqzYks8RieIR9QMzZWjzSsd7UEsDR1LlRb7lYpH4vEoZeoVFKL+d0T2D9VdDWYyznUlDP8ARzyRk+Z8ZAPnKCWIogNq6xg+HwWqH0MkE3os9p9S4ZvDgAvLSYhB18rSS6edocEGu361ro8IlDb/AAj44yR0NLsx9OS3nXG11A2HZt8QsQyjjb3kZNfOdVr94O22FVmHVUHvocoYi5jHRyscZGeHGAHNHFzQPOo9U7Z00uzBhNQz3y2FkJiLgJDklY0EN4uGQA3F9L9RQab3OdHmxCaS2kdOR3Oe9gHqDl9GKmPc10AENXP0vkZGNRwjaXHTj+NHoCudAREQEREBERAREQeUlMx3OY094BWvqNmaKTxlFTP8qGM+1q2qINC/YrDSLHDqTzQRj1hq19Ruywl+poIh5Je31NcFLkQQQ7oMH/Iz+mm/fXA3P4P+SO/TTfvqWV2OUsPjqqCL6SRjftELX/frQnxdQJvoGvmP9k1yDVs3XYaObFM3uqJx/nXb/wBNKHoNSO6pn/fWxO0r3eIw+skv0uYyADW2onex/oaVw+qxN/MpaSIdck8j3DT5DIgPNnQYI3d0w5tRXN7qub95eUu7ph5mJ4pH5FW7/MCsqTCMVktnxOKEdIp6UX8zpXvt6EGwzH/hNbXVF+IfUOjb9SHIEGtqtl4acEzY9iEYtxlrI2gdvhMCjdVidK0lkGO4rUvHxKcCd2vDwhFl9asPD9jMPh1joYAflFjXO+s67vWt4xgAsAAOoIKTmpccmLfeDsTY0nwn1z4GaW0+DAze3uW+wrYzHXD+M44Y+sRMzm3lEMsfMVaCIKqduShdIJZcRrHygh3KFzS641BuQTcHtW2O7R5PhY1ip/8AkW/wU/RBBo919NYiWrr5/pal+n1Q1ZWH7scKiNxRMeeN5S6S/meSPUpeiDxpaSONuWONjGjoY0NHoC9kRAREQEREBERAREQEREBERAREQEREBERBj1tFHMwsljbIxwILXAEEHQ6FfNGJUNNT4XiED44zUQ4lyUT3BvK5NOBtmy2icerVfT6+a95WyMr8f5EMcG1ksbmOAJ0cGiV35pDyeoWPSgsLdju+oXYZTSVFKySWRpkLzcOs8ksAINwMmX19aljNg6Ic1s7PIqqpo8wEtlIKSmbFGyONoaxjQxrRwDWgBoHcAF7II4NjogfBqa4W6PftSR6DIV3+9g/Fr64f0rXfaYVIEQaA7PTdGKVo81KfbTrg4DU9GLVfnjo//wA6kCII27Aq3oxefzwUp/0guDglfbTFnd7qaA+wBSVEEeGDVvTij/0EH7qNwKr6cWqPNFSD2wlSFEEe+9yc87Fa09wpW+yBcferfnV9c7+mDfsNapEiCON2Mg+PNWvHzq2q/wAJAu/3lUB0fTNk+mc+X+8c5SBEGsodnaOHxNHTx+RExvsC2QC5RAREQEREBERAREQEREBERAREQEREBERB/9k=" 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<span lang="EN-US">Earlier this year, I had the honor of
interviewing the greatest Verdi conductor alive today, Maestro Riccardo Muti. For
those of you who know my operatic past, this was a very, very big deal for me. I
chatted with the Maestro about the importance of Verdi to Italians, the future
of opera in Italy, a country that has been de-funding its cultural institutions,
and the Maestro’s plans for the Rome Opera, of which he has recently become the
Honorary Conductor for Life.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The interview appeared in the March 2013
issue of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">WHERE Rome</i> magazine, but I’ve posted an excerpt of it here in honor of Verdi’s 200<sup>th</sup> birthday. (You can see the PDF version of the <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6JfpXwm1LDSaXhycnkxTUI3X2s/edit?usp=drive_web" target="_blank">full interview here</a>.)</span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">T.P.: Who is
Verdi to you? Do you consider him a musician or a national hero?</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">R.M.: Verdi is
one of the greatest pillars of operatic music. He represents the soul, not just
of Italy, but of all humanity. People in every corner of the world, from
Australia to America, Canada, or Africa, can find elements in Verdi’s music
that speak to their very heart and soul. In this sense, he is one of the most
universal composers in the history of music. As a national hero, Verdi was a
man who, through his music and his ideals of democracy, freedom, and equality,
helped to ignite the hearts of Italian revolutionaries during the Risorgimento,
undoubtedly contributing to the unification of Italy.</span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">T.P.: Historically,
opera in Rome has developed less rapidly than in other Italian cites, such as
Milan and Venice. Since you have come to the helm of the Rome Opera, however,
it has begun receiving wider acclaim, for example, the extraordinary triumph of
this season’s opener, </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">Simon Boccanegra<i>. What is your plan for bringing Rome to the highest
possible level of operatic greatness?</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="letter-spacing: .1pt; mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: .5pt;">R.M.: It’s important to note that Rome has had great
opera houses, such as the Apollo, the Valle and the existing Teatro Argentina,
which predate the current Teatro Costanzi, and also that Verdi had a strong and
active relationship with Rome. Rome’s present opera house may have a shorter
history than Italy’s historic theaters, like La Fenice or La Scala, but the
Teatro Costanzi has a history of many important conductors as well as premieres,
including <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tosca</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cavalleria Rusticana</i>. Then followed a
period of decline, during which it attracted less public attention. It is now
experiencing a strong revival because the orchestra, chorus, and technicians
have enthusiastically reattained past levels of brilliance, although it has
been an uphill battle. Of course, the credit does not go to only one person; it
is all about teamwork. Everyone is contributing; for example the orchestra has
been performing symphonic concerts with major conductors, doing some excellent
work. All this raises the level of the company and gives the public new faith
in the quality of the opera house, and the most important thing is that the
public see the theatre as a house of culture, art, and music. Once that
happens, progress becomes easier.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA; mso-font-kerning: .5pt;"></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">T.P.: No
tourist would come to Rome without visiting the Sistine Chapel or the
Colosseum. Would you suggest a tourist also attend an Italian opera, perhaps by
Verdi, to get a complete picture of Italian culture and history?</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">R.M.: In recent
years, opera has enjoyed an increasingly positive reputation at the
international level. When tourists come to Rome, a city thousands of years old,
it’s natural that the ancient sites and museums will immediately grasp their
attention, b</span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ut if people come to learn of the history of Rome’s opera
house––for example, that </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">it hosted <span class="hps">the premiere of Puccini’s</span> <span class="hps"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tosca</i>, one of the</span> <span class="hps">most performed operas</span> <span class="hps">of all time and</span> <span class="hps">known to all</span> <span class="hps">music lovers</span> <span class="hps">around the world</span>––more tourists <span class="hps">will visit our</span>
<span class="hps">theater.</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"> However, I am confident that, little by little, this will occur.<span class="hps"></span></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">T.P.: In
light of heavy cuts to cultural funding in Italy, as well as the economic
crisis in general, is there a risk that opera––an integral part of Italian
culture––is increasingly becoming a privilege reserved for the elite?</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">R.M.: People were
asking that even when I was a child. Of course, the arts have always been of
greater interest to those who have the financial resources to attend
universities or academies, and so in that sense there is a cultural elite. The
solution then would be a cultural education that begins in primary school, in
which all children, regardless of their financial situation, would have the
privilege to learn about one of the most important and foundational pillars of
our history and our country, namely, music. </span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Italy's
contribution to</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <span class="hps">music is centuries old, and an
understanding</span> <span class="hps">of it is</span> <span class="hps">essential</span>
<span class="hps">to create</span> <span class="hps">a society in which</span> <span class="hps">classical music</span> <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">available
to everyone.</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">
Otherwise, it’s inevitable that this privilege will become reserved for a few
devoted fans and those who have the financial means to attend the opera. It’s a
matter of education, which is the duty of the state. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">T.P.: What
kind of non-classical music does Maestro Muti listen to?</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">R.M.: I have three
children, so when they were young I listened to many different genres of music
at home, although I didn’t have the time to really study them. Of course, when
I was a kid I remember adoring the Platters, and now, when my five-year-old
grandson is in the car, he always asks to hear their hit <i>Only You</i>. They
were amazing. Over the years, I've been struck by other singers, for example
the Beatles were a brilliant group. I've always been fascinated by a voices
like Céline Dion and the late Whitney Houston, although less for the content of
their music than for the beauty of their voices.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD336h9N9YOecBrMhP8htlkqDBJSSRLWLXZ2g2IMXm2B3OAejimOEOfVO3OwceR0GTgeTKD6qRJJ8JZKGP7Vug1Fc6msAnXaqAFLzaoIPUFmDv8VS5h-HPIPq_3TlGAiXA9oRrGKxc2vU/s1600/Tiffany+and+Riccardo+Muti.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD336h9N9YOecBrMhP8htlkqDBJSSRLWLXZ2g2IMXm2B3OAejimOEOfVO3OwceR0GTgeTKD6qRJJ8JZKGP7Vug1Fc6msAnXaqAFLzaoIPUFmDv8VS5h-HPIPq_3TlGAiXA9oRrGKxc2vU/s400/Tiffany+and+Riccardo+Muti.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Maestro Riccardo Muti after a performance of Verdi's <i>I Due Foscari</i> at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><i>**This interview has been translated from Italian.**</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-26786555548760572902013-10-04T13:30:00.002+02:002013-10-04T13:30:45.332+02:00Five Ways to Celebrate St. Francis’s Feast Day in Italy
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Day after Pope Francis's election, Piazza San Francesco a Ripa.
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">©</span>Tiffany Parks</span><style>
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<span lang="EN-US">Since I live on a street dedicated to St.
Francis of Assisi, and since I can see a church dedicated to St. Francis of
Assisi right out my bedroom window, and since my darling <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Maritino</i> and I were married by a Franciscan priest, and since our
current ever more lovable Pope chose his papal name (many believe) to honor St.
Francis of Assisi, I figured it would be a good idea to write a little post today on 4 October, on
occasion of the feast day of one of Italy’s all-time best-loved saints.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Instead going into <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_of_Assisi" target="_blank">St. Francis’s life andworks</a>, which I’m guessing most people are already familiar with, I thought I’d
suggest five ways to celebrate his feast day, and five different Italian cities
in which to do it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span lang="EN-US">Assisi</span></b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi<span style="font-size: x-small;">.</span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">[<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Assisi-skyline.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>]</span></span><style>
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<span lang="EN-US">As the saint’s hometown, this is the
obvious choice. In fact, this is where <a href="http://www.ansamed.info/ansamed/en/news/sections/generalnews/2013/10/03/Pope-Francis-visit-sacred-sites-namesake-saint_9402837.html" target="_blank">Pope Francis himself </a>decided to
celebrate St. Francis’s Day, so expect a lot of crowds if you choose this
option. Besides the sheer majesty of the 13th-century basilica, one of the most
important fresco cycles of the great Giotto di Bondone, and in fact one of the
most </span><span lang="EN-US">celebrated works of art of that magical period when the buds of medieval
art began to blossom into the Renaissance. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>The </i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Woman's Confession</i>, Giotto. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi<span style="font-size: x-small;">.</span></span> [<a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Giotto-Confessione_della_donna-2.jpg?uselang=it" target="_blank">source</a>]</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>The Dream of the Palace</i>, Giotto. Basilica of San Francesco d'Ass<span style="font-size: x-small;">isi, Assisi.</span> [<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francesco_d%27Assisi" target="_blank">source</a>]</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvzZ376Q6qRdmfS0ybu4vh86Q4aoNWyKapQZAB_jt1LO-ikr6P4Ej34Bx6BcVoVTxlthGcWdct5YDMtlPJNmpFAAB4tL1dVEz9GpynsL_t46mRMleU6PUCZ53kSQP8WScxu7ziKUSUDU/s1600/stigmatization-of-st-francis-1300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvzZ376Q6qRdmfS0ybu4vh86Q4aoNWyKapQZAB_jt1LO-ikr6P4Ej34Bx6BcVoVTxlthGcWdct5YDMtlPJNmpFAAB4tL1dVEz9GpynsL_t46mRMleU6PUCZ53kSQP8WScxu7ziKUSUDU/s400/stigmatization-of-st-francis-1300.jpg" width="382" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>San Francis receives the Stigmata</i>, Giotto. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [<a href="http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/giotto/stigmatization-of-st-francis-1300" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">The 28 frescoes that line the lower
section of the nave of the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi tell the story of
the saint’s life and are believed to have been painted between 1296 and 1304.
Bonus: an even earlier portrait of St. Francis, by late-medieval master
Cimabue, can be seen on the transept wall. The fresco, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Our Lady Enthroned with St. Francis</i>, dates to 1280 and features one
of the most well known depictions of the saint. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSCAUn3vOG0-LeX257pO1HCIliCxpVOhxuIQt9JtSVWUOQ2H5IN4D3E7zM1v9XeA4YeiONUzk2uQskDCFclaUMIChFbudlNnQC4DDNHayQqYZkYlFbTiOV12UGMdiJR_ihGZ4qOIuisY/s1600/San_Francesco_Cimabue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSCAUn3vOG0-LeX257pO1HCIliCxpVOhxuIQt9JtSVWUOQ2H5IN4D3E7zM1v9XeA4YeiONUzk2uQskDCFclaUMIChFbudlNnQC4DDNHayQqYZkYlFbTiOV12UGMdiJR_ihGZ4qOIuisY/s400/San_Francesco_Cimabue.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Lady Enthroned with St. Francis, Cimabue. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3d/San_Francesco_Cimabue.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span lang="EN-US">The basilica also contains the
saint’s tomb.</span> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUhQtaWDz6rR0J4KXccGo7mf4RTsbAQsooEC8jPRgecgFCf2noqfR8AFsbjDVpFni7ek8xfgZdh8QosTimj7PuASVoZu5EXBTQM3177So0N92P9H-Ht4s8msJJS80em0H9imLY4bBZN8/s1600/Assisi-Tomba_di_San_Francesco.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUhQtaWDz6rR0J4KXccGo7mf4RTsbAQsooEC8jPRgecgFCf2noqfR8AFsbjDVpFni7ek8xfgZdh8QosTimj7PuASVoZu5EXBTQM3177So0N92P9H-Ht4s8msJJS80em0H9imLY4bBZN8/s400/Assisi-Tomba_di_San_Francesco.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomb of St. Francis of Assisi. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Assisi-Tomba_di_San_Francesco.JPG" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonZjlvzzqBSlQmjfADeteLsjLqbJiJjDrAnPf8ZXoK4cjWC_Gmcr-JAWJcBsuSHVPbUtj3ypGVQabLepCa6Xu-2V5Pf7yETa73oaecYv8Ib3E_utWronI1MYzuuEBeWCq_gDMWF02f0s/s1600/santatrinita700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhonZjlvzzqBSlQmjfADeteLsjLqbJiJjDrAnPf8ZXoK4cjWC_Gmcr-JAWJcBsuSHVPbUtj3ypGVQabLepCa6Xu-2V5Pf7yETa73oaecYv8Ib3E_utWronI1MYzuuEBeWCq_gDMWF02f0s/s400/santatrinita700.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basilica of Santa Trinità, Florence. [<a href="http://www.casasantapia.com/engels/firenze/santatrinita.htm" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">If you prefer high Renaissance art to late
medieval/early Renaissance crossover art, and you happen to be in Florence today,
you’re in luck! Head to Santa Trinità church where you can visit the Sassetti
Chapel, containing an exquisite fresco cycle by Domenico Ghirlandaio (who just
happened to be Michelangelo’s first master, and one of the painters of the
walls of the Sistine Chapel). The fresco, dating from 1482-1485, depict several
scenes of St. Francis’s life, including the receiving of the stigmata, the confirmation
of Franciscan rule, and the resurrection of a boy.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_o2DoEc_d0663Qnj08yR-cLrWPZABJARWobbylN9PmjBeyIKXPImzLN1RysnmRGIXapCCbrtBx4Cyo6NGvR4Obg_RMsocF9uY9eY8YVS9XSSXuSXIevQ6j9jg_exsXLUAkPKl8M4QTg/s1600/800px-Cappella_Sassetti_Confirmation_of_the_Franciscan_Rule_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_o2DoEc_d0663Qnj08yR-cLrWPZABJARWobbylN9PmjBeyIKXPImzLN1RysnmRGIXapCCbrtBx4Cyo6NGvR4Obg_RMsocF9uY9eY8YVS9XSSXuSXIevQ6j9jg_exsXLUAkPKl8M4QTg/s400/800px-Cappella_Sassetti_Confirmation_of_the_Franciscan_Rule_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Confirmation of Franciscan Rule</i>, Ghirlandaio. Church of Santa Trinità, Florence. [<a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cappella_Sassetti_Confirmation_of_the_Franciscan_Rule_2.jpg?uselang=it" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_-PGPmUyAAMTWjUSXHLf-kd89yBWG5mg5V_wQL9yO01Voa9qlDf2_rBnVnCQ1VuEORsaXT5DiTS7hJN_IRlJ_wVr1e85TD5eHQsevwk1E7QB9uypAQ4cFe8uX4uE2lApPzoZEVOIOLA/s1600/GHIRLANDAIO-TRIAL-BY-FIRE,-CAPPELLA-SASSETTI,-S.TRINITA,-FIR.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_-PGPmUyAAMTWjUSXHLf-kd89yBWG5mg5V_wQL9yO01Voa9qlDf2_rBnVnCQ1VuEORsaXT5DiTS7hJN_IRlJ_wVr1e85TD5eHQsevwk1E7QB9uypAQ4cFe8uX4uE2lApPzoZEVOIOLA/s400/GHIRLANDAIO-TRIAL-BY-FIRE,-CAPPELLA-SASSETTI,-S.TRINITA,-FIR.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>St. Francis's Trial by Fire</i>, Ghirlandaio. Church of Santa Trinità, Florence. [<a href="http://artmight.com/Artists/Ghirlandaio-Domenico/GHIRLANDAIO-TRIAL-BY-FIRE-CAPPELLA-SASSETTI-S-TRINITA-FIR-178737p.html" target="_blank">source</a><span id="goog_1094170194"></span><span id="goog_1094170195"></span>]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHM-ozU5fYQGpCgNkPSyad63eOfWxkyQPSrp2z4Swpt685VCWg31_TwIY5TVZA7r2O15L9G4qbCJoOGgHsvzIxodWjtmtHQxjiR4PKzguB4xKNtnKnky21eVt-tzLOSe9ZsWyhDiSlLk0/s1600/12-06+ghirlandaio+-+morte+di+san+francesco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHM-ozU5fYQGpCgNkPSyad63eOfWxkyQPSrp2z4Swpt685VCWg31_TwIY5TVZA7r2O15L9G4qbCJoOGgHsvzIxodWjtmtHQxjiR4PKzguB4xKNtnKnky21eVt-tzLOSe9ZsWyhDiSlLk0/s400/12-06+ghirlandaio+-+morte+di+san+francesco.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Death of St. Francis of Assisi</i>, Ghirlandaio. Church of Santa Trinità, Florence. [<a href="http://www.frammentiarte.it/dal%20Gotico/ghirlandaio%20domenico%20opere/12-06%20esequie%20di%20san%20francesco.htm" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span lang="EN-US">Chiusi della Verna</span></b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm1bwNzTUJ3drWu4_o8581vAKQW6adJ9_xRs9g7odorXHA1mJ8qhmcD5EcIGo643KJ1VInQVc4nB-ryUAfK5Bvz3t1a_5pZxYj7ky2wRmNPffa8HIrQT9wYRrCkRSNt7NxXbM-4kkROcg/s1600/0537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm1bwNzTUJ3drWu4_o8581vAKQW6adJ9_xRs9g7odorXHA1mJ8qhmcD5EcIGo643KJ1VInQVc4nB-ryUAfK5Bvz3t1a_5pZxYj7ky2wRmNPffa8HIrQT9wYRrCkRSNt7NxXbM-4kkROcg/s400/0537.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santuario della Verna, Chiusi della Verna. [<a href="http://www.minniti.info/main/php/0537.php" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Not many tourists make it to this tiny
little town in the province of Arezzo, but if you’re in the general area today,
consider a visit to the Santuario della Verna, just a few miles outside of
town. In addition to its evocative setting, perched on an outcropping of Mount
Penna, the sanctuary is also renowned for being the site at which St. Francis
received the stigmata, on 14 September 1224. You can also visit a small museum
attached to the sanctuary where you can see St. Francis’ rough habit, slightly
moth-eaten, but still intact.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9alMkr_kkKKO3oJ16lZmT_UhaKt7JUafUFeEYGg-Hp_8a0vK5A724W0HRlgHlbfbj9gmW_HJjfApVCCYYZG3_2eWqIMqu2IfWERRS8SS6MpFOWuTW9n84gjGtZgyyRWkdTvYEQmMT7s/s1600/Francis_of_Assisi_-_habit_-_Santuario_della_Verna_(Chiusi).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9alMkr_kkKKO3oJ16lZmT_UhaKt7JUafUFeEYGg-Hp_8a0vK5A724W0HRlgHlbfbj9gmW_HJjfApVCCYYZG3_2eWqIMqu2IfWERRS8SS6MpFOWuTW9n84gjGtZgyyRWkdTvYEQmMT7s/s400/Francis_of_Assisi_-_habit_-_Santuario_della_Verna_(Chiusi).jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Habit of St. Francis of Assisi, Santuario della Verna, Chiusi della Verna. [<a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Francis_of_Assisi_-_habit_-_Santuario_della_Verna_%28Chiusi%29.jpg" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span lang="EN-US">Subiaco</span></b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Benedict's Monastery, Subiaco. [<a href="http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=564616&page=203" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">This gorgeous hilltop town, famous for its
medieval Benedictine monasteries, is not generally associated with St. Francis
of Assisi, but there is one notable curiosity for those seeking to pay homage
to the saint today. In St. Gregory’s Chapel in the Monastery of St. Benedict is
only known portrait of St. Francis painted during his lifetime. The portrait
shows neither halo nor stigmata, showing it was indeed painted before the
saint’s death in 1226. If you want an idea of what he actually looked like,
this is probably as close as you’ll come.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoveHYSncNJtVOPned-UBFnJrrX-LMXBZU2QYhUdyhl1bDqF9kQ-8hUXNZNDglvrhILPyXACxBhWbABjF1YgU5AOW6qjhUbOpTj7Kd-WagdiyZ9hhLBiyokRWL9DpN7Jsng9DViatBYj8/s1600/2523-subiaco-monastery-st-francis-assisi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoveHYSncNJtVOPned-UBFnJrrX-LMXBZU2QYhUdyhl1bDqF9kQ-8hUXNZNDglvrhILPyXACxBhWbABjF1YgU5AOW6qjhUbOpTj7Kd-WagdiyZ9hhLBiyokRWL9DpN7Jsng9DViatBYj8/s640/2523-subiaco-monastery-st-francis-assisi.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Portrait of St. Francis of Assisi</i>, St. Gregory's Chapel, St. Benedict's Monastery, Subiaco. [<a href="http://gohistoric.com/photos/2523-subiaco-monastery-st-francis-assisi" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Rome </b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Church of San Francesco a Ripa, Rome.
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">©Tiffany Parks</span></span><style>
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<span lang="EN-US">If you’re in the Eternal City today, never
fear! You don’t have to travel anywhere if you want to make a St. Francis
pilgrimage of your own. The church of San Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere is
attached to a convent that housed St. Francis when he was in Rome in 1209
seeking recognition of his order by Pope Innocent III. If you ask the custodian
nicely (and if your shoulders and knees are modestly covered!) he’ll happily
take you up to the very cell St. Francis slept in, complete with the very stone
he used for a pillow, which visitors are allowed to touch.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rock St. Francis used as a pillow, Cell of St. Francis of Assisi, Church of San Francesco a Ripa, Rome. [<a href="http://ru.sanfrancescoaripa.com/il-santuario" target="_blank">source</a>]</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">While you visit the church (which by the
way also contains Bernini’s late masterpiece <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Ecstasy of the Beata Ludovica Albertoni</i>), take a moment to
wallow bitterly in the knowledge that this unassuming little <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">trasteverina</i> church once contained,
along the walls of the nave, the prototype of the legendary Giotto cycle in
Assisi. The frescoes depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis, attributed
to Pietro Cavallini, are sadly now lost. “Now lost”: two words that inspire the
wrenching of hearts and gnashing of teeth of many an art lover.</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-885203168913497362013-07-24T19:45:00.000+02:002013-07-24T19:45:04.137+02:00La Festa de' Noantri, the festival of the Trasteverini<a href="http://www.festadenoantri.it/index.php?lang=it" target="_blank"></a><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMyoc7jBbBkRViCk-OFPOZu8LS3IYZ-h5u7WKzjdHYoSUdT_NjgcO2zVGVCoFLgB4vd-Ztg1CG73tvrtE4UOEduOfPNOobtU1kMtJO5eBFPT2-wdCXd-gpsgX0Ta7dZsN0I8YenolN2Y/s1600/festa+noantri+storico.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMyoc7jBbBkRViCk-OFPOZu8LS3IYZ-h5u7WKzjdHYoSUdT_NjgcO2zVGVCoFLgB4vd-Ztg1CG73tvrtE4UOEduOfPNOobtU1kMtJO5eBFPT2-wdCXd-gpsgX0Ta7dZsN0I8YenolN2Y/s400/festa+noantri+storico.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri procession, 1950s [<a href="http://www.festadenoantri.it/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=26&Itemid=116&lang=it" target="_blank">source</a>]</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I remember that morning
like it was yesterday: a bright mid-summer dawn, just weeks after moving into
my dream Trastevere apartment. In a haze of grogginess and not enough sleep, I
hear a booming, nasal voice<i>. </i>It's Sunday and seems impossibly
early for whatever is happening, especially as it's happening right outside
my bedroom window. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I bury my head in my pillow
as I hear a monotone voice bleating out of a loudspeaker. Yes, a loudspeaker. A
half-blind glance at my phone shows it’s not even 7am. </span><i>"...Madre
di Dio, prega per noi peccatori..."</i><br />
<br />
Madre di Dio, what the...?<br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This I had to see. I flop
out of bed and stumble over to the window. <i>"Ave Maria, piena di
grazia..."</i> the voice drones on. Opening the shutters, I peer below.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbvkMr1w7OCPQ3PAQch86ewvkUF9YGMe_KeQ9LUhoLFqd7TKoau_Fzgmr1mZAGYG6ScZiPkSbeVaXkd082sk9GnUqZh-E520x53HLy3S-0K2jZDMATcM-ai12wKBxy3INAXBOcFldBoc/s1600/IMG_2147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbvkMr1w7OCPQ3PAQch86ewvkUF9YGMe_KeQ9LUhoLFqd7TKoau_Fzgmr1mZAGYG6ScZiPkSbeVaXkd082sk9GnUqZh-E520x53HLy3S-0K2jZDMATcM-ai12wKBxy3INAXBOcFldBoc/s400/IMG_2147.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via Garibaldi, 2010, Crazy o'clock AM</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihSZDJgOp9vGoro6r051ZrJ9GBKTQRsMjzucj9oE5cOG99xmIxQKBQfWuzEpd5qaMrjr4YiNYjDpMj6J7OfCOXd21R4xBDVgOnOfIyBv70djoljEoAIafDBnBV6viAJwf1KNqecssRVI4/s1600/IMG_2150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihSZDJgOp9vGoro6r051ZrJ9GBKTQRsMjzucj9oE5cOG99xmIxQKBQfWuzEpd5qaMrjr4YiNYjDpMj6J7OfCOXd21R4xBDVgOnOfIyBv70djoljEoAIafDBnBV6viAJwf1KNqecssRVI4/s400/IMG_2150.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via Garibaldi, 2010</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsf09l0faOjPs6wCbSlJ_p8rvQyiNLaco0zB6_JfYLroeebHpcQ8CwrqLba4QuYWO7gQhKPsB1GqemsfqkXPEj5UUqL66-GTZPA0eE6bZDLxNxuCmvQwXAGLGCUrPiicTqnEYpCmHOOq4/s1600/IMG_2151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsf09l0faOjPs6wCbSlJ_p8rvQyiNLaco0zB6_JfYLroeebHpcQ8CwrqLba4QuYWO7gQhKPsB1GqemsfqkXPEj5UUqL66-GTZPA0eE6bZDLxNxuCmvQwXAGLGCUrPiicTqnEYpCmHOOq4/s400/IMG_2151.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via Garibaldi, 2010</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A procession, a full-on religious
procession, was trundling past my window. There were priests, altar boys, a
smattering of older ladies in somber dress. They were all doing a
call-and-repeat version of the Ave Maria that I have since become much more
familiar with. Oh, and they were carrying a gigantic statue of the Virgin Mary
on their shoulders. One thing I have learned living in Italy is that Italians
love the Virgin Mary. I mean, they love her more than Jesus. Or so it seemed to
my then-non-Catholic self. I had almost literally stumbled upon the Festa de’
Noantri.</span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The pictures I've included
here were not, of course, taken that morning, but four years later, when I was sadly
packing up to leave that very same apartment and knew I was going to miss
everything about it (besides the landlord).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Little did I know then that my new apartment would be on the self-same
procession route. It’s actually not so improbable; the Festa de’ Noantri
procession goes down practically every street in Trastevere.</span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">For a little bit of
historical background (and a break from my nonsensical reminiscing), the
festival dates back to 1535 when, after a storm, a cedar statue of the Madonna
was fished out of the Tiber (on the Trastevere side, let it be noted!). Exactly
where the statue came from is still a mystery, but where it ended up is not. It
was donated to the order of the Carmelites, and hence it became known as the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Madonna del Carmine</i> (although many still
refer to it as the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Madonna della
Fiumarola</i>, since it was found in the river). The statue was kept in San
Crisogono, an ancient church in Piazza Sonnino, and was immediately considered
the protectress of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">trasteverini</i>.
The statue was eventually transferred to the unassuming church of Sant’Agata,
right across the square.</span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Every July, the first
Saturday after the 16<sup>th</sup> to be precise, a major 8-day festival takes
place in <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2010/07/siamo-romane-trasteverine.html" target="_blank">my beloved neighborhood</a> to celebrate this “miraculous” statue (if you
can consider a statue be fished out of a river a miracle). The original statue
stays put in Sant’Agata (these days she’s too precious to move about), but a 19<sup>th</sup>-century
polychrome wooden copy is carried about to much fanfare and jubilation (and yes, they change her outfit every year). </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8irExKKDQN1uKHMJBGUtysZE2ETGvKX9w_DyIx7lbg1RGL9BJsZm-cRrnYhsWbYSsTmcWUlh-LvqJYnWqVMNhZl09CsVXUGF-yYT8sBRaLzfVkKw_bMwTpkMMhyaZJ_pG-EzRzbA-tDk/s1600/IMG_0355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8irExKKDQN1uKHMJBGUtysZE2ETGvKX9w_DyIx7lbg1RGL9BJsZm-cRrnYhsWbYSsTmcWUlh-LvqJYnWqVMNhZl09CsVXUGF-yYT8sBRaLzfVkKw_bMwTpkMMhyaZJ_pG-EzRzbA-tDk/s400/IMG_0355.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Pza San Francesco d'Assisi, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKmirpSSgqG3ohlA0moEeOuknU_RVNfBF_7ryPKrFuMFdSF9Pr3FGt2y46L_E6QaHBzYAsgSsWN-K0eFP0YlrE0mgEVEo_27-Fcv7JcfNzfy6x9TN86t6lr25dgFDN1D9Z935IpZWEnA/s1600/IMG_0364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKmirpSSgqG3ohlA0moEeOuknU_RVNfBF_7ryPKrFuMFdSF9Pr3FGt2y46L_E6QaHBzYAsgSsWN-K0eFP0YlrE0mgEVEo_27-Fcv7JcfNzfy6x9TN86t6lr25dgFDN1D9Z935IpZWEnA/s400/IMG_0364.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Pza San Francesco d'Assisi, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-Nb9lY60ii7k312pfKjQoSk5IGD5h05h2YuvpWbY8hqWwFbVxbn5XwxiWPP-1gWswjeFw5cRD6hm2Ofb8VDCJBs3Ddbe7Z7dDa1LOZK2bwQuwfyj1vZvmhOY9ERcyNESlFpxZUS1-fU/s1600/IMG_0373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq-Nb9lY60ii7k312pfKjQoSk5IGD5h05h2YuvpWbY8hqWwFbVxbn5XwxiWPP-1gWswjeFw5cRD6hm2Ofb8VDCJBs3Ddbe7Z7dDa1LOZK2bwQuwfyj1vZvmhOY9ERcyNESlFpxZUS1-fU/s400/IMG_0373.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a goodly number of
masses and benediction ceremonies, she is carried in solemn procession from
Sant’Agata to the original statue’s first home, San Crisogono. But don’t think
they just walk her across the square. That would be too easy. No, she is
carried down Via della Lungaretta, Via della Luce and into Piazza San Francesco
d’Assisi (where another celebration takes place), down Via San Francesco a Ripa,
Via Natale del Grande, Via Roma Libera, and many more streets in Trastevere,
until she is finally deposited at San Crisogono, where she stays for the
duration of the festival.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsTfyRug2snPoeUtm0hGNXYM6MrUOt5P-vHl1qTjAi4HBK9BLsRDigbB5aaZ2fYcgN45u8yF0EgIuZESQ2D2xcF9SLO8zCYe1Ah5jOE40a23H4chOBl2Mb8AOX8kOa3oElbZXLLoAcrk/s1600/IMG_3656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsTfyRug2snPoeUtm0hGNXYM6MrUOt5P-vHl1qTjAi4HBK9BLsRDigbB5aaZ2fYcgN45u8yF0EgIuZESQ2D2xcF9SLO8zCYe1Ah5jOE40a23H4chOBl2Mb8AOX8kOa3oElbZXLLoAcrk/s400/IMG_3656.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRhw42R0WiXsaiobZ4AQdFUHu0RRUPDrkBSyPvIPCQC7d4PkBq58e84GdCPzqtu8WCtd-UNhgWGko6NA6UCfDP1oRx6MALWWktam8YmHYHsI7fV-N9wteLO1QQuHssfMl0QjbGHiqU2c/s1600/IMG_3660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvRhw42R0WiXsaiobZ4AQdFUHu0RRUPDrkBSyPvIPCQC7d4PkBq58e84GdCPzqtu8WCtd-UNhgWGko6NA6UCfDP1oRx6MALWWktam8YmHYHsI7fV-N9wteLO1QQuHssfMl0QjbGHiqU2c/s400/IMG_3660.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx92EDM-g25Avf8VcM59VpWV1jIX41UqCZCfDZGlwAi07cTkvnceC7WwSdBIrsdUHaPJ3fCt74fy1LX9L5td_q20-PUhjTvNaZMlADcRzvfec42Wdaz0dYc50eVfoNeOM9psrhvxMJj40/s1600/IMG_3663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx92EDM-g25Avf8VcM59VpWV1jIX41UqCZCfDZGlwAi07cTkvnceC7WwSdBIrsdUHaPJ3fCt74fy1LX9L5td_q20-PUhjTvNaZMlADcRzvfec42Wdaz0dYc50eVfoNeOM9psrhvxMJj40/s400/IMG_3663.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXbaxncUO46VxjGKpqXBaD6JITXej4ifIyXQDQTAm-d4hx4_vH2hTBOeN52ZDpRld4Piy0MsMI49odmQlb5lpZRenKfC_gE-npS9vtyqe2332ivY8HIig49NaLCsskkUECn4NffAXOaI/s1600/IMG_3665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXbaxncUO46VxjGKpqXBaD6JITXej4ifIyXQDQTAm-d4hx4_vH2hTBOeN52ZDpRld4Piy0MsMI49odmQlb5lpZRenKfC_gE-npS9vtyqe2332ivY8HIig49NaLCsskkUECn4NffAXOaI/s400/IMG_3665.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My friend Jill watching the procession from across the street</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Then the partying begins: street
concerts of traditional music (cue: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AWidHIOhrI" target="_blank"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Roma,nun fa’ la stupida sta sera</i></a>), old folks literally dancing in the streets,
stall selling <i>porchetta</i> in Piazza Sonnino, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8t2NbSFwCfA" target="_blank">bersaglieri playing their trumpets while they run</a> (seriously impressive), and endless
shouts of “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Evviva Maria</i>!” to be heard at
any time of day or night. At the end of the festival, the <i>pièce de resistance</i>
is when hundreds of people line the river or stand on the bridges to watch the
Madonna float down the Tiber on a boat at sunset, from Ponte Sant’Angelo to
Ponte Garibaldi. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkJDW6d17MIPD9ovQIGgilovwloXDiF5StHiO3-GlIUG0VQm02LIX5oMw_5vaIUgt9uM8RRPY6-Hi9sfgNDJz6KGifUuFqbWNTwsLTgi-UNPd3ki7lCk0sr9NqVCSWvDGkh2Huc97agk/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkJDW6d17MIPD9ovQIGgilovwloXDiF5StHiO3-GlIUG0VQm02LIX5oMw_5vaIUgt9uM8RRPY6-Hi9sfgNDJz6KGifUuFqbWNTwsLTgi-UNPd3ki7lCk0sr9NqVCSWvDGkh2Huc97agk/s400/IMG_0492.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madonna della Fiumarola, Ponte Garibaldi, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgffP8E0Z3AS6K5e1v7ThM_xCXeVDQ0OwVfEzxh8VxytDQoUeLSddGWryxc_oawcNYs1ySAAcqiEDRP1x_xnd4wC5kepZRKQMxVu8O4hJLmAQDBolmvuS4Uo6f8MvCwL23ZjLhL1pOxw/s1600/IMG_0501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgffP8E0Z3AS6K5e1v7ThM_xCXeVDQ0OwVfEzxh8VxytDQoUeLSddGWryxc_oawcNYs1ySAAcqiEDRP1x_xnd4wC5kepZRKQMxVu8O4hJLmAQDBolmvuS4Uo6f8MvCwL23ZjLhL1pOxw/s400/IMG_0501.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madonna della Fiumarola, Isola Tiberina, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So why is it called the
Festa “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">de’ Noantri</i>”? The word <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Noantri</i> is a dialectical version of “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">noi altri</i>” (us others). This was a way
the residents of Trastevere voiced their indignation at the phrase, “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">voi altri che abitate in altri quartieri</i>”
(you others who live in other neighborhoods), with which they were referenced by the Roman populace. They
were considered 2<sup>nd</sup>-class citizens because they lived on the wrong
side of the <strike>tracks</strike> Tiber. </span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I feel very differently
about the Festa de' Noantri these days, and that has less to do with the fact
that I'm a Catholic convert (that's a story for another post), and more to do
with the fact that the procession no longer wakes me up on Sunday mornings. It
still passes under my bedroom window (although I now live in a different
apartment on a different street), but it does so around 7 o’clock on Saturday
night instead of 7 o’clock on Sunday morning, and that makes all the
difference. In fact, I’ve come to love this festival. I’m now in my 8<sup>th</sup>
year of witnessing it on my very street and it literally never gets old.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM5uncU6feaGDk0ZLM7_BCHNbuc4M1SWU4KJqB6YGxzY7MK-LzJFUkJO0DUDKlu2VD3myCv0ylBhskelJc9hjqV7eUU7e77aFomEY3TPOvoangKtjXGDOupNZTd5X7LRwwdi7_mfNZziE/s1600/IMG_0347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM5uncU6feaGDk0ZLM7_BCHNbuc4M1SWU4KJqB6YGxzY7MK-LzJFUkJO0DUDKlu2VD3myCv0ylBhskelJc9hjqV7eUU7e77aFomEY3TPOvoangKtjXGDOupNZTd5X7LRwwdi7_mfNZziE/s400/IMG_0347.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festa de' Noantri, Piazza San Francesco d'Assini, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">If you happen to be in
Trastevere tonight (Wed, 24 July 2013), get over to Piazza San Francesco d'Assini, stat! A brass band is playing as I write this, and who knows? Maybe the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bersaglieri</i>
will show up with their fantastic feathered hats? I know I’ll be watching from my
window.</span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><iframe class="vine-embed" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://vine.co/v/hmY9XJIZ63j/embed/simple" width="480"></iframe><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.vine.co/static/scripts/embed.js"></script><br /></span>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Visit the festival's <a href="http://www.festadenoantri.it/index.php?lang=it" target="_blank">official site</a> for a program of processions and events. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><i>All photos (except first) by author.</i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-90513025432026942162013-05-25T21:30:00.000+02:002013-05-25T21:30:52.223+02:00The Streets of Rome: Vicolo del Leonetto<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Some things never change. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Some people never lose it for their first love, some people (many Italian people, actually) can never be satisfied by anything but their mother's cooking, and I, faithful readers, will never get over the thrill of learning the meaning behind Rome's street names.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhx8lfrHWM42u0ttVN2b7JeR1zJApkBhMH1EsuA28TjSdmc15vho8lGow0gHqSVL2qnsHsJp1or7xjfM9St2cuEkQgXdu7wVGC0_KrpMRTIQAv1ijUlJl1Mohljzkdpq9fb-h7QzsOpw0/s1600/Vicolo+del+Leonetto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhx8lfrHWM42u0ttVN2b7JeR1zJApkBhMH1EsuA28TjSdmc15vho8lGow0gHqSVL2qnsHsJp1or7xjfM9St2cuEkQgXdu7wVGC0_KrpMRTIQAv1ijUlJl1Mohljzkdpq9fb-h7QzsOpw0/s400/Vicolo+del+Leonetto.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">It's been a long while since I've written a post about a street name, but that doesn't mean I have lost my fascination with them. As those of you who've been following this blog for a while may remember (that is, if there's anyone out there who actually reads my street name posts; I could realistically be the only person in the world who cares), in the past I've covered, <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.com/2010/04/le-vie-di-roma-whats-in-name_28.html" style="color: #336699; text-decoration: none;">Via del Mascherone, </a><a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.com/2010/05/le-vie-di-roma-via-del-pie-di-marmo.html" style="color: #336699; text-decoration: none;">Via del Piè di Marmo</a></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, (a personal favorite of <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a>), <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.com/2010/05/le-vie-di-roma-via-del-babuino.html" style="color: #336699; text-decoration: none;">Via del Babuino</a></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/11/streets-of-rome-vicolo-della-spada.html" target="_blank">Vicolo della Spada d'Orlando</a>, </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.com/2011/08/streets-of-rome-piazza-della-pigna.html" style="color: #336699; text-decoration: none;">Piazza della Pigna</a></span>, <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/02/streets-of-rome.html" target="_blank">Via dei Giubbonari</a>, </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.com/2011/09/streets-of-rome-via-dellarco-della.html#more" target="_blank">Via dell'Arco della Ciambella</a>, </span>and one of the coziest, most hidden-away streets in Trastevere, </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.com/2011/08/streets-of-rome-vicolo-dellatleta.html" style="color: #336699; text-decoration: none;">Vicolo dell'Atleta</a></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">If you've ever wandered down one of these streets and wondered why it had such a funny name, Big Mask Street, Marble Foot Street, Baboon Street, Orlando's Sword Alley, and so on, </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">well, read these posts and then you'll know.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The street I want to talk about today is another little known one, tucked away in the warren of alleys directly north of Piazza Navona: Vicolo del Leonetto. You don't have to be fluent in Italian to figure out that this street name has something to do with a lion. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I came upon this street by chance about a month ago, as I was on my way to pick up some clients at their hotel. In all likelihood I had never walked down this street before, probably because it curves in a way that makes it seem at first like a dead end. As I tramped my way from Rione Ponte into Rione Campo Marzio, and headed down this hitherto unknown street, I noticed a strange, clearly ancient piece of statuary protruding from the corner of a building, just at the point at which the alley makes its little bend. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLtoYojQtLhZ1uUrusV3lOss3DDkPYP_AJyfIxCGD6HEPVjlqEba5f7xQ37EEn64ns0itSiP7AHGdCU2iIM1l-dKDGYyFXOgwnHljcRrAhgUjQ_G1mAWBdgavEZos8Ybuw-CIej-94n0/s1600/IMG_1915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLtoYojQtLhZ1uUrusV3lOss3DDkPYP_AJyfIxCGD6HEPVjlqEba5f7xQ37EEn64ns0itSiP7AHGdCU2iIM1l-dKDGYyFXOgwnHljcRrAhgUjQ_G1mAWBdgavEZos8Ybuw-CIej-94n0/s400/IMG_1915.JPG" width="300" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">These physical remnants of the past can be found all over this neighborhood, and as much as I delight in them, I had no time to stop and muse of this particular one. I hastened to collect my clients, and as we walked back down the street in the opposite direction, I glanced at the protruding fragment once again, but this time I noticed something that hadn't been visible from the other angle, something that looked distinctly like a mane. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcLDcZhehL-XunY71j0vutPJxcAoZWZth6sm9GX6hHKYT8sEZx790TNaqw-79rT0ZB8djdsbKT6zgTAMZQcGNEbTH54BNVqsgWZdUZ64b7Z9LL7awmcP4r3wwiwl0-roQ7QALi7iRdhCU/s1600/IMG_1917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcLDcZhehL-XunY71j0vutPJxcAoZWZth6sm9GX6hHKYT8sEZx790TNaqw-79rT0ZB8djdsbKT6zgTAMZQcGNEbTH54BNVqsgWZdUZ64b7Z9LL7awmcP4r3wwiwl0-roQ7QALi7iRdhCU/s400/IMG_1917.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And it smacked me in the face: Vicolo del Leonetto: Little Lion Alley. A surge of excitement raced through me, as always happens when I serendipitously discover the name of a Roman street, and only my innate professionalism kept me from whooping. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I mean, can you stand it? For all its wars and corruption and gladiators and sacks and plagues and brawls and murder, at its heart, Rome is just too cute for words.</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA6Gtm7eUGnhv6ADPVdZkn8j4Ne5HMOcAYzTgv84RSrghdETTHLpNDDHJXXF73kYdexVCFGjm-cMO96EVadSgSPxW_a9xKdcwA-lbkry-wwq9SbwBOEzB9BA2R-IYhpdTGg4P9qHJ04E/s1600/IMG_1916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA6Gtm7eUGnhv6ADPVdZkn8j4Ne5HMOcAYzTgv84RSrghdETTHLpNDDHJXXF73kYdexVCFGjm-cMO96EVadSgSPxW_a9xKdcwA-lbkry-wwq9SbwBOEzB9BA2R-IYhpdTGg4P9qHJ04E/s400/IMG_1916.JPG" width="300" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
<div style="border-color: currentcolor; border-style: initial; border-width: initial; line-height: 20px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Is it just me, or does this little lion look a bit more like a very smiley shark from this angle?</span></span></div>
<div style="border-color: currentcolor; border-style: initial; border-width: initial; line-height: 20px;">
<br /><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">My clients patiently
waited as I snapped a few photos of my newest find, at which point I
giddily explained to them my passion for Roman toponymy. I gushed and they pretended to be interested; it was a very special moment.</span></span></div>
<div style="border-color: currentcolor; border-style: initial; border-width: initial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><div style="border-color: currentcolor; border-style: initial; border-width: initial; line-height: 20px;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
will leave you with this incredibly inviting doorway, about four paces beyond the lion himself. It leads no doubt
to an equally adorable apartment in which I'm sure I would be happy to spend the
rest of my days. I am a Leo, after all.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRZwPvjV6Kng_1nS_yb8EA2yooGqjb-VeBVk79O1-Lh4kjRKYOjl9OPYusmx5Cq29B3aVRsxY711SFz5oevGGWzEabEz4tu1tPsurDcxQaJ81mlsTuLmQoZ41NXsbACyP8Z0MgE4td10/s1600/IMG_1906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRZwPvjV6Kng_1nS_yb8EA2yooGqjb-VeBVk79O1-Lh4kjRKYOjl9OPYusmx5Cq29B3aVRsxY711SFz5oevGGWzEabEz4tu1tPsurDcxQaJ81mlsTuLmQoZ41NXsbACyP8Z0MgE4td10/s400/IMG_1906.JPG" width="300" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>All photos by author</i></span></span></div>
</div>
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</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comVicolo del Leonetto, 00186 Roma, Italia41.9023929 12.47415130000001741.901654400000005 12.472890800000016 41.9031314 12.475411800000018tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-46317564090088270492013-05-03T23:05:00.000+02:002013-05-05T10:05:25.862+02:00Are you on Vine? The Pines of Rome is!OK, my friends and bloglings, your humble correspondent, the one who extols the virtues of <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/02/for-past-few-weeks-my-laptop-has-been.html" target="_blank">writing by hand</a> and<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/03/benefits-of-letter-writing.html" target="_blank"> sending letters by post</a>, is at risk of becoming a social media junkie. It probably all began around the time I succumbed to the irresistible allure of the iPhone (after swearing I would <i>never</i> own one, and deriding all my friends who were constantly glued to theirs--they're making fun of me right now, by the way).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilK_PDb7tuguG83_VEiVfpNWC8EwXKz66rR0SQHwUxJqdaVVg_I8Z2S0_WyOPLu20VfMmlv8RyR6a7zRmYQH131deRcnTRa5JYZw7E_fGiXhogqAXVjaHmeSXhCFt5OXpfZie4FuODAEA/s1600/vine-logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilK_PDb7tuguG83_VEiVfpNWC8EwXKz66rR0SQHwUxJqdaVVg_I8Z2S0_WyOPLu20VfMmlv8RyR6a7zRmYQH131deRcnTRa5JYZw7E_fGiXhogqAXVjaHmeSXhCFt5OXpfZie4FuODAEA/s320/vine-logo.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
But it got much, much worse when Vine happened.<br />
<br />
What is <a href="http://www.vine.co/" target="_blank">Vine</a>, you ask?
Well, if you're not in the know (like moi), Vine is an iPhone app owned
by <a href="https://twitter.com/ThePinesOfRome" target="_blank">Twitter</a>, similar to Instagram, but instead of posting photos,
you post videos. <i>Teensy </i>videos. Six seconds, max. But the twist
is, with just the touch of your thumb--while you record--you can cut the
video so that the result is a collage of several <i>even teensier</i> clips. <br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe class="vine-embed" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://vine.co/v/bQiba1XKtrn/embed/postcard" width="480"></iframe><br />
<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.vine.co/static/scripts/embed.js"></script><br />
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The thing about Vine is that once you starting using it, everywhere you look (especially if you live in a visually gorgeous place like Rome, what can I say), you see an opportunity to make a Vine. Strolling through a particularly picturesque piazza at twilight? Vine it. In St. Peter's Square while white smoke is pouring out of the Sistine Chapel chimney? Vine it. Waiting for the number 23 bus while wearing fabulous tights? Vine it. Cooking up a scrumptious meal? You get the idea.<br />
<br />
They are tiny peeks into a friend or a stranger's world, and I am afraid that I'm addicted, both to making my own and to watching others'.<br />
<br />
Just about anything, with a little practice, can be turned into an aesthetically pleasing Vine. Except maybe excessive use of pets and babies, and trust me, there are a lot of Vines like that out there. Not that I have anything against pets or babies; they're just not that interesting in videos unless they are yours. That is, of course, unless the pet is a <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aP3gzee1cps" target="_blank">cat who barks</a> or the baby is <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RP4abiHdQpc" target="_blank">shrieking with laughter at someone ripping paper</a>. That would be OK.<br />
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The best part about Vine is its length. Six seconds. I mean, it's brilliant! You can watch anything for six seconds. And in that sense it's the video version of Twitter: six seconds instead of 140 characters, perfect for our generation's unprecedentedly short attention span.<br />
<br />
I just learned how to embed my Vines on my blog [<i>pats self on back</i>], although for some reason I can't seem to get the audio to work. I'm still a complete beginner, so bear with me!<br />
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Here are a few of my favorites. The star of these mini-videos? Rome, of course. Not that six seconds could ever do her justice.<br />
<br />
<iframe class="vine-embed" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://vine.co/v/bDrJHVz7nPA/embed/simple" width="480"></iframe><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.vine.co/static/scripts/embed.js"></script><br />
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<i>Piazza Farnese by night</i></div>
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<iframe class="vine-embed" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://vine.co/v/bDre6OHvaU6/embed/simple" width="480"></iframe><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.vine.co/static/scripts/embed.js"></script><br />
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<i>Piazza Navona at twilight</i></div>
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<iframe class="vine-embed" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://vine.co/v/bwbYe1JWrA9/embed/simple" width="480"></iframe><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//platform.vine.co/static/scripts/embed.js"></script><br />
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<i>A walk from Trastevere to the Ghetto</i></div>
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If you too are on Vine, you can follow me at <a href="http://tinyurl.com/bvfars5" target="_blank">@ThePinesOfRome</a><br />
<br />
Because Vine only works (for now) on the iPhone Vine app, this link will only work from an iPhone that has Vine installed on it. Hopefully that won't always be the case! In the meantime, you know I won't be able to resist posting my favorite Vines here, so stay tuned!<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-23400460799789243402013-05-02T00:23:00.002+02:002013-05-02T00:24:31.476+02:00May Day in Rome, or CalendimaggioHappy May Day, bloglings!<br />
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For those of you from the other side of the pond, the first day of May is European Labor Day and just about everyone has the day off. Like every holiday in Italy, May Day has its own traditions and customs, and in Rome it is most widely celebrated by heading out of town for a <i>scampagnata</i>, a country outing. This generally involves either an actual picnic on some lush hillside, preferably with a vineyard in view, or an interminable lunch in some large country osteria where every table is reserved for the entire lunch shift because table turn-over doesn't exist for these kinds of meals.<br />
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If it's not possible to make it all the way out to the country, or for those who dread the traffic, a picnic in one of Rome's many sprawling public parks is an acceptable substitute. And of course, no Italian holiday would be complete without the tradition of some specific, local, in-season ingredients. And May Day in the vicinity of Rome dictates pecorino cheese, raw fava beans, and for the non-vegetarians, some prosciutto. (And a bottle of Frascati wine, it goes without saying.)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3w3R8IivB042ft-iVtKQhT0KXDZbJbpOilK7oDUkOz5QkX2Q9AdMxDU43e8g6ZNS2wf-EBJZ1ZQJKqwzE1mMiA_hxcsKBp_bOua15o3DnQdmio_p68zvQEWdNQ7Qh28H1Z0Cj8VeJjxg/s1600/Fave+Pecorino+by+FotoRita.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3w3R8IivB042ft-iVtKQhT0KXDZbJbpOilK7oDUkOz5QkX2Q9AdMxDU43e8g6ZNS2wf-EBJZ1ZQJKqwzE1mMiA_hxcsKBp_bOua15o3DnQdmio_p68zvQEWdNQ7Qh28H1Z0Cj8VeJjxg/s400/Fave+Pecorino+by+FotoRita.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/fotorita/2475004973/" target="_blank">[source]</a></i></td></tr>
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Another May Day tradition in the city is the free mega-concert in Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano. Every year, between 800,000 and a million people fill the square to hear dozens of different performers, some very well known and most Italian. I cannot tell you what it's like as my agoraphobia would never permit me to attend, not even if I was paid to do so. To be honest, just the thought of being in that crowd makes me almost hyperventilate. But hopefully you don't share my crowd-anxiety, and if you'd like to attend, the music kicks off at 3pm and lasts until midnight.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHDv7Fp01LFhXAlev_B1Sk1VphV5sRecCa_8Yml3ipJT-7eabODLNOq-yGk9z1_rgavK1FHfHN5uGoA3NV5RJDn11a86RtjjTTZF-s2434DdK_Y_mNvac0NSwEPE_mjiC8z1Kvx1V7jMU/s1600/May+Day+Concert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHDv7Fp01LFhXAlev_B1Sk1VphV5sRecCa_8Yml3ipJT-7eabODLNOq-yGk9z1_rgavK1FHfHN5uGoA3NV5RJDn11a86RtjjTTZF-s2434DdK_Y_mNvac0NSwEPE_mjiC8z1Kvx1V7jMU/s400/May+Day+Concert.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Concertone di Primo maggio, 2011, Pza San Giovanni in Laterano<br />
<i><a href="http://mag.sky.it/mag/musica/2012/03/23/concerto_primo_maggio_2012_mauro_pagani.html" target="_blank">[source]</a></i></td></tr>
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I know you're all wondering, with baited breath no doubt, how your faithful correspondent chose to celebrate this <strike>made up</strike> important holiday. I'm sorry to disappoint those of you who may imagine that I have some kind of glamorous life, what with living in Rome and all, but I cannot lie to you, dear readers. My May Day has been pretty boring, although productive. I realized this morning that I have<strike> literally</strike> practically no clothes. And most importantly, I do not own a pair of jeans. Or I didn't until this morning.<br />
<br />
I'll let you in on a little secret. I hate shopping. I mean, I really really hate it. It makes me want to throw up just thinking about it. And I especially hate it when there is something specific that I need to buy, because I will almost surely not find it. I should, perhaps, clarify this a little: I hate shopping in Italy. Shopping in the United States, if overwhelming and over-stimulating, is a wonderful, marvelous thing. But shopping in Italy--at least in 2013--is hell on Earth. Why, you ask, darling readers? Because mid-level Italian designers have decided that it's not 2013, but actually 1991. So the shops are full of baggy T-shirts, off-the-shoulder, shapeless, sweater-dresses, M C Hammer pants, and jeans that are intended to be rolled up tightly at the ankle, like we did in 8th grade. All in the attractive colors of brown, beige, and camel. Every shop looks the same and it isn't pretty. It's a wonder I found any decent jeans at all.<br />
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My second exciting May Day event was the dreaded <i>cambio di stagione</i> (change of season). This is when you swap out all your winter clothes for your summer clothes and hope there isn't a late spring cold-spell. (This isn't necessary where I come from, by the way. In Seattle, the temperature is more or less the same all year round.) But it is a must in Rome, where not only does the weather jump from 45 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit sometimes in the space of a few weeks, but also where almost no one has more than a puny little wardrobe (roomy, built in closets are unknown in these parts). Thank God for the <i>soppalco </i>(crawl space).<br />
<br />
Jealous, right? I'll bet. But just think, if I hadn't opted for a boring May Day, I wouldn't have had the time to write this post, and that's what really matters, amirite? Um, hello? Anyone still reading?<br />
<br />
I do want to mention my absolute best May Day ever. It was in 2010, coincidentally just after I began this blog. Here is the post I wrote about that day: <i><a href="http://www.thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2010/05/perfezione-e-vergogna.html" target="_blank">Perfezione e Vergogna</a></i> (before I realized using Italian titles for my posts was not the best idea if I actually wanted people to read them--silly me). It was a wonderful day that included a bike ride in Villa Pamphilj and the requisite endless lunch in the countryside with a big group of friends.<br />
<br />
But those two highly enjoyable outings are not what made that day so special, nor are they the reasons I will remember it forever. No, that is because of something that happened early, early in the morning. Let me set the scene: I was engaged to be married. <strike>We</strike> I had decided that the wedding would take place in San Pietro in Montorio, just up the street from where I lived at the time on Via Garibaldi. The church is perched on the slope of the Gianicolo Hill, is the sight of Bramante's exquisite Tempietto, and has a view of Rome that makes <strike>you</strike> me want to weep with ecstasy.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo1tSptnT4UcSL4-_ozppOhXnK3BOQKZuPCBFwTa84L4f6CAGP8Nw9ow-Pu0qnIEPksWNdP2NQoRGN06qLS_U4mQh2VbNwVIxDh-Fl34X08ugQtoCzk0LS-bQ6t4_cUY7m5S2rqrLSkI/s1600/tempietto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo1tSptnT4UcSL4-_ozppOhXnK3BOQKZuPCBFwTa84L4f6CAGP8Nw9ow-Pu0qnIEPksWNdP2NQoRGN06qLS_U4mQh2VbNwVIxDh-Fl34X08ugQtoCzk0LS-bQ6t4_cUY7m5S2rqrLSkI/s400/tempietto.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tempietto di Bramante, 1502<br />
[<i><a href="http://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/final/deck/4486758" target="_blank">Source</a></i>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The only problem is, just about everyone in Rome wants to get married there. I had talked to the priest months earlier and he had explained that you cannot book a date at that church any more than one year in advance, to avoid "<i>abusi</i>" as he put it. What did that mean for <strike>us</strike> me? I meant that <strike>we</strike> I would have to basically stake out the church on the first day of whichever month we hoped to get married in, one year in advance. And hope to get there in time to get a good date.<br />
<br />
We had originally planned to get married some time in early June, but I wasn't sure how early <strike>we</strike> I would have to get to the church on the morning of the first of June to line up. How many other couples would have the same idea? June is probably the most popular month to get married... would I have to wait all night? (I had a vision of Claudio and I with our chess set sitting on the steps of the church on a balmy June night, waiting to pick our wedding date with all of Rome spread at our feet. Pretty romantic, right?)<br />
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But still, I was worried. I'd only have this one chance. What if 30 couples got there before us and grabbed all the weekend dates? I decided to do a dry run the month before. I figured I would show up at the church on the morning of the first of May around 6am (they let people in at 7) and see how many couples were waiting and ask them what time they got there. Well, I can tell you it wasn't easy dragging myself out of bed before six on a holiday, but luckily I lived very close to the church. I was rewarded with an incredible sight. I have seen the view of Rome from the Gianicolo probably hundreds of times (although I never tire of it), but never had I seen it at dawn. The city had a golden-rosy glow with just tinge of periwinkle. As beautiful as Rome is at sunset, I think it might be even more glorious at sunrise.<br />
<br />
When I arrived at the church, the parking lot was full of cars. A few people were sitting around. Fourteen couples were already there, most had arrived the night before and slept in their cars. One couple had showed up at 2pm the day before. It did not bode well. June will be even worse, I imagined. Then I noticed that someone had a list. It was actually a calendar with the available days and times for weddings shown; as soon as a couple arrived, they blocked off their preferred date and waited until 7am to confirm it with the priest. I gave it a glance, just out of curiosity. All the 4pm weekend slots were already taken of course, except one: Sunday, 29 May. I thought quickly. Early June, late May, did it really make such a difference?<br />
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I jotted our names down, just in case, and made a quick call to a very sleepy <i>fidanzatino</i> (not yet <i>maritino</i>). "What? You booked what? When? All right... whatever...." Yes, it would have been nice if he had been as ecstatic as I was, but the important thing was he agreed on the date. I felt rather pathetic being the only lone bride there while everyone else was with their betrothed (except there was one groom whose fiancée was out of town and he had brought a male friend with him to keep him company; before he explained this I was thinking, "Did they change the rules?"). An hour-long wait and a quick meeting with the priest and that was it: we had a date for the wedding, in a church with one of the most amazing settings in the city. And that quiet, serendipitous morning is what May Day will always be for me.<br />
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I can't close this (very rambling) post without at least one nugget of history. Long before May Day was called by the pedestrian name of <i>Primo maggio</i>, it used to be called <i>Calendimaggio</i>. This term comes from the ancient Roman calendar, in which the first of the month was called the Kalends. As is the case with most Italian words in my vocabulary, the first time I ever heard the word <i>Calendimaggio</i> was in an opera. One of my favorites in fact, Puccini's <i>Gianni Schicchi</i>. Rinuccio and Lauretta desperately want to get married on <i>Calendimaggio</i>, only their families detest each other. Here's a video of the entire one-act opera, skip to 25:55 for the moment in which the thwarted couple despairs that they won't be able to marry on <i>Calendimaggio</i>.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/k4mbd9VMZb0?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<br />
I first saw this opera as a teenager I decided then and there that I too must wed on <i>Calendimaggio</i>. In fact, this was the original date I had hoped for, but am very happy someone talked me out of it, as John Paul II was beatified that day in 2011 and Rome was bursting to the gills with pilgrims, not to mention the traffic nightmares the <i>Primo maggio</i> concert inevitably causes.<br />
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In the Renaissance, <i>Calendimaggio</i> was not only a celebration of the arrival of spring (like May Day around the world), but it was also a day when tradition dictated that young men leave flowers at the doors of their sweethearts and maybe even serenade them. One of the few Italian cities that maintains the tradition of<a href="http://www.calendimaggiodiassisi.com/" target="_blank"> <i>Calendimaggio</i> is Assisi</a>, where a three-day festival takes place during the first week of May every year, with processions, concerts, theater performances, competitions and lots of local townsfolk dressed in gorgeous Renaissance costumes. It starts tomorrow!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeAAY0sqFvMremo2gtUyB2Vg_BzuOnqS7w25a8NlUtib0bpVm4tB_jCbPa9mANBDvmO1ffXB8AdI1E0qmsNr_SSJleUmxB4cVb8O8nkh0_HFXIl_S4wfeU3cSO5pmsR46A7vAnnemE_4/s1600/calendimaggio+di+assisi.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeAAY0sqFvMremo2gtUyB2Vg_BzuOnqS7w25a8NlUtib0bpVm4tB_jCbPa9mANBDvmO1ffXB8AdI1E0qmsNr_SSJleUmxB4cVb8O8nkh0_HFXIl_S4wfeU3cSO5pmsR46A7vAnnemE_4/s400/calendimaggio+di+assisi.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calendimaggio di Assisi<br />
[<i><a href="http://onceuponatravelogue.blogspot.it/2012/05/calendimaggio-il-secondo-giorno.html" target="_blank">Source</a></i>]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Happy Labor Day, May Day, <i>Primo maggio</i>, and <i>Calendimaggio</i>!</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-51701015105930212492013-04-27T14:03:00.002+02:002013-04-27T14:03:52.735+02:00My favorite thing about April in RomeWhat is it about April in Rome? What makes it the most perfect month to enjoy this incomparable city?<br />
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I can sum it up in one word, one smell, one color, one single flower dripping languidly from the vine.<br />
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Wisteria (or, in Italian, <i>glicine</i>).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijce4Gw43FSNRvSBxtOK2XZ72ZD_2pqLJGXrakf3TXBB0AtlvTrCCL-SwIi2V1V9TSDbBt1Entd0nExA0gtUYZgub5k5YWlgMZZlylKj3LE_bSumXW5D0N4yuLwncez2UFgx5-X5oqJOE/s1600/IMG_1903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria glicine trastevere vicolo del piede roma rome" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijce4Gw43FSNRvSBxtOK2XZ72ZD_2pqLJGXrakf3TXBB0AtlvTrCCL-SwIi2V1V9TSDbBt1Entd0nExA0gtUYZgub5k5YWlgMZZlylKj3LE_bSumXW5D0N4yuLwncez2UFgx5-X5oqJOE/s400/IMG_1903.JPG" title="Sunny wisteria in Trastevere" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>By author</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyC5AuQI0ZNruQ8tUOcH5kLxN1tXWvkk-uZZFMGleeDXEQ8LrF7jrEzXjUxncVp9s76WJ9s2xavy6qCZ3IuYZAh7KLVc75Z2J9zKoGnUOzY4RN4y4sr6kfkEdNC7FqrwaU1UrqM6me89Q/s1600/DSC_0509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria glicine vicolo del piede trastevere roma rome" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyC5AuQI0ZNruQ8tUOcH5kLxN1tXWvkk-uZZFMGleeDXEQ8LrF7jrEzXjUxncVp9s76WJ9s2xavy6qCZ3IuYZAh7KLVc75Z2J9zKoGnUOzY4RN4y4sr6kfkEdNC7FqrwaU1UrqM6me89Q/s400/DSC_0509.JPG" title="Wisteria Vicolo del Piede Trastevere" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
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<i><span style="mso-ansi-language: IT;">©</span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUpz448tdR7JZ4JW9wrDpho8lShxkZ3E0oclOt-B_a5ZO6cSTh2SOJ23GFXkkdhdDzKQPziQ0bwAufsu2JPWrwLPFCpYgLCMXaXb4Vhorr5C52kqJAdeP7Bge9hj-ziDTnrYzj_CCwHs/s1600/DSC_0512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria street lamp glicine roma rome" border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisUpz448tdR7JZ4JW9wrDpho8lShxkZ3E0oclOt-B_a5ZO6cSTh2SOJ23GFXkkdhdDzKQPziQ0bwAufsu2JPWrwLPFCpYgLCMXaXb4Vhorr5C52kqJAdeP7Bge9hj-ziDTnrYzj_CCwHs/s400/DSC_0512.JPG" title="Wisteria on a street lamp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="mso-ansi-language: IT;">©</span>
Claudio Ianniello</i></td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii7o4QYOamShYEONgp8YR_ugQE5erk-exF_l1hQqNGZ6YVLj-VqNh32vk2qYHbwK-QmQTSTZIB071B9WZBIy6vHMrYPg26ikqzqkxZD6rOKRr3_nlFckYOffZ-abKIDrzUpRQB9s_xpY4/s1600/IMG_1936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria trastevere glicine roma rome" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii7o4QYOamShYEONgp8YR_ugQE5erk-exF_l1hQqNGZ6YVLj-VqNh32vk2qYHbwK-QmQTSTZIB071B9WZBIy6vHMrYPg26ikqzqkxZD6rOKRr3_nlFckYOffZ-abKIDrzUpRQB9s_xpY4/s400/IMG_1936.JPG" title="Wisteria in Trastevere" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>By author</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlOp7CLcdYoUYOAMogA1xT7V2pBlqV4UELFmxES44VbC1lYiCFSlNql-NwDSRjorNoI15MieZXPntMk5qWBZ9f3n943DWz6hUzda8uDeNtnF4pGCnkjdHQNaTf0mbtGwhUdmomT-G6HE/s1600/10792-800x545-500x340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria glicine campidoglio roma rome" border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlOp7CLcdYoUYOAMogA1xT7V2pBlqV4UELFmxES44VbC1lYiCFSlNql-NwDSRjorNoI15MieZXPntMk5qWBZ9f3n943DWz6hUzda8uDeNtnF4pGCnkjdHQNaTf0mbtGwhUdmomT-G6HE/s400/10792-800x545-500x340.jpg" title="Wisteria at Piazza Campidoglio" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>[<a href="http://rete.comuni-italiani.it/foto/2009/10792" target="_blank">Source</a>]</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5_iPXgZg50O8So3F87zFGFy_my_lTrQYVyrSyw2RDOLvJHccE-jk7oxFQj09Emb-5WVXvvovbDUpIKKgGoMVw0JhPmllkcS9q6_I9cyO1vvJGVVSolxRXyQzVNgvDGOs54LVY2FhQQfA/s1600/Wisteria+Via+Giulia+by+Frattaglia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria glicine via giulia roma rome" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5_iPXgZg50O8So3F87zFGFy_my_lTrQYVyrSyw2RDOLvJHccE-jk7oxFQj09Emb-5WVXvvovbDUpIKKgGoMVw0JhPmllkcS9q6_I9cyO1vvJGVVSolxRXyQzVNgvDGOs54LVY2FhQQfA/s400/Wisteria+Via+Giulia+by+Frattaglia.jpg" title="Wisteria on Via Giulia" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>[<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/frattaglia/2400349541/sizes/l/in/photostream/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7rCJVnn2uHQ9jrKmOLIu0ki1jWS7LcwP4GW-FiFUaKjHTSOQoKB7lT3BzVvc5UjhP443Dou7j8kpP-AodD_97flMdp5yyFxzoIQzyQlq79S808ktTf5ZsLOgP85CzIWjCyoQGWmyFtI/s1600/Wisteria+and+vines,+Ro+.+wererabbit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw7rCJVnn2uHQ9jrKmOLIu0ki1jWS7LcwP4GW-FiFUaKjHTSOQoKB7lT3BzVvc5UjhP443Dou7j8kpP-AodD_97flMdp5yyFxzoIQzyQlq79S808ktTf5ZsLOgP85CzIWjCyoQGWmyFtI/s400/Wisteria+and+vines,+Ro+.+wererabbit.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>[<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/wererabbit/4554049135/sizes/o/in/photostream/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayWc9aNYpUd24wwMB5kxOfG46uVE8u7dwIwYodRC3iFsFm35f7G0xwTKU9QEwnAv4YoATLyEqNnxM05sitDymhwRzM6xqOQbVbtsg8dHm6E-NW2yPqt10PYA8Jfq9pasmDYJ_jG_QEaU/s1600/large_Forum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria glicine foro romano roman forum" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayWc9aNYpUd24wwMB5kxOfG46uVE8u7dwIwYodRC3iFsFm35f7G0xwTKU9QEwnAv4YoATLyEqNnxM05sitDymhwRzM6xqOQbVbtsg8dHm6E-NW2yPqt10PYA8Jfq9pasmDYJ_jG_QEaU/s400/large_Forum.jpg" title="Wisteria in the Roman Forum" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>[<a href="http://italianadventures.travellerspoint.com/6/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMV6yFljeH1W3N5t2rwsAZTxBTF59Aw4BksXKPwDdGel69__esx1T25_76wDrqsYum0LwbIjjTEyotvT4kgYw334vIas4Xf5ySy_JiA-eNT-uv5Sw_j9HkcwiKl1Jz6wy4H2YtejutFA/s1600/Wisteria+and+column,+by+hidden+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wisteria rome glicine roma" border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMV6yFljeH1W3N5t2rwsAZTxBTF59Aw4BksXKPwDdGel69__esx1T25_76wDrqsYum0LwbIjjTEyotvT4kgYw334vIas4Xf5ySy_JiA-eNT-uv5Sw_j9HkcwiKl1Jz6wy4H2YtejutFA/s400/Wisteria+and+column,+by+hidden+side.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>[<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hidden_vice/2393646897/sizes/l/in/photostream/" target="_blank">Source</a>]</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
This is the singular reason why April is my favorite month in Rome. (The fact that the weather is warm but not yet scorching is another reason, I must admit.) What is your favorite month here? And why? Do you, like me, have a weakness for this voluptuous and transient blossom?<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comVicolo del Piede, 00153 Roma, Italia41.8900614 12.469725241.8885839 12.4672577 41.8915389 12.472192699999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-43635985917017720062013-03-12T00:15:00.004+01:002013-03-12T12:48:37.120+01:00Meet the Papabili: a Handy Guide to the Popefuls of Conclave 2013<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFSxF-bdfbheUOcdeK8kzanRAQrB_mT_grMTeFPICOa9qJfKTx3hafKLUDhZrMqYjSc7IYOwaBphu6gQg3w989OWeSYAHVidjg9Tk8zH190k6A4Lsgh0X9UeDWMiyJs-reNasIjHJ96Y/s1600/httpwww.kwasistudios.comimagesblogpopestork.jpg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="baby new pope stork" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCFSxF-bdfbheUOcdeK8kzanRAQrB_mT_grMTeFPICOa9qJfKTx3hafKLUDhZrMqYjSc7IYOwaBphu6gQg3w989OWeSYAHVidjg9Tk8zH190k6A4Lsgh0X9UeDWMiyJs-reNasIjHJ96Y/s400/httpwww.kwasistudios.comimagesblogpopestork.jpg.jpg" title="Stork delivering the New Pope" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US">As you likely already know (especially if
you follow this blog, as it’s just about all I can think about right now) the
papal election is only a day away. It’s probably about time we take a look at
the front-runners before we Roman Catholics head to the polls. Oh, right, I
forgot. We don’t get to pick our leader. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Be that as it may, I know that when I’m standing
in that crowd of 100,000 or more people in St. Peter’s Square, waiting for the
name of the new pope to be announced, I’m going to want to know whether to cheer
with abandon and hope for the future of the church, or shake my head and think,
“More of the same…”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After my last two mega-posts (particularly <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/how-conclave-works-all-rules-and.html" target="_blank">yesterday’s ridiculous 3,162-word tome</a> that took me<strike> nearly </strike>literally the
entire day to write), my solicitous <i>maritino</i>
tactfully suggested that if I wanted my readers to actually read my posts (all
the way through), I’d do best to consider shortening them just a tad. And as
unpleasant as it is to admit your spouse is right, I think he is. Now, if
I had a<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/08/are-italian-women-really-unhappy.html" target="_blank"> typical Italian husband</a>, this is where I’d probably insert a
joke about him only being concerned that my over-zealous blogging was
preventing me from preparing his beloved nightly pasta. No, dearest bloglings,
not even a hint! Yes, I got one of the good ones, but more on that another time
(definitely after conclave).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">So back to our friendly cardinals, one of
who will have, in just a few days, the power to change the world. In Italian, a
cardinal who is considered a strong candidate for the papacy is called a <i>papabile</i> (plural: <i>papabili</i>), literally pope-able. Frankly, I prefer Stephen Colbert’s
term, “Popeful.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Out of the 115 cardinal-electors
participating in conclave this year, there are according to some up to 30 <i>papabili</i>, although for reasons mentioned
above, I will be writing a much more abbreviated list.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCN3xiQnBl3c6j_q4v8JGhIAibtzbizwkFmzWoQqt8zy3gdWhKvl1m8HLgROe-hm3Xlnmd55tEuRWhGIn_qAJTBwtuaIp4UzUFOkdD3yECMHCqth4E2I36Uq4UbyLS6701gFjOK7q3Loo/s1600/AngeloScola.22-03-2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCN3xiQnBl3c6j_q4v8JGhIAibtzbizwkFmzWoQqt8zy3gdWhKvl1m8HLgROe-hm3Xlnmd55tEuRWhGIn_qAJTBwtuaIp4UzUFOkdD3yECMHCqth4E2I36Uq4UbyLS6701gFjOK7q3Loo/s200/AngeloScola.22-03-2009.jpg" width="133" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Angelo Scola of Italy. Archbishop of Milan.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Card. Scola is the clear front runner for
this race. He’s got what some people consider the perfect combination of an
Italian with tons of experience, and yet someone who has never actually worked
inside the Vatican, so he can’t be blamed for the recent mismanagement of the
Church. </span>Out of all the others, he is the cardinal
considered most likely to gain the 2/3 majority. But in Rome there is an
expression, “He who goes into a conclave a pope, comes out a cardinal.” So maybe we shouldn’t bet on Scola yet. (Although he’s being given excellent odds
with the bookies in town!) What could go against him: his name was dropped in the
Vatileaks scandal last year as someone who should replace Benedict XVI.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmIojmN58d05ggXVWWMaOK5swyJi_V9-LqMQ3qLE0ge5Zw33j6-H-Uc_fXJ_qOcp9R05qJ9oHK-w2p56jzT8WFJ3LSlIm9O1rhNWtFhgHiu7FlMLfwaV8bkMXILexLT0lwYRMlCcsN1DE/s1600/Leonardo_Sandri.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmIojmN58d05ggXVWWMaOK5swyJi_V9-LqMQ3qLE0ge5Zw33j6-H-Uc_fXJ_qOcp9R05qJ9oHK-w2p56jzT8WFJ3LSlIm9O1rhNWtFhgHiu7FlMLfwaV8bkMXILexLT0lwYRMlCcsN1DE/s200/Leonardo_Sandri.jpg" width="125" /></a><b>Cardinal Leonardo Sandri of Argentina. <span lang="EN-US">Prefect for the Congregations of the Eastern Churches.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A few weeks ago, I predicted Card. Sandri
for pope, and I still think he has a good shot, but in recent weeks, it’s
seeming less likely. No one seems to be talking about him. Still, to me, on
paper, Sandri is the ideal candidate. He covers all the bases for what it is
believed the cardinals are looking for in the future pope: as a South American
he has a deep understanding of the church outside Europe, but he has also spent
most of his life in Italy and has worked as an high-level administrator in the
Vatican. He proved himself as a good organizer when he worked directly under
John Paul II. What could go against him: he could be blamed for the poor
organization in the Vatican of recent years (although he left his previous
position several years ago).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojPl4YcM5tgsv_jhyDB176GQxsVz32FOhBpKLOHs1dynjZ3KR9MOCBBEbL59FTSvwCmbOxI8QCF3z2l2UZpOZQ8th9sFuODn6yYLpEFTr9AxR2YAAomQ6bM9VBLlAVWTA6RLJU3N5ics/s1600/ArchbishopO%2527MalleyProcession.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojPl4YcM5tgsv_jhyDB176GQxsVz32FOhBpKLOHs1dynjZ3KR9MOCBBEbL59FTSvwCmbOxI8QCF3z2l2UZpOZQ8th9sFuODn6yYLpEFTr9AxR2YAAomQ6bM9VBLlAVWTA6RLJU3N5ics/s200/ArchbishopO%2527MalleyProcession.jpg" width="113" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Séan Patrick O’Malley of the United States. Archbishop of Boston.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">If Card. Sandri is who I <i>think</i> could become pope, Card. O’Malley
is who I <i>hope</i> will become pope. I was
first introduced to him by Patricia Thomas on her wonderful blog, <i><a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/2013/my-cappuccino-cardinal-sean-omalley-of-boston/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a></i>, which I have mentioned
several times lately. Read her post on him, as she is a fan as well, for much more
insight than I could hope to give. I just have a gut reaction to O’Malley.
First of all, he’s a monk, and you can’t get much humbler than that. He shuns
the Cardinal red and instead wears a simple cassock and hood of a Capuchin as
he goes about his business here in Rome. He took over in Boston after the
Bernard Law fiasco, and has worked tirelessly advocating for the victims of sex abuse by priests. What could go against him: he is well known for his
reputation as a reformer, and the big Italian bloc inside the Vatican curia will
do anything to keep him from becoming pope and challenging their status quo.
But miracles can happen!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoko90Nb1Yn8R-EA13reJpPuknspCvbUlDoNO1_1t2fuAVD2BbKRJErMWCMWESMuslZr1p2wVJyA8jI1brfL1ywOoMrYimcu9Xve9QRk9p5dVukCqfGRd0QJw_aulFHag22523jEGjXos/s1600/Archbishop_Timothy_Dolan_20090519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoko90Nb1Yn8R-EA13reJpPuknspCvbUlDoNO1_1t2fuAVD2BbKRJErMWCMWESMuslZr1p2wVJyA8jI1brfL1ywOoMrYimcu9Xve9QRk9p5dVukCqfGRd0QJw_aulFHag22523jEGjXos/s200/Archbishop_Timothy_Dolan_20090519.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="150" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Timothy Dolan of the United States. Archbishop of New York.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Card. Dolan is an energetic powerhouse of a
cardinal, and despite being a dreaded American, he is generally well liked by
the Italian faction. The Italian paper<i> <a href="http://www.repubblica.it/" target="_blank">La Repubblica</a></i> calls him a “shadow
candidate,” as he could be a potential compromise candidate for the two
opposing factions, being called the Romans vs. the Reformers. While certainly
not as change-hungry as O’Malley, Dolan has acknowledged that the church is in
crisis and some reform is necessary. What I like about him is that he gets
things done. He prefers to do things himself, instead of delegating them to
others, which can only be a good thing. What could go against him: he is seen
by some as “too American,” with little understanding of the rest of the world,
and very poor foreign language skills.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0Uu4q2TMHJSJqZBrE26BT3JWmFAdLAsmh7RTwzkEZAB3z-zfSTXiIIj_6NK__4uDtPJgsTQ9lHHTcNzNrZqWdFronpRuu6PW0q17esTxDDAMUmqXCCaTwPis8TkIJQ-gu4SJXHe-B8k/s1600/Odilo_Scherer_22072007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI0Uu4q2TMHJSJqZBrE26BT3JWmFAdLAsmh7RTwzkEZAB3z-zfSTXiIIj_6NK__4uDtPJgsTQ9lHHTcNzNrZqWdFronpRuu6PW0q17esTxDDAMUmqXCCaTwPis8TkIJQ-gu4SJXHe-B8k/s200/Odilo_Scherer_22072007.jpg" width="132" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Odilo Pedro Scherer of Brazil. Archbishop of Sao Paolo.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">There has been lots of talk lately about
this Brazilian candidate of German descent. He is highly favored to be elected,
particularly because of his close ties with those in power in the Vatican curia. But my mother always said, “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at
all,” so… Next!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkIk02XidUMHx078kwa-XecfSHcKaZ3OmQssVHFOh8nXCHJ4mtV10Q1HRc_U3_GBIqhNHo86dhYcRUkcLunm6JG4Ky-k13rKTYjQo8uYqPdCBEjeX_sbKozivNCNmUqfGLFv2CZYVDnw/s1600/AntonioLuisGokimTaglePublication.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkIk02XidUMHx078kwa-XecfSHcKaZ3OmQssVHFOh8nXCHJ4mtV10Q1HRc_U3_GBIqhNHo86dhYcRUkcLunm6JG4Ky-k13rKTYjQo8uYqPdCBEjeX_sbKozivNCNmUqfGLFv2CZYVDnw/s200/AntonioLuisGokimTaglePublication.jpg" width="187" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Luis Antonio Tagle of the Philippines. Archbishop of Manila.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I’d like to imagine a Roman Catholic Church
in which a man like Cardinal Tagle could be elected. Vatican expert John L.
Allen says that if the cardinals’ first priority were to have a pope who would
be a moving, rousing evangelizer, capable of “setting people on
fire with enthusiasm for the faith, and if they wanted that evangelizer to
come from outside the West," Tagle would be the obvious choice. He is only 55
years old, and widely considered the most charismatic and dynamic candidate,
and is also admired for his simplicity and humility, (he gets around only by bike or on public transport). What could go against him: there are very few
electors from Asia, and without a strong faction behind him, he will have a
hard time gaining the 2/3 majority. He also is very unfamiliar with the
workings of the Vatican. (Or maybe that’s a good thing?)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKQtGjXW966qG9ZvyQrG41fx7LPHMciXS4tKCka2JiPM08IdGCqbNHvkWDUYZli88vucF8UbmRcm9IhgAadWdWK0J3l40xTrfR0AG4Eqys1GoTPcrVvOl3DXV2Ud0VpVmTpjT35N-z7wY/s1600/Cardinalouellet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKQtGjXW966qG9ZvyQrG41fx7LPHMciXS4tKCka2JiPM08IdGCqbNHvkWDUYZli88vucF8UbmRcm9IhgAadWdWK0J3l40xTrfR0AG4Eqys1GoTPcrVvOl3DXV2Ud0VpVmTpjT35N-z7wY/s200/Cardinalouellet.jpg" width="200" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Marc Ouellet of Canada. Prefect of the Congregation for Bishops.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Card Ouellet’s combination of fierce
intellect, near-fluency in six languages, and several years of missionary
experience in Colombia makes him a very interesting candidate for pope. To that
he combines years of experience inside the Vatican. What could go against him: He
is said to radiate prayerfulness and spirituality, which you would think would
be ideal characteristics in a pope, but some think he might be overlooked
because his inherent goodness might make it difficult for him to make the tough
decisions that inevitably await a pope.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1xgiF8cPdFuZUw3xRAUWcxtMI9PwKQZ4yiiszwhsicbh5t74POAzlwv7r-im-R3VteiRxFCwsy8reOIGcq3t76GhjjcmolhftcBeoJR5IiukrYAgW9mcmWQprtN5uDBzFXzcpacbOlYA/s1600/Christoph_Sch%25C3%25B6nborn_%2528Gerusalemme%252C_08.11.2007%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1xgiF8cPdFuZUw3xRAUWcxtMI9PwKQZ4yiiszwhsicbh5t74POAzlwv7r-im-R3VteiRxFCwsy8reOIGcq3t76GhjjcmolhftcBeoJR5IiukrYAgW9mcmWQprtN5uDBzFXzcpacbOlYA/s200/Christoph_Sch%25C3%25B6nborn_%2528Gerusalemme%252C_08.11.2007%2529.JPG" width="89" /></a><b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal
Christoph Schonborn of Austria. Archbishop of Vienna.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">John L. Allen, in his series of articles, <i><a href="http://ncronline.org/blogs/ncr-today/papabile-day-men-who-could-be-pope-6" target="_blank">Papabile of the Day, the Men who could be Pope</a></i>, describes Card. Schonborn as <span class="apple-converted-space">“</span>either an obvious,
slam-dunk contender or somebody who's basically taken himself out of the
running.” He’s something of a wild card, and not the most diplomatic of
cardinals, but he has spoken out strongly against the sex abuse issues inside the
church (he, along with Card. Tagle, are the only two <i>papabili</i> not implicated in any way in any of the sex abuse
cover-ups). In fact, he stirred up more than a little trouble with Secretary of
State Bertone and some other big-wigs in the Vatican curia, and he is
definitely not in their good books. This might just work in his favor for those
cardinals who are desirous of a change to the “old guard” and looking for
someone who has no qualms about standing up to his opponents. What could go
against him: those very same big-wigs will stop at nothing to prevent him from
becoming pope, as they would probably all lose their cushy positions. Perhaps
even more damning, the situation in Austria is a mess, which makes it look like
he’s lacking in the all-important organizational and administrative department.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGamfTQ20dmexpz98w8EkqlDJM_SPYfr-rzutVpMx0D8McunfnJ3yT_gFieM3kR7P4iA5xS35lG-PkstyZ6yBEuF3wEiJ5W8FdBZwkasisPnZghj7_obydgTqGtTlho72DUh8Z4XgQOZ8/s1600/401px-Cardinal_Tukson_987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGamfTQ20dmexpz98w8EkqlDJM_SPYfr-rzutVpMx0D8McunfnJ3yT_gFieM3kR7P4iA5xS35lG-PkstyZ6yBEuF3wEiJ5W8FdBZwkasisPnZghj7_obydgTqGtTlho72DUh8Z4XgQOZ8/s200/401px-Cardinal_Tukson_987.jpg" width="133" /></a><br />
<b><span lang="EN-US">Cardinal Peter Turkson of Ghana. President for the Pontifical Council for Justice and Peace.</span></b><br />
<span lang="EN-US">Getting
the number three best odds with bookies is the friendly, popular and
dynamic Card Turkson, the most likely out of all the African candidates.
Turkson is favored both for his long pastoral experience of 17 years in
the the diocese of Cape Coast, and for his administrative skills,
proven in his current post. In addition, he conveniently answers the
desire for a pope to represent the most growing Catholic population, yet
without being an outsider. Another plus is his advocation for
Catholic/Muslim relations, a very timely plus on his resume. What could
go against him: a few recent shenanigans have asked many to question his
judgement. He once showed biased and already discredited YouTube video
on Muslim immigration in Europe at a synod, he has made questionable remarks linking homosexuality with pedophilia,
and some claim he is unabashedly campaigning for the papacy (posters
with his face mysteriously appeared around Rome with the words "<i>Vota
Turkson</i>").</span><br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Whoever is elected in the coming days (or
weeks?), I think just having so many far flung countries represented on this
list is a very good sign for the future of the Church. But what about you? Who
do you think will be the next pope? Someone on this list or one of the number
of other <i>papabili</i>? I’d love to hear
who you’re predicting and why, so please leave a comment! (If you can't find the comment button, click on the title of the post and it should appear at the bottom.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">PS If you want to take a more active role
in this conclave, you can adopt your very own cardinal! I’m not kidding. <a href="https://www.adoptacardinal.org/" target="_blank">This website</a>
will assign you a cardinal-elector at random to pray for during conclave. Over
200,000 people have already signed up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">More conclave posts: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/a-short-history-of-conclave.html" target="_blank">A Short* History of Conclave</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/how-conclave-works-all-rules-and.html" target="_blank">How Conlave works: all the Rules and Rituals of the Papal Election</a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US"><i>Image sources: <a href="http://www.kwasistudios.com/pope-benedict-on-twitter/" target="_blank">1</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_papabili_in_the_2013_papal_conclave" target="_blank">all others</a></i></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-41832041561003859552013-03-10T23:46:00.000+01:002013-03-10T23:46:17.586+01:00How Conclave works: all the Rules and Rituals of the Papal Election<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHKXDarPYXCWPIZsaZxGpKhrc8ReCrFFD0Ooc7uZfXAl3lD1mqufX0M55_kzblcIDO8xiKVoV9qci8xeeBHIMlzTbdk8NfABgbcrjA1nlFW_nRHh_5hi1NxGkGEYqdzMB1F7CxVutVb9w/s1600/sistine-chapel-conclave-googled-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sistine Chapel Conclave" border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHKXDarPYXCWPIZsaZxGpKhrc8ReCrFFD0Ooc7uZfXAl3lD1mqufX0M55_kzblcIDO8xiKVoV9qci8xeeBHIMlzTbdk8NfABgbcrjA1nlFW_nRHh_5hi1NxGkGEYqdzMB1F7CxVutVb9w/s400/sistine-chapel-conclave-googled-image.jpg" title="Sistine Chapel ready for Conclave" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sistine Chapel ready for Conclave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This
historic conclave, the first in nearly 600 years during which the previous pope
is still alive, will begin Tuesday, 12 March. If you read <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/03/a-short-history-of-conclave.html" target="_blank">my last conclave post</a>
(and kudos to you if you did), you are now familiar with the history of
conclave and how it evolved over the years. Now you want to know exactly what
goes on in that secret, boys-only ritual that decides the most influential man
in the Catholic world, the successor of St. Peter, and the Vicar of Christ on
Earth?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Well,
read on, dear bloglings, read on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">For
those of you who like superlatives, it should be noted that the Papal Conclave
is the longest on-going process of choosing the leader of any institution. I
think that is what makes it so exciting. The sense of
continuity is one of the things I find so fascinating about Rome in general,
and conclave is a part of that. Being present in the square for the Habemus
Papam, regardless of your religion or views on the papacy, is a way to
participate in that 954-year tradition and be a part of history.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">As
you already know, only cardinals can elect the pope, although not all of them.
Any cardinal over 80 is barred from participating in conclave, and therefore
much less likely to be elected. In all practicality it is unthinkable in our
time that someone not participating in conclave would be elected. But in fact,
the rules make any confirmed Catholic male eligible to be elected pope, but it
hasn’t happened since 1378. It’s about as likely as a write-in candidate
winning the presidency. Part of the reason for the age limit is so that the new
pope will not be excessively old when he takes office.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This
time around, there are 115 cardinal-electors participating. That number would
have been 117, but 2 voting-age cardinals have requested not to participate: Cardinal
Julius Riyadi Darmaamadja of Jakarta, Indonesia, for health reasons, and—much
more scandalous—<a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/feb/25/cardinal-keith-obrien-resigns" target="_blank">Cardinal Keith O’Brien of Edinburgh</a> Scotland, who resigned his
position a few weeks ago after accusations (which he later confirmed) arose
regarding his inappropriate sexual behavior toward a number of other priests. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Ordinarily,
after the death of a pope, a mourning period of 15 days is observed before
conclave can begin. Pope Emeritus (aka the Artist Formerly Known as Pope
Benedict XVI) made a last-minute change in conclave rules before officially
stepping down on 28 February, eliminating that waiting period in his
case, since clearly there was no death to mourn. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">With
the expectation that conclave would begin sometime this coming week, two very
important things have been going on in Vatican City this past week. Firstly, as
the cardinals arrive from all corners of the globe, they have been
participating in General Congregation meetings. These amount to an abbreviated
campaign period in which the cardinals can speak about the issues that need to
be considered in regard to the choosing of the new pope, and as pertain to the
future of the Church. I have been following my friend and AP journalist
Patricia Thomas’ posts on her blog <i><a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/blog/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a></i> for all the details
regarding these meetings. Papal Spokesman Father Federico Lombardi holds daily
press conferences for accredited journalists in which important news is
imparted, although the cardinals are held to a vow of secrecy for the General
Congregation meetings just as for conclave itself. I learned from Trisha that
perhaps the most important part of the meetings are the lengthy coffee breaks
during which the cardinals have a change to get to know each other better and
discuss their ideas face to face. Both cardinal-electors and –non-electors are
welcome to participate in these meetings. It was during the 8<sup>th</sup>
General Congregation Friday that the starting date of conclave was voted on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
other important process taking place all week is, of course, the preparation of
the Sistine Chapel. The chapel closed to the public on Tuesday 5 March at
1:15pm. You might be wondering how it could possibly take a week to prepare for
an election room. Just set up some tables and call it done! Well, there are—as
you might have imagined—many regulations to follow. Nothing about conclave is
arbitrary. An Apostolic Constitution regulates every detail of the ritual.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLotphRoaADT4tqYIb8mpo1FTTR3N4z6finbE6oxq_JvmLhGLvyKskMugocXUXfZ6K_Glh7g8Wi73rB7XgtaW9W5jQtevnNmgYWrucU2KV1KaKnOa2CxOnrB0IotTnW-n6SiqO_HtLdY/s1600/Sistine+chapel+platform+conclave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sistine chapel platform conclave" border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLotphRoaADT4tqYIb8mpo1FTTR3N4z6finbE6oxq_JvmLhGLvyKskMugocXUXfZ6K_Glh7g8Wi73rB7XgtaW9W5jQtevnNmgYWrucU2KV1KaKnOa2CxOnrB0IotTnW-n6SiqO_HtLdY/s400/Sistine+chapel+platform+conclave.jpg" title="Sistine chapel floor platform for Conclave" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sistine Chapel floor platform being prepared for Conclave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Firstly,
a platform of wood, supported by metal tubes, is erected and covered with beige carpeting. This serves several
purposes. First, it protects the ornate marble floor from damage by the stove.
(There is in fact a small orange stain on one of the pale floor tiles that was
stained in a previous conclave.) It also creates a level surface, as there are
a few steps and ramps in the chapel that would make setting up long tables
impossible. Lastly, the raised surface symbolizes the idea that the cardinals
must not be tied down with Earthly concerns during the election. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzY8yQP4sPSzuBKx2yAL7m8yYNTdFq3XGyuYwYBkBFc_wOlLFs38orbPv7RGWeZOe596hN1AIO9td7FVqX0ukg-FQtkGKAs51CgOVDJyqGyT_Zcf83Hng1mgvO1l9cQMAp-tn49i5_J-w/s1600/Conclave+stoves+Sala+Regia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Conclave stoves Sala Regia" border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzY8yQP4sPSzuBKx2yAL7m8yYNTdFq3XGyuYwYBkBFc_wOlLFs38orbPv7RGWeZOe596hN1AIO9td7FVqX0ukg-FQtkGKAs51CgOVDJyqGyT_Zcf83Hng1mgvO1l9cQMAp-tn49i5_J-w/s400/Conclave+stoves+Sala+Regia.jpg" title="Preparing Conclave stoves Sala Regia" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing the Conclave stoves in the Sala Regia. CBS News</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Another necessity
during conclave is the stove that burns the ballots. In fact, there are two
stoves. One burns the ballots after every two voting sessions, and the other is fed with chemicals that produce the tell-tale smoke that will signal to the
city of Rome and the world whether that balloting has produced a pope. The
emission of black smoke tells us there is no new pope, and white smoke means
there is. The smoke of both stoves travels up a copper pipe that exits the
chapel through the window in the southeast corner of the chapel. The chimney
stack was set up yesterday and the chapel has been swept for bugs and recording
devices, although it has not been reported that any were found.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGGEsYr7saIqEB0zpbvR0Ln5EeFbQLkMONhZb3C4rmJKQD97vQmjjQ_QgI3cNP1SKkGpXN2wFjigAjY0AYrB0WUgYwE59S5YHGOq8QKn2WjGcnx7uvvwUXNjXsTv-FlXHm9EQ0oromJU/s1600/Sistine+Chapel+conclave+stoves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sistine Chapel conclave stoves" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGGEsYr7saIqEB0zpbvR0Ln5EeFbQLkMONhZb3C4rmJKQD97vQmjjQ_QgI3cNP1SKkGpXN2wFjigAjY0AYrB0WUgYwE59S5YHGOq8QKn2WjGcnx7uvvwUXNjXsTv-FlXHm9EQ0oromJU/s400/Sistine+Chapel+conclave+stoves.jpg" title="Sistine Chapel Conclave stoves" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conclave stoves in the Sistine Chapel </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">With the combination of the media coverage and the popularity of Dan Brown’s <i>Angels and Demons</i>, everyone
knows by now that the word conclave comes from the Latin, <i>con clave</i> (with key),
called such because since the 13<sup>th </sup>century, the cardinal-electors
have been ceremoniously locked up during the election, to prevent endless
indecision and outside interference, and to secure secrecy. To this day the
chapel is literally locked and sealed while the cardinals are inside.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsFfbN12jSgud9EFqbb6pMGm6tddMLWuTiUPF2DPxnAl_FYU4mZw0A_5NTtuZnpUqebBP9gyxGrEcj8B3TD-dpLD2FHNZTqNhF69uYR4JzOLNruQbPDlbWzvPxmmwvDNXzcAlLRot_h0/s1600/Sistine+Chapel+ready+for+conclave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sistine Chapel prepared conclave" border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSsFfbN12jSgud9EFqbb6pMGm6tddMLWuTiUPF2DPxnAl_FYU4mZw0A_5NTtuZnpUqebBP9gyxGrEcj8B3TD-dpLD2FHNZTqNhF69uYR4JzOLNruQbPDlbWzvPxmmwvDNXzcAlLRot_h0/s400/Sistine+Chapel+ready+for+conclave.jpg" title="Sistine Chapel prepared conclave" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sistine Chapel prepared for conclave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">As
you may know if you’ve ever visited the Sistine Chapel, it has five doorways.
One, is a tourist entrance from the Vatican Museums, two are tourist exits, one
leading back into the museums, and one to St. Peter’s. These three doors have
already been locked and sealed for the entirely of conclave. (According to
<i><a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/2013/red-ribbons-scotch-tape-gold-rings-and-clunky-crosses/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a></i>, they were sealed with Scotch tape!) A fourth door leads to the Sala del Pianto, or
the Room of Tears (we’ll get back to that later). And the ceremonial and most
important entrance is the set of double doors that leads to the Sala Regia, or
Royal Hall, guarded by Swiss Guards (on the other side) at all times, which will be sealed during voting only. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">But
a question that often comes up is, where to the Cardinals eat and sleep? From
what I can discover, there was never a time in which all the cardinal-electors
were confined to the Sistine Chapel only for the entire conclave. However, all the way up to the 21<sup>st</sup> century, they were housed in the Apostolic Palace, both
inside the Sistine Chapel and in the Sala Regia. They did not have private
rooms, but instead in little temporary cubicles that were furnished with
nothing more than a cot and a washbasin, with only one bathroom for every ten
electors (or, in earlier times, each cardinal had his own chamber pot). Food
was brought in through a small door near the Pauline Chapel, as can be seen on
this floor plan showing each cardinal’s allotted space during the conclave of
1550. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfuZG4kGMoRqawR6s1B5HAm3rKtHGcdBUizw7zgCKt0yjlNc1wUZ_GKaN8iO1agd9siJU7ckm4RPmYoZaTHip0o-9z8oR5yBb-w9nF0MJebzZ3it9tKLtpRupI5Y2AaLkKzBVUVY6pU64/s1600/Conclave+cell+floor+plan+1550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Conclave cell floorplan 1550" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfuZG4kGMoRqawR6s1B5HAm3rKtHGcdBUizw7zgCKt0yjlNc1wUZ_GKaN8iO1agd9siJU7ckm4RPmYoZaTHip0o-9z8oR5yBb-w9nF0MJebzZ3it9tKLtpRupI5Y2AaLkKzBVUVY6pU64/s640/Conclave+cell+floor+plan+1550.JPG" title="Conclave cell floorplan 1550" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floorplan of Cardinal's cells, Conclave of 1550, Vatican Secret Archives</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Crystal King’s blog post, <i><a href="http://crystalking.com/blog/2013/03/01/the-renaissance-papal-conclave-what-did-they-eat/" target="_blank">The Renaissance Papal Conclave: What did they eat?</a></i>, she reports that pies,
whole chickens and the like were banned by 1550 because it was too easy to hide
secret messages (probably bribes) inside. For fans of <i><a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/rome-in-time-of-borgias-has-anything.html" target="_blank">The Borgias</a></i>, you’ll
remember this is exactly what was depicted as happening in the 1492 election.
Also, to preserve secrecy, the windows would be closed and shuttered at all
times. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Quoted
in the book<i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Conclave-Politics-Personalities-Process-Elections/dp/0385504535" target="_blank"> Conclave</a></i>, by John L. Allen, Jr., Cardinal Siri (who was nearly
elected instead of John Paul II) recalls of the conclave of August 1978,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> <i>We
were dying of heat, asphyxiation seemed to be getting the upper hand and I
noticed that some cardinals were on the verge of collapse. Then I rebelled, … I
said, ‘I order you to open the windows.’ Some responded, ‘Eminence, it is not
permitted to open the windows.’<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Eventually
the cardinal got his way and the windows were opened, but it was the last time
the electors were forced to sleep in semi-private cells in the Apostolic
palace. The Casa Santa Marta is a residence inside the Vatican built
specifically to house the cardinals during conclave. It was used for the first
time during the conclave of 2005. The rooms are simply furnished and host two
cardinals each. Much like in first-year college dorms, the cardinals do not get
to pick their roommates.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8svXvavwzku2F9UaK5IP1lKocN71fv_E5wnDINbIigLwZJhx8URJrCyIM6WjxenIlE_tP5Vj1tdX-YMX3wpa_Gpnxp0tyFc5FoGIHzOdhDIje499LPrWWzHzAmU5cyz67tPefWNAY7co/s1600/Typical+Cardinal's+room,+Santa+Marta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Santa Marta Cardinal's Room" border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8svXvavwzku2F9UaK5IP1lKocN71fv_E5wnDINbIigLwZJhx8URJrCyIM6WjxenIlE_tP5Vj1tdX-YMX3wpa_Gpnxp0tyFc5FoGIHzOdhDIje499LPrWWzHzAmU5cyz67tPefWNAY7co/s400/Typical+Cardinal's+room,+Santa+Marta.jpg" title="Cardinal's Room Santa Marta" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical cardinal's room at Santa Marta's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So
now we’ve covered what happens leading up to conclave. But what about during?
In this case, following a Mass for the Election of a New Pontiff in St. Peter’s
Basilica Tuesday morning, the cardinal-electors will be transferred to the
Apostolic Palace where they will gather for prayer in the Pauline Chapel at
3:35pm. At 4:30 they will enter the Sistine Chapel singing <i>Veni Creator
Spiritus</i>, a 9<sup>th</sup>-century hymn that invokes the Holy Spirit. It is
believed that the Holy Spirit chooses the new pope through the cardinals. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVgEbas27h1QDC8DbI0nsxqU9JJ0utxXvMph3JTcHYsfYFZDtjbiHeZsgYd3BhT4kEJ6XCIPMC4esqaFepJXcVoskHKL8x8zUtvIRHZU_RuqCC7vIgO6_xWp2rr9QxxQTohB4cki3Er4o/s1600/Cardinal's+entering+Sistine+Chapel+for+conclave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cardinals Sala Regia Conclave Sistine Chapel" border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVgEbas27h1QDC8DbI0nsxqU9JJ0utxXvMph3JTcHYsfYFZDtjbiHeZsgYd3BhT4kEJ6XCIPMC4esqaFepJXcVoskHKL8x8zUtvIRHZU_RuqCC7vIgO6_xWp2rr9QxxQTohB4cki3Er4o/s400/Cardinal's+entering+Sistine+Chapel+for+conclave.jpg" title="Cardinals enter Sistine Chapel for Conclave" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cardinals prepare to enter Sistine Chapel for Conclave, Sala Regia. 17 April 2005<br /><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">© </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px; text-align: start;">Arturo Mari/AFP/Getty Images</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
cardinal-electors will be administered an oath in which they make vows of
secrecy as well as not to communicate with the outside world. (A new, very 21<sup>st</sup>-century
rule has been added that bans the cardinals from communicating by Twitter or any
other digital means.) At this point, Piero Marini, the Master of the Papal
Liturgical Celebrations calls, “<i>Extra omnes</i>!” (everybody else, out!) and anyone
not participating in conclave will be kicked out and Marini will close the
doors. The cardinals will then be led in a brief meditation by 88-year old
Cardinal Prosper Grech, a non-elector chosen during General Congregation, after
which both he and Marini will exit to the Sala Regia, the doors will be locked
and sealed, and the good stuff will begin. The first balloting will take
place around 5pm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDQNrz2iL2mtD9qpzP1vZv0P1ySTDrrqlBFj0TsFro7k4S7RP3L2jNDkMzb5kKtLi4Gu_7ANc8ARhysV6xhPP06SZjkZ-wWO6-rcLAjnKiJIet6D8gkmJ_l6u_8FUQ3szH2XaLMzrxzTQ/s1600/sistine-chapel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Closing Sistine Chapel doors conclave" border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDQNrz2iL2mtD9qpzP1vZv0P1ySTDrrqlBFj0TsFro7k4S7RP3L2jNDkMzb5kKtLi4Gu_7ANc8ARhysV6xhPP06SZjkZ-wWO6-rcLAjnKiJIet6D8gkmJ_l6u_8FUQ3szH2XaLMzrxzTQ/s400/sistine-chapel.jpg" title="Archbishop Piero Marini closes Sistine Chapel doors Conclave" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Archbishop Piero Marini, 18 April 2005. <span style="line-height: 14px;">© Reuters/Osservatore Romano<br /></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKnoSD3GXk510N2kqVVDnYHuCKI8tXLyiRB8jGqYi_f2qDUV8b13994jOYFN9vtqKVobs-ocZi_7UiZCZeHDmoNwlD1gMQo1t6zrGftmu_OnHZ66jk8Qvc82WJsdb5ESUPUhdXdo7c5Q/s1600/Sealing+of+Sistine+Chapel+for+Conclave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sealing Sistine Chapel Conclave" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKnoSD3GXk510N2kqVVDnYHuCKI8tXLyiRB8jGqYi_f2qDUV8b13994jOYFN9vtqKVobs-ocZi_7UiZCZeHDmoNwlD1gMQo1t6zrGftmu_OnHZ66jk8Qvc82WJsdb5ESUPUhdXdo7c5Q/s400/Sealing+of+Sistine+Chapel+for+Conclave.jpg" title="Sealing the Sistine Chapel, Conclave 2005" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sealing the Sistine Chapel, Conclave 2005, ABC News</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
process of voting is also steeped in ritual. One the first day of voting, only
one ballot, or scrutiny, takes place. The cardinals take their seats at long tables along the sides of the chapel and hand write the candidate of their choice on a
small card on which are written the words, “<i>Eligo in summum pontificem…</i>” (I
elect as supreme Pontiff…). These cards are anonymous and the electors are asked to disguise their handwriting. This was not always the case; until 1945, the cardinal's name would also be on the ballot, folded over so that it would be hidden until the time that the election was concluded. In this way, it would be known, at least for the final scrutiny, who voted for whom. This was necessary because of old rules that prohibited a cardinal casting the deciding vote for himself (in certain cases).</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVP_Xq74F9ndxJDzJHnP5iTth843LzFOjMtCEDIgpRnxQ-tPrQlcu1FLCuta2jF64KKb9vLMWymmARKvot9F-eQ3lzF9pyUcxydLblQGJ_Kj2dRy6cORVb8pBN3FydkXP6_2XkQwxRac/s1600/IMG_1576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Conclave ballot cards" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVP_Xq74F9ndxJDzJHnP5iTth843LzFOjMtCEDIgpRnxQ-tPrQlcu1FLCuta2jF64KKb9vLMWymmARKvot9F-eQ3lzF9pyUcxydLblQGJ_Kj2dRy6cORVb8pBN3FydkXP6_2XkQwxRac/s400/IMG_1576.JPG" title="Conclave ballot cards, 1775" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Papal ballots for the Conclave that elected Pope Pius VI, 1775, Vatican Secret Archives</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">One by one, the cardinals approach the bench where
the Camerlengo (Papal Chamberlain), in this case Secretary of State Cardinal
Tarcisio Pietro Bertone), and his three assistants, (chosen by lot and called Scrutineers) sit. The cardinal-elector will hold his folded vote card above his
head and place it in the <strike>Goblet of Fire</strike> ceremonial urn, reciting an oath in
Latin, vowing that he is voting for the person he thinks should be elected.
This is to prevent the electors from casting “courtesy votes” that can prolong
elections . <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRPyIDqd0yufi4uTB4fPDlxSTEqgfIKOMf9oDLKWwoIf9-rpbsSnj54NHiYbiXurfscbu_MmfoGDcHQhhvxcxPOgCxQf7XOeB35kgA1vGFwU0iwJEtZJZVHUC-kGpCXSqTzOwJo6CiQWU/s1600/Conclave+urns.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Conclave ballot urns" border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRPyIDqd0yufi4uTB4fPDlxSTEqgfIKOMf9oDLKWwoIf9-rpbsSnj54NHiYbiXurfscbu_MmfoGDcHQhhvxcxPOgCxQf7XOeB35kgA1vGFwU0iwJEtZJZVHUC-kGpCXSqTzOwJo6CiQWU/s400/Conclave+urns.jpg" title="Conclave ballot urns" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conclave ballot urns</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Once
all the cardinals have voted, the first Scrutineer mixes up the votes, which
are then taken out and counted. If the number of votes does not correspond to
the number of electors, they are burned without being opened. If the number is
correct, they are opened one by one, passed amongst the three Scrutineers and
recorded by each of them in three separate ledgers. As the votes are recorded, they are pierced with a
needle and thread over the word “Eligo,” and tied together so that none go missing.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbN-eRGd8wfwQTYCz7-WqIOL47yq9tvRBcEYWWu8uYLH28h2S1fOBrMSY3_lTADTC3frAjMcPFCypmdk6iqzDfbK-TfVXki915wYh1gpmmdItzHq95WLzycHJqtrn3_JVYWnvhivbgI8/s1600/Conclave+voting+ledger,+1775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Conclave voting ledger register" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbN-eRGd8wfwQTYCz7-WqIOL47yq9tvRBcEYWWu8uYLH28h2S1fOBrMSY3_lTADTC3frAjMcPFCypmdk6iqzDfbK-TfVXki915wYh1gpmmdItzHq95WLzycHJqtrn3_JVYWnvhivbgI8/s640/Conclave+voting+ledger,+1775.JPG" title="Conclave voting ledger, 1775" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conclave voting register, 1775, Vatican Secret Archives</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A
2/3 majority is need to elect a pope, although that rarely happens in the first
scrutiny. On Wednesday, the scrutiny process will be repeated twice in the
morning, sometime between 9:30 and noon, and twice in the afternoon, between
4:30 and 7pm. That is, unless a decision is reached before then. With the
exception of the first scrutiny on Tuesday afternoon, ballots are burned after
every two scrutinies, unless the pope is elected in the first of the two. This
will make it difficult for those of us who want to try to catch sight of some
smoke.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">During
the election of former Pope Benedict XVI, I witnessed only one emission of
smoke, on the first day, which was, of course, black. I was very disappointed
to miss the white smoke, and especially his first appearance. This year, I will
do everything I can to be there, for the Habemus Papam at least, if not the smoke, even if that means leaving work and hopping in
a taxi the moment I hear word. I have been assured that from the time the smoke
emerges from the chimney to the time the new pope appears, about 30-45 minutes
will pass. Fingers crossed! I only pray he that the new pope, whoever he may
be, will not be elected on Thursday evening, as I have tickets to the opera!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">If
a pope has not been elected by the end of Thursday, Friday the
cardinal-electors will take a day off to pray, and voting will resume Saturday.
In a new rule Benedict XVI issued in 2007, after 33 scrutinies, or 10 days of
balloting, another day of prayer is taken, and a run-off vote between the top 2
candidates takes place. It’s unlikely that this will happen, if the trend of
very short conclaves of the past half-century continues. All but one conclave
since 1939 has taken 2 days or fewer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So
the Scrutinies are finished and a pope has been chosen! It’s time for the big
moment! As soon as one of the cardinals receives the minimum 2/3 majority, the
cardinals will burst into applause. The Master of the Papal Liturgical
Celebrations Marini and the Dean of the College of Cardinals, 85-year-old
Angelo Sodano, will be invited back into the chapel, at which time Sodano will
approach the newly elected pope and ask, “Do you accept your canonical election
as supreme Pontiff?” You’d probably think, what cardinal would turn down such a
position? (Even though the resignation of Benedict XVI has proven that it's not every cardinal's dream to become pope). Cardinal (and
later Saint) Carlo Borromeo turned the papacy down in the 16<sup>th</sup>
century. But if the answer is yes, as
soon as the elected cardinal says “<i>Accepto</i>,” he is officially the pope. He will
then choose his papal name, often to show his respect and admiration for a previous
pope, and each cardinal will take turns kneeling before him to show their
homage and obedience. The white smoke is sent up and Rome knows she has a new
pope.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl3456rUDq76yqDBPDe0WAgybc7U8DWLrZGQsSY239J2LPVnyMEF3NolxRPTc1Dt74wtX83oHrZbUU3bEJkSoJpuiecpFKrfSnXmCiD-0R8djqnngRqTzGJfinrWBPZOup9et8Nq9k6_U/s1600/White+smoke+Sistine+Chapel+chimney+conclave+2005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="White Smoke Sistine Chapel Conclave" border="0" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl3456rUDq76yqDBPDe0WAgybc7U8DWLrZGQsSY239J2LPVnyMEF3NolxRPTc1Dt74wtX83oHrZbUU3bEJkSoJpuiecpFKrfSnXmCiD-0R8djqnngRqTzGJfinrWBPZOup9et8Nq9k6_U/s400/White+smoke+Sistine+Chapel+chimney+conclave+2005.jpg" title="White Smoke from Sistine Chapel Chimney, Conclave 2005" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Smoke from Sistine Chapel Chimney, Conclave 2005</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
new pope will then retire into the small Sala del Pianto through a door to the
left of the high altar, which I had the opportunity to visit briefly in 2009. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9Rz-6UkUTjHVlMfPzc9Ebjsg2sVioHiiUiBIgOLhnLzIFa5yh1SzlykZ46-A0zWJvo6o5MTmeJBBKnJIfol9jULxjwwFj0GgO-Lb_M4F9YbIssgWerIhGyRx-UW6uLG6-RxN_bXXcgU/s1600/Sala+del+Pianto+Vatican.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sala Pianto Room Tears Vatican" border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9Rz-6UkUTjHVlMfPzc9Ebjsg2sVioHiiUiBIgOLhnLzIFa5yh1SzlykZ46-A0zWJvo6o5MTmeJBBKnJIfol9jULxjwwFj0GgO-Lb_M4F9YbIssgWerIhGyRx-UW6uLG6-RxN_bXXcgU/s400/Sala+del+Pianto+Vatican.jpg" title="Sala del Pianto Vatican" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sala del Pianto, Vatican</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">There three sets of papal vestments will be laid out, in sizes small, medium,
and large. An anecdote has it that upon the election of Pope Jon XXIII, even
the largest size was too small and a tailor had to be summoned to adjust it to fit the
portly new pontiff. The “Room of Tears” is so called because the newly-elected
pope is often overcome with emotion once he is alone, breaking down to cry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxQ6Uw_QGm8FseryT43nEkyacdp5pLqNl3RGf32QkFeEg3o3dYOY7P4p8-HU5Pl0vffohvqwjHyjnS2x7zfy4oo0Bpoti7fbZxzSTBKR4tGiH8uaWsvZbWMabjF27Mh4YZlezzkPaSvQ/s1600/Sala+del+Pianto+with+3+Papal+Vestments.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sala Pianto Room Tears Papal Vestments" border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxQ6Uw_QGm8FseryT43nEkyacdp5pLqNl3RGf32QkFeEg3o3dYOY7P4p8-HU5Pl0vffohvqwjHyjnS2x7zfy4oo0Bpoti7fbZxzSTBKR4tGiH8uaWsvZbWMabjF27Mh4YZlezzkPaSvQ/s400/Sala+del+Pianto+with+3+Papal+Vestments.jpg" title="Sala del Pianto Papal Vestments" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sala del Pianto with Three Sizes of Papal Vestments</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After
he is dressed, the new pope will walk back through the Sistine Chapel, through
the Sala Regia and out onto the Benediction Loggia of St. Peter’s Basilica. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhexDFoPwvLqWC8dg3pbYb2zwHZrIyPRUL8DSa5iK9kXIYN_R5eI0XCQ-6TsKjtPeyXQiN6NrJD60WArGN0gt3FUB-Sk0dvEZBRph19uYugRIvJQqzlpG1rvZtjnzpzsamtcJbnPtBkDMI/s1600/SPETTACOLO-Habemus-Papam-int.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Habemus Papam Nanni Moretti" border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhexDFoPwvLqWC8dg3pbYb2zwHZrIyPRUL8DSa5iK9kXIYN_R5eI0XCQ-6TsKjtPeyXQiN6NrJD60WArGN0gt3FUB-Sk0dvEZBRph19uYugRIvJQqzlpG1rvZtjnzpzsamtcJbnPtBkDMI/s400/SPETTACOLO-Habemus-Papam-int.jpg" title="Habemus Papam by Nanni Moretti" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freeze Frame from <i>Habemus Papam</i> by Nanni Moretti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">He
will be proceeded by the senior Cardinal-Deacon, Jean-Louis Tauran of France,
who will proclaim those famous words,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Annuntio vobis gaudium magnum</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">
(I announce to you a great joy):<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Habemus Papam!</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">
(We have a pope!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Eminentissimum ac reverendissimum
Dominum</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (The most eminent and most reverend Lord),<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Dominum … Sanctæ Romanæ Ecclesiæ
Cardinalem …<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">(Lord
[First Name] Cardinal of the Holy Roman Church [Last Name]),<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Qui sibi nomen imposuit …<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Who
takes for himself the name of [Papal Name].<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGGmpUeGRDj61WQRpmIVJeVnkzreN2_VqSBMcQQ1ij1FGVC6SSBM8jeHACTcAziJflCdmveYAi00ubna91HH3se33G9VZyGmh8Vxl5-a8sobh_NagBeHdM9vOG-T59yDtnEx1D0b62VVU/s1600/Habemus+Papam+of+Benedict+XV.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Habemus Papam Benedict XVI" border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGGmpUeGRDj61WQRpmIVJeVnkzreN2_VqSBMcQQ1ij1FGVC6SSBM8jeHACTcAziJflCdmveYAi00ubna91HH3se33G9VZyGmh8Vxl5-a8sobh_NagBeHdM9vOG-T59yDtnEx1D0b62VVU/s400/Habemus+Papam+of+Benedict+XV.jpg" title="Habemus Papam Benedict XVI" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Papal appearance of Benedict XVI, 18 April 2005. Sydney Morning Herald</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Then
to the roars of the crowd, the man himself will appear and give his first <i>Urbi et Orbi</i> (To the city [of Rome] and
to the world) Apostolic Benediction. Hereafter, he will only give this
important (read: indulgence-granting) blessing on Easter and Christmas. Despite
living in Rome for over eight years, through many Easters and Christmases and one papal election (so far), I have
never been present for this speech. Here’s hoping I make it this time!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">All
of this will be happening in the coming week, so it’s a very exciting time to
be in Rome. I will be posting a few more times leading up to the election
Tuesday afternoon, with a list of the <i>papabili</i> (pope-ables) and a few ominous
papal predictions that might give some insight into who the mystery man might
be. So be sure to stop by often, or follow me on Twitter (<a href="https://twitter.com/thepinesofrome" target="_blank">@ThePinesOfRome</a>)
where I will be on #SmokeWatch from Tuesday evening until the big announcement!</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 19px;"><i>Images sources: <a href="http://holysoulshermitage.com/" target="_blank">1</a>, <a href="http://www.catholicherald.co.uk/news/2013/03/08/conclave-to-begin-on-tuesday/" target="_blank">2</a>, <a href="http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-202_162-57573010/papal-conclave-date-set-how-does-it-work/" target="_blank">3</a>, <a href="http://live.lastampa.it/Event/THE_PAPAL_CONCLAVE" target="_blank">4</a>, <a href="http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/03/08/us-pope-succession-security-idUSBRE9270SM20130308" target="_blank">5</a>, <a href="http://www.luxinarcana.org/" target="_blank">6</a>, <a href="http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-202_162-57573010/papal-conclave-date-set-how-does-it-work/" target="_blank">7,</a> <a href="http://darkroom.baltimoresun.com/2013/02/picking-a-pope-last-papal-conclave/cardinals-gather-before-the-start-of-the-2/" target="_blank">8</a>, <a href="http://blogs.reuters.com/faithworld/2013/02/16/conclave-electing-the-new-pope-could-start-before-march-15-vatican/" target="_blank">9</a>, <a href="http://abcnews.go.com/topics/entertainment/artists/michelangelo-painter.htm" target="_blank">10</a>, <a href="http://www.luxinarcana.org/" target="_blank">11</a>, <a href="http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-202_162-57573010/papal-conclave-date-set-how-does-it-work/" target="_blank">12,</a> <a href="http://www.luxinarcana.org/" target="_blank">13</a> ,<a href="http://electingthepope.net/category/how-the-conclave-works/" target="_blank">14,</a> <a href="http://www.parrocchiagavarnorinnovata.org/karol%20wojtyla/karol%20wojtyla%202.htm" target="_blank">15,</a> <a href="http://elcientoporuno.blogspot.it/" target="_blank">16,</a> <a href="http://www.avantionline.it/2013/02/habemus-papam-nanni-moretti-aveva-previsto-le-dimissioni-del-santo-padre/" target="_blank">17</a>, <a href="http://www.smh.com.au/news/World/Faiths-enforcer-offers-hand-of-unity/2005/04/20/1113854264674.html" target="_blank">18</a></i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 19px;"><br /></span></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 19px;"><a href="http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/z-Info/Photogallery/conclave/index.html" target="_blank">Click here</a> for more images from past conclaves.</span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-6328994820913358522013-03-07T19:40:00.003+01:002013-03-07T20:10:05.428+01:00A Short* History of Conclave<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIte_q1rJ9zEyei3eFTggGdrYSKgiVrTaN9u8HPELsX-gxBG_FrubUGrCtDadrpng2pJSkFryS2BMgFGkRvJif8MnT1AHo8gT9mZH6iVC09h-jTWtVhVF7QFdPR5wpvq0om75D6NRMuFQ/s1600/sistine-chapel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cardinal Sistine Chapel conclave" border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIte_q1rJ9zEyei3eFTggGdrYSKgiVrTaN9u8HPELsX-gxBG_FrubUGrCtDadrpng2pJSkFryS2BMgFGkRvJif8MnT1AHo8gT9mZH6iVC09h-jTWtVhVF7QFdPR5wpvq0om75D6NRMuFQ/s400/sistine-chapel.jpg" title="Cardinal doors Sistine Chapel conclave" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Archbishop Piero Marini, 18 April 2005. <span style="line-height: 115%;">© Reuters/Osservatore Romano</span></span></span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">*Disclaimer: Despite the title, this post is not short. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This Tuesday afternoon (5 March 2012), around 1:15, the Sistine Chapel closed its doors to the public in preparation for conclave, which, although it has not been officially announced, is expected to begin early next week. (Side note: how cool would it be if the new pope were elected on the Ides of March? I'm mean, we've had enough omens since the Artist Formerly Known as Pope Benedict XVI announced his impending resignation, what's one more?)</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But before conclave begins, before I go into what exactly it entails, and who the biggest contenders are, I'd like to delve into the history of this sacred ritual. I have always been fascinated with conclave. It's such a mysterious and secretive rite, dating back so many centuries, it makes the history-lover in me tingle with glee. Plus, it takes place in the Sistine Chapel. It is an understatement so say I have spent a lot of time in the Sistine Chapel. If I had to hazard a guess, I would say that I have been inside its sacred and gloriously frescoed walls at least 500 times (not nearly as many as the <i>maritino</i> though, I must reluctantly admit).</span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCuVdgJXgmS0UfdRi4KE1JQ7LZlvSVPAfv0HJoqpehvOPt3sDt4loimAdP982Xu8O42MMRrN4l-NOMWdbA2CpVjEU-HkG2r0lqqXY_Z_UHNLLqmT83wv_UgWOMZyWhSknL_fZj7IB5Uhw/s1600/sistine_chapel_vatican_931698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Sistine Chapel exterior Vatican" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCuVdgJXgmS0UfdRi4KE1JQ7LZlvSVPAfv0HJoqpehvOPt3sDt4loimAdP982Xu8O42MMRrN4l-NOMWdbA2CpVjEU-HkG2r0lqqXY_Z_UHNLLqmT83wv_UgWOMZyWhSknL_fZj7IB5Uhw/s400/sistine_chapel_vatican_931698.jpg" title="Sistine Chapel exterior Vatican" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sistine Chapel</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Everyone knows that popes are elected inside that spectacular chapel in the Vatican, but exactly how long has that tradition been around? The chapel itself was built only in the late 15th century, and we've had Popes in Rome the time of St. Peter. Where was conclave held before 1481, when the structure of the chapel was completed? And once conclave moved to the chapel, was it always held there? The answers will probably surprise you.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Although the title of this post contains the word "short," I have a feeling it is going to be something a challenge to adhere to it, what with nearly 2000 years of history to cover. To avoid going into the history of the papacy itself (although that would be a fun--for me, probably not you--and challenging undertaking and I hope to attempt it soon), I will brush over the first millennium entirely, because during that time, papal elections did not exist. The pope was chosen by various means, sometimes entirely secular, such as by appointment of the Holy Roman Emperor. It wasn't until 1059, when Pope Nicholas II issued the papal bull <i>In n</i><i>omine Domini</i>, that an election by cardinals was established.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The very first pope to be chosen by a college of cardinal-electors was Nicholas II's successor, Pope Alexander II. The election took place in the church of San Pietro in Vincoli in 1061. But although it was an election, and although a pope was made, it was not, technically, a conclave. The word conclave, as many of you are surely aware, comes from the Latin <i>cum clave</i>, "with key." In fact, the first true conclave wouldn't take place for another two hundred years.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">During the 12th and 13th centuries, papal elections were held in a slew of different locations, including over half a dozen churches in Rome, from St John's in Lateran to the old St. Peter's, a Benedictine monastery on the Palatine Hill, the Septizodium (before it was practically raised to the ground by Sixtus V), an Abbey in France, and the cities of Terracina, Naples, Verona, Pisa, Perugia, Ferrara, and of course, Viterbo. It was the general practice to elect the new pope wherever the previous pope had died.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYdQZRVVEdRSBBxePBASbOFc9F-4uWxxQsrEeJDfOossnw2Wnuw86_lM_1J6pmMqWazveBAyTmq0R3DljQDK9WDvRHm-3k4vAyxtENVSVTYNrTngGI9CqDQ53i_YBdlr3XMHPKB_dcF0Q/s1600/360px-PalPapiViterbo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Palazzo dei Papi Palace of Popes Viterbo" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYdQZRVVEdRSBBxePBASbOFc9F-4uWxxQsrEeJDfOossnw2Wnuw86_lM_1J6pmMqWazveBAyTmq0R3DljQDK9WDvRHm-3k4vAyxtENVSVTYNrTngGI9CqDQ53i_YBdlr3XMHPKB_dcF0Q/s400/360px-PalPapiViterbo.JPG" title="Palazzo dei Papi Viterbo" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Palazzo dei Papi, Viterbo</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Some of these elections were less than efficient. The election of 1261 dragged on nearly three months, that of 1264 for five, but by far the biggest debacle in papal election history (perhaps even worse that last week's <a href="http://money.cnn.com/2013/02/25/investing/world-markets-italy/" target="_blank">catastrophic Italian parliamentary election</a>), occurred upon the death of Pope Clement IV in 1268. The election began in November of that year in the Palace of the Popes in Viterbo, where the official seat of the papacy had moved during that time of instability in Rome. When, for political reasons, the cardinals were incapable of reaching an agreement, the election process dragged on for nearly three years. Two years in, the magistrates of Viterbo had locked the cardinals up in the palace, and put them on a ration of bread and water, in the hopes that it would hasten a decision. When even that didn't work, the roof of the hall in which they were convened was removed, supposedly in order to facilitate the Holy Spirit to descend upon the hapless cardinals.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWiVaJnJJVZ5_O-K1taBF5hzbMJ09y2m9p4P62VPyrR-W89VnU0g2n2vUz0eoc3XexRJTgX_zmNrS03j29r9S9MkPriBj_eMgDMwi8eI19YKbJI0Nr-IksBdfiZ7zwsOukanGYWeju8aI/s1600/Longest+conclave+in+history.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Longest Conclave History Viterbo" border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWiVaJnJJVZ5_O-K1taBF5hzbMJ09y2m9p4P62VPyrR-W89VnU0g2n2vUz0eoc3XexRJTgX_zmNrS03j29r9S9MkPriBj_eMgDMwi8eI19YKbJI0Nr-IksBdfiZ7zwsOukanGYWeju8aI/s400/Longest+conclave+in+history.jpg" title="Longest Conclave in History Viterbo" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>The Longest Conclave in History</i></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">At long last, in September of 1271, Pope Gregory X was elected and the longest papal election (and technically, the first conclave) was at an end. Little wonder, after that fiasco, that the newly minted pope issued a papal bull, <i>Ubi periculum</i>, in 1274 that established new rules regarding the election, such as the sequestering of the cardinals and menu restrictions after a set number of days. Many of these rules are still in use today. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nKA4kkNiC-gQQcfvG5Z8mTnWPeTyR19fgxvV1N8zkqtTU4ON71xoZl30af1rC_vDJoJfh4i49CcjAZYraQOY1eJ_rIzJiRm2tupE9cSKvDt-A5EAPopXImwf3NZTrl9F_SN16q9NoY0/s1600/IMG_3131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Pope Gregory X Viterbo Palazzo dei Papi" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nKA4kkNiC-gQQcfvG5Z8mTnWPeTyR19fgxvV1N8zkqtTU4ON71xoZl30af1rC_vDJoJfh4i49CcjAZYraQOY1eJ_rIzJiRm2tupE9cSKvDt-A5EAPopXImwf3NZTrl9F_SN16q9NoY0/s400/IMG_3131.JPG" title="Pope Gregory X Viterbo" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Portrait of Gregory X</i>, Sala del Conclave, Palazzo dei Papi, Viterbo.</span></span></td></tr>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gregory's new conclave rules worked, and the next election in 1276 was wrapped up in an astonishing two days. Unfortunately the sensible rules were chucked out later that same year, and soon the old problems cropped up again, as you'll remember in the case of our friend <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/pope-celestine-v-other-pope-who-resigned.html" target="_blank">Pope Celestine V</a>. If one good thing did come out of the old hermit's papacy, it was the reinstatement of the conclave rules of <i>Ubi periculum</i> in 1294.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Still, just 15 years later, as a result of the conflict between the papacy and the French king, the seat of the papacy was moved to Avignon, France, and the following seven conclaves took place at the Palace of the Popes in that lovely Provencal city, each one producing a French pontiff. When the papacy was at last restored to Rome in 1376, and a conclave for the next pope occurred two years later, Roman citizens rioted, so strong was their fear that another Frenchman would ascend the throne of St. Peter and the court would be moved back to France. It's important to point out that the papal court was vital to the economy of Rome, for it brought pilgrims to the city, good for business for innkeepers, rosary-makers, tour guides, and sellers of all kinds of souvenirs (not much has changed there). Also, the presence of wealthy prelates and cardinals guaranteed work for the city's tailors, artists, skilled craftsmen like cabinet-makers and weavers, and, of course, prostitutes.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdkjI2edFilhu680xG_UWltdgpS3G7WMvmFUomalCIzkXubOLUo1BHjyd_k-FMHoFVdvzBC5OKA2k8VhQpfTTVZB_-iWMPoa81zv9YCWflek0unFJWO6XYdhicPEeVHHNJBKSV3kvnXhY/s1600/palais-des-papes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Palace Popes Palais Papes Avignon" border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdkjI2edFilhu680xG_UWltdgpS3G7WMvmFUomalCIzkXubOLUo1BHjyd_k-FMHoFVdvzBC5OKA2k8VhQpfTTVZB_-iWMPoa81zv9YCWflek0unFJWO6XYdhicPEeVHHNJBKSV3kvnXhY/s400/palais-des-papes.jpg" title="Palais du Papes Avignon" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Palais du Papes, Avignon</span></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-IE" style="font-family: "inherit","serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-IE;">In the end, under the pressure of
the Roman populace, an Italian, Urban VI Prignano, was elected, the last time a
non-cardinal became pope. Despite Urban’s Italian blood, he had such strong
French sympathies that many of the cardinals who had elected him, regretting
their decision, formed their own faction and elected an anti-pope. Thus began
the great Western Schism that would divide the church for almost 40 years.
Although the backstabbing and betrayal going on in the Vatican today, even as I
write this, does not bode well for the future of the Catholic church, if it
could survive the Western Schism (which eventually produced a second anti-pope
in Pisa–so three popes in total were vying for power), it can survive anything.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-IE" style="font-family: "inherit","serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-IE;">All this chaos finally came to an
end between 1415-17 during which time two anti-popes were deposed, the
legitimate Pope Gregory XII was pressured to resign (some claim he, not
Celestine V, was the last pope to resign before Benedict XVI, but considering
the circumstances, I find it pointless to compare the two events), and Martin V
Colonna was named pope in the Council of Constance. Every so often, anti-popes
popped up, but none were taken too seriously. Martin V’s papacy not only marked
the end of the Western Schism, but also the dawn of the Renaissance in Rome. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSRckchzXHYByZAGIhZ_n_ftfBiXQ8rCQjgCuzhUl526Gn6ptYkmcseBUbaGuBxbUvpV0FnDuF74uRXwU2swgyUL2FB6eQUhad7Bu38TyJGpha2YcFRhNptswOrNOqI8W759MCessEEI/s1600/Habemus_Papam_1415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Habemus Papam Election Pope Martin V" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSRckchzXHYByZAGIhZ_n_ftfBiXQ8rCQjgCuzhUl526Gn6ptYkmcseBUbaGuBxbUvpV0FnDuF74uRXwU2swgyUL2FB6eQUhad7Bu38TyJGpha2YcFRhNptswOrNOqI8W759MCessEEI/s400/Habemus_Papam_1415.jpg" title="Habemus Papam Election of Pope Martin V" width="301" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Habemus Papam, Election of Pope Martin V</span></span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-IE" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-IE;">Not until 1455
did it become the norm to hold conclave in the Apostolic Palace in the Vatican,
beginning with the election of the first Borgia pope, Callisto III. Coincidentally,
it is Callisto’s nephew, our favorite <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/01/borgia-pope-pinturicchio-and-la-bella.html" target="_blank">papal bad boy Alexander<span style="color: black;"> </span>VI</a>,
who holds the honor of being the first pope to be elected in the Sistine
Chapel, in 1492. </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1awwulwNneacitzJJ70cM60ki18rG7P0acAjMRPz474YXfj1U0rONtkAIJD_8nWOg3LAL95SDwVykI8mixlj_zXet-vaCvt-uS9H9ibypssY5SYDzxu6JqWfSfPEVkyP1YMyMlZRHHlQ/s1600/tv-borgias-jordan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Borgias Conclave Cardinal della Rovere" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1awwulwNneacitzJJ70cM60ki18rG7P0acAjMRPz474YXfj1U0rONtkAIJD_8nWOg3LAL95SDwVykI8mixlj_zXet-vaCvt-uS9H9ibypssY5SYDzxu6JqWfSfPEVkyP1YMyMlZRHHlQ/s400/tv-borgias-jordan.jpg" title="The Borgias Conclave Cardinal della Rovere" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Freeze frame from Showtime's<i> The Borgias</i></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I'm sure it won't surprise you to hear that <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/rome-in-time-of-borgias-has-anything.html" target="_blank">Alexander VI</a>'s election was one of the most infamous in history. If you've watched<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/01/borgia-orgy-tonight.html" target="_blank"> The Borgias</a>, you've seen this portrayed, although getting history from a television drama might not be the most accurate route. Here's what Nigel Cawthorne, in his book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sex-Lives-Popes-Nigel-Cawthorne/dp/185375546X" target="_blank"><i>Sex Lives of the Popes</i></a>, has to say about it:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>...Rodrigo used the promise of rich preferments and out-and-out bribery to win the election. Some cardinals wanted palaces; others castles, land, or money. Cardinal Orsini sold his vote for the castles of Monticelli and Sariani. Cardinal Ascanio Sforza wanted four mule-loads of silver and the lucrative chancellorship of the Church to secure his vote. Cardinal Colonna got the wealthy Abbey of St. Benedict... The Cardinal of St. Angelo wanted the bishopric of Porto... Cardinal Savelli was given the Civita Castellana. ... The clinching vote belonged to a Venetian monk. All he wanted was 5,000 crowns and a night with Rodrigo's daughter, the lovely twelve-year-old <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2011/07/channeling-lucrezia-borgia-at-palazzo.html" target="_blank">Lucrezia</a>.</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">That is all pretty damning, although I will say this highly entertaining work of "non-fiction" has no references of any kind, so take it with a grain of salt.</span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzXXuMRglheGJESVIekt-0AeZat1GFS2WJm5h6tft7wLvW6YcBHnAtNm5cSdF5lArUTxkObfK4KyVvh2r_9Zu8_GQnoEbaQcCqm5WpSSurK6FPBhiq9wQ2tHS2T8P7GyVxnenXmKaquI/s1600/IMG_1570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sex Lives Popes Nigel Cawthorne" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzXXuMRglheGJESVIekt-0AeZat1GFS2WJm5h6tft7wLvW6YcBHnAtNm5cSdF5lArUTxkObfK4KyVvh2r_9Zu8_GQnoEbaQcCqm5WpSSurK6FPBhiq9wQ2tHS2T8P7GyVxnenXmKaquI/s400/IMG_1570.JPG" title="Sex Lives of the Popes Nigel Cawthorne" width="300" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
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<span lang="EN-IE" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IE;">One would imagine that the Sistine Chapel, so connected in modern
consciousness with conclave, remained the <i>de facto</i> location for papal
elections from that year forward, but in fact, during the following four centuries,
only a handful of conclaves are recorded to have taken place there. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-IE" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IE;">In the 1540s, Michelangelo, whose work in the Sistine Chapel was already
considered a masterpiece, was hired to fresco the walls of the Pauline Chapel,
just a few steps away. This smaller and more intimate chapel, built for the
by-then dead Pope Paul III Farnese, was considered more appropriate for the
solemn task of electing the pastor of the Catholic church. Michelangelo’s most
famous work in that chapel (unfortunately closed to the public) is the <i>Crucifixion
of St. Peter</i>. The martyr lies against the cross, upside down as he is about
to be crucified. With visual effort, he lifts his head up and cranes his neck
to look down at the viewer. During a conclave, Peter could</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> gaze into the eyes of each of the
cardinal-electors, reminding them of their sacred duty: to elect the man who
will fill his shoes and represent Christ on Earth. Still, only two conclaves
have ever been held in the Pauline Chapel: that of 1549-50 that elected Julius
III, and that of 1559 that elected Pius IV. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizSeFQrEz90LxLepfEcwLBWkUdkSI9JaNRvODL-xmg6HL1atzrwbG3aXFchdu1jfBfEqa3fGyjoZb4i5JLeJGP5_YewybXzkxjFlzE4Z9X_P6nvdIrF69UmCvj7pN6r1Scp0Z4sNOnsSI/s1600/michaelangelo-stpeter-01211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Crucifixion St. Peter Michelangelo Cappella Paolina Pauline Chapel" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizSeFQrEz90LxLepfEcwLBWkUdkSI9JaNRvODL-xmg6HL1atzrwbG3aXFchdu1jfBfEqa3fGyjoZb4i5JLeJGP5_YewybXzkxjFlzE4Z9X_P6nvdIrF69UmCvj7pN6r1Scp0Z4sNOnsSI/s400/michaelangelo-stpeter-01211.jpg" title="Crucifixion of St. Peter Michelangelo Cappella Paolina" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Crucifixion of St. Peter</i>, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Pauline Chapel, Apostolic Palace, Vatican</span></span></td></tr>
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Peter’s stern gaze failed to elicit the appropriate<i> gravitas</i> for the
situation at hand, at least in the case of Julius III’s election. This conclave
became notorious for rampant bribery, the influence of the Holy Roman Emperor,
and cardinals passing inside information to bankers who would then make bets on
the election’s outcome. It was Pius IV, moving into the thick of the Counter
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elections continued in various areas of the Apostolic Palace (sometimes the
Sistine Chapel) without much incident (with the exception of the conclave of
1799-1800, which took place in Venice due to the threat of Napoleon) until
1823, when it was moved to the Quirinal Palace, the official residence of the
popes during the 19th century. It took place in a chapel that, while in terms
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exact same dimensions. The Pauline Chapel in the Quirinale, not to be confused
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYPdD7KOalZnnMPQAuP39J3KNBrWraNBi4dhesC_XJLFTYsRMt_P_O606kiWTfcoIHBug7Q_VqqZaFLPiqvsl6LGpP5qL3m_-6lCVSgOTOufqZfDepOrhfAaH0fjzoIPolhvDl7VAFIvk/s1600/Cappella-Paolina-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Cappella Paolina Quirinale Pauline Chapel" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYPdD7KOalZnnMPQAuP39J3KNBrWraNBi4dhesC_XJLFTYsRMt_P_O606kiWTfcoIHBug7Q_VqqZaFLPiqvsl6LGpP5qL3m_-6lCVSgOTOufqZfDepOrhfAaH0fjzoIPolhvDl7VAFIvk/s400/Cappella-Paolina-01.jpg" title="Cappella Paolina Quirinale" width="400" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cappella Paolina, Palazzo Quirinale, Roma</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After Rome was captured from the Papal States by the nine-year-old Kingdom of Italy in 1870, during the papacy of Pius IX, the Quirinal Palace became the residence of the king, and conclave once again returned to the Sistine Chapel. Pope Leo XIII was elected there in 1878, as has every pope since. The election of Pope Pius X in 1903, was the last conclave that was openly influenced by a political leader outside the church. The favorite for pope, Leo XIII's former Secretary of State Cardinal Mariano Rampolla del Tindaro, was vetoed by the Prince-Bishop of Krakow in the name Emperor Francis Joseph of Austria, possibly because of Rampolla's support for the French Third Republic. This was considered scandalous by the cardinals present, but as the King of France, the King of Spain and the Emperor of Austria all had veto power by law, there was nothing they could do.</span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizquG-x6t9CYMkUf6HCwdHDM9hQYR9q-kfDvaEATIC8guhU7UOAN9eSKRWYNA4_Ixl4VX3-Gr7rVxCTtoe-oWQnqL5-3hKdDidFtH07yyBMAt0zy3jZFkYTQByeJghbIq-jC_DJXrXp_4/s1600/PopePiusX.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Saint Pope Pius X Sarto" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizquG-x6t9CYMkUf6HCwdHDM9hQYR9q-kfDvaEATIC8guhU7UOAN9eSKRWYNA4_Ixl4VX3-Gr7rVxCTtoe-oWQnqL5-3hKdDidFtH07yyBMAt0zy3jZFkYTQByeJghbIq-jC_DJXrXp_4/s400/PopePiusX.JPG" title="Pope Pius X Sarto" width="240" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Pope Pius X Sarto</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">When eventually elected, Pius X (later to become a saint) took the opportunity to eliminate the power of veto of the heads of state. He went even further to warn that anyone attempting to introduce a veto into conclave would be immediately excommunicated. Since then, as part of the solemn vow at the beginning of a conclave, all cardinal-electors must swear not to introduce a veto on behalf of a secular monarch. Pius X was the last pope to make major reforms of conclave, consolidating almost all of the previous rules set up by various popes throughout the centuries.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If you made it through this whole post (without falling asleep) I am seriously impressed. There were enough names and dates to make even the most avid history nerd's eyes glaze over. As you well know by now, if it didn't happen at least 100 years ago, I probably haven't heard about it yet. I humbly decline the post of up-to-the-minute correspondent during this exciting papal resignation/conclave period. Head to Patricia Thomas' delightful and informative blog, <a href="http://www.mozzarellamamma.com/blog/" target="_blank">Mozzarella Mamma</a> for all the breaking Vatican news. She's covering the conclave for the Associated Press, and attends press conferences with the Papal Spokesman, Father Lombardi, every day. If she isn't well informed, no one is. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">However, I will be on smoke watch from the moment conclave begins until those glorious words "Habemus Papam" ring out. Follow me on twitter (<a href="https://twitter.com/ThePinesOfRome" target="_blank">@ThePinesOfRome</a>) where I will announce the very minute that white smoke billows so you can high-tail it to St. Peter's or, if you're a bit further away, switch on the telly. In the meantime, stay tuned for my next post, detailing the rituals and rules of conclave. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I don't know about you, but after that, I need a cup of tea.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Image sources: <a href="http://blogs.reuters.com/faithworld/2013/02/16/conclave-electing-the-new-pope-could-start-before-march-15-vatican/" target="_blank">1</a>, <a href="http://worldalldetails.com/Slide/Sistine_Chapel_Vatican_exterior-1235.html" target="_blank">2</a>, <a href="http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palazzo_dei_Papi_%28Viterbo%29" target="_blank">3</a>, <a href="http://www.elezionepapa.it/2013/02/il-conclave-piu-lungo-della-storia/" target="_blank">4</a>, 5 by author, <a href="http://www.ohio.edu/people/toner/avignon/avignon.html" target="_blank">6</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Habemus_Papam_1415.jpg%20%20%20martin%20v" target="_blank">7</a>, <a href="http://life.nationalpost.com/2012/02/10/plot-to-kill-the-pope-more-reminiscent-of-the-borgias-than-21st-century-rome/" target="_blank">8,</a> 9 by author, <a href="http://www.sullivanart.com/caravaggio_borrows_from_michelan.html" target="_blank">10,</a> <a href="http://www.improntalaquila.org/2012/quirinale-concerto-nella-cappella-paolina-domenica-33301.html" target="_blank">11,</a> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PopePiusX.JPG" target="_blank">12</a></i></span></span></div>
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</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6756630213848829713.post-12024742537084039132013-02-27T23:53:00.000+01:002013-02-27T23:53:42.204+01:00A Pope's Last Stand: the final papal audience of Benedict XVI<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVv3o2-M7_BpCWbGEqma5lbll9oZyoRvQRNYeavQhai1IcOK98Mg5DeauI9tlFHiakZG9KSgc7LWFjJ-mMx83nMj9xmGvvENQ15SoclMkYBy6lsMNaM4BCgRIl3b1foSl7EqVvB9M7BZ8/s1600/IMG_1524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVv3o2-M7_BpCWbGEqma5lbll9oZyoRvQRNYeavQhai1IcOK98Mg5DeauI9tlFHiakZG9KSgc7LWFjJ-mMx83nMj9xmGvvENQ15SoclMkYBy6lsMNaM4BCgRIl3b1foSl7EqVvB9M7BZ8/s640/IMG_1524.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pope Benedict XVI's final audience, St. Peter's Square, 27 February 2013</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">On the night of
the 1st of April 2005, barely six months after moving to Rome, I stood
with my roommates in St. Peter’s Square, holding vigil with thousands of others
for Pope John Paul II. It was the night before he died, and the last full day
of his papacy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Today, in
strangely parallel yet contrasting circumstances, I stood in St. Peter’s
Square on the last full day of Pope Benedict XVI’s papacy. </span>As you can
imagine, the mood in the crowd was completely different: lighthearted, affectionate, nostalgic perhaps, but without a trace of grief or fear. And no surprise why: no one had died.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVHtCKVb5EQ-23phbpVAb8-YzGX4wZiD7q8oLukPkbQpC496oFYyFShcxrWKY_cEAIibRUIWqj5Pid51BJXo92pZwtIODYxQg-kkb-828ImlQTSM6FCHiHWAlxazmQ23Lh2pjVY6W-9Hk/s1600/IMG_1497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVHtCKVb5EQ-23phbpVAb8-YzGX4wZiD7q8oLukPkbQpC496oFYyFShcxrWKY_cEAIibRUIWqj5Pid51BJXo92pZwtIODYxQg-kkb-828ImlQTSM6FCHiHWAlxazmQ23Lh2pjVY6W-9Hk/s400/IMG_1497.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Holy Father, we love you"</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">On that April
night back in 2005, the warm spring air was heavy with collective grief. Nuns from
nearly every nation prayed the rosary, young couples cried into each other’s
shoulders, Latin American students sang and lit candles. And everyone’s eyes
were fixed upon the Pope’s window where his light shined on, late into the
night. We all expected it to be snuffed out at any moment, signifying that John Paul had breathed his last, and we were ready for the inevitable wail that would rise
up from the crowd. But the light was still burning when my friends and I made our way back
home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The next evening,
John Paul did die, and we returned to the square once more. Strangely, the
atmosphere was different. It was as if the oppressive grief of the night before
had lifted, and been replaced with a sense of peace, a knowledge that the
beloved pontiff was no longer in pain. The thousands of faithful seemed filled with a sense of quiet hope.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I took some poignant photos that I would love to share with you, but alas, they were lost when I accidentally smashed my external hard drive. (Major technology fail.) Ah well, at least I have the memories, which are surprisingly vivid.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Nearly eight years
later, once again I got to witness the end of a papacy, albeit a much less painful end for many Catholics. But what was, for me, so thrilling about being there was the knowledge that I was witnessing history. </span>After all, it has been <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/pope-celestine-v-other-pope-who-resigned.html" target="_blank">over seven centuries since a pope has voluntarily resigned</a>, and everyone is curious about how things will play out in the next few weeks as a conclave unlike any other (with the previous pope still alive) approaches.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsx8dURGtDUhuhDCtIETuQxZp4vm0x4aoLsgXkpLfS1-4hq7fCfAunsa1KqXzw05Vcp7kWvJOTVLru6JSz1sefF1Dk1AL45LJRpgkwvL6mI01VSIikLNTv2mUVnRI2GcP5232NZLkMom4/s1600/IMG_1496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsx8dURGtDUhuhDCtIETuQxZp4vm0x4aoLsgXkpLfS1-4hq7fCfAunsa1KqXzw05Vcp7kWvJOTVLru6JSz1sefF1Dk1AL45LJRpgkwvL6mI01VSIikLNTv2mUVnRI2GcP5232NZLkMom4/s400/IMG_1496.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking down Via della Lungara toward St. Peter's to see the pope's final appearance</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">As I left my apartment around 8:30 this morning, without realizing the significance of it, my feet led me along Via della Lungara, which was originally known as Via Sancta, since it led directly from Trastevere to the Vatican, and was a well-trod route for pilgrims heading to St. Peter's. It was an ancient Roman road that was enlarged, coincidentally, by our good friend<a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2012/01/borgia-pope-pinturicchio-and-la-bella.html" target="_blank"> Pope Alexander VI Borgia</a>. Is it my imagination or does<i> <a href="http://thepinesofrome.blogspot.it/2013/02/rome-in-time-of-borgias-has-anything.html" target="_blank">il papa cattivo</a></i> keep popping up everywhere I turn?</span></div>
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Once within sight of the Vatican, I met up with my partner in crime, Theresa, and we braced ourselves to enter the scrum. Neither of us like to be in a big crowd, but our need to be part of history triumphed over our agoraphobia and we heartily braved the masses.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXc29Yb6mHPDXkRy8373JL8FkEGLC_pe_128fI0RJWu29doii2CqnW22ikPGD_EPZ6YHg8QI8CnkIEBAg7B_G8UJIP2OVwJxd2ROlJiGorzopjrrWcA0MQoZ6ef7Tntg0yQASeLqiFxV8/s1600/IMG_1498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXc29Yb6mHPDXkRy8373JL8FkEGLC_pe_128fI0RJWu29doii2CqnW22ikPGD_EPZ6YHg8QI8CnkIEBAg7B_G8UJIP2OVwJxd2ROlJiGorzopjrrWcA0MQoZ6ef7Tntg0yQASeLqiFxV8/s400/IMG_1498.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upwards of 150,000 people came to say goodbye to Benedict XVI</td></tr>
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It was actually not as bad as I had expected. It was just after nine and the square was still filling up, so we drifted toward the left of the square's two fountains, the one built by Gianlorenzo Bernini to match Carlo Maderno's earlier one on the right (north) side. As luck would have it, the fountain was off and bone dry. Several people and a few journalists were standing up on the edge of the fountain, so we figured, why not? We pulled ourselves up, thinking we would just take the opportunity to snap a few photos over the heads of the rest of the crowd, but it was so nice up there, and so much less crowded than below, that we ended up staying there for the entire audience.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTIpRvl-1SPwGBAnM7s1DZp5eFJiogqICyJq51uJTh_XSqrDmKe1ikr8_PpKjNqQXJ7iogtfvXOrRxSxbcJ6En9l6BkGceodD4BA7h04eFp8xnJEwgOJxxsbTbyZMV_Ipwa-3QcbWpK8/s1600/IMG_1502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTIpRvl-1SPwGBAnM7s1DZp5eFJiogqICyJq51uJTh_XSqrDmKe1ikr8_PpKjNqQXJ7iogtfvXOrRxSxbcJ6En9l6BkGceodD4BA7h04eFp8xnJEwgOJxxsbTbyZMV_Ipwa-3QcbWpK8/s400/IMG_1502.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You never realize how huge those fountains are until you are actually standing inside one of them.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8NzRlLx_HihKunhH_6Il88VxQQXOorl4NVHIkTkvWX_PVIgNCmst-fAvBi8LOvNtqdIpkUjlLT6h-Khz134vsNrY7eh4qnbn50CdhZgdukTqYdTrEjg6RiYLEh9V_kNINXd7rt0Ltqyc/s1600/IMG_1531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8NzRlLx_HihKunhH_6Il88VxQQXOorl4NVHIkTkvWX_PVIgNCmst-fAvBi8LOvNtqdIpkUjlLT6h-Khz134vsNrY7eh4qnbn50CdhZgdukTqYdTrEjg6RiYLEh9V_kNINXd7rt0Ltqyc/s400/IMG_1531.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This cute French family was climbing up the fountain to get the best possible view.</td></tr>
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We had a panoramic view of the entire square, and the Pope himself, under his canopy, was in our direct line of sight, although little more than a tiny white dot from where we stood. He rode past, not far away, in his little Pope-mobile, and we would have been able to get a very good look at him, had it not been for all those darned pilgrims and their cumbersome banners. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-ER0L6tv9pc92ps6ua4CHnPABVkdEK7xEZm1_DdRaT-6Id7T368EXS7SjTFWxPdnq5fq7aL2IOmDpjTTGcwqRIO6fibAlpMPI1ov6dKLE3iUxwpv4GAIJEO58Z0yFjLFqvcw6NH4y9Q/s1600/IMG_1535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-ER0L6tv9pc92ps6ua4CHnPABVkdEK7xEZm1_DdRaT-6Id7T368EXS7SjTFWxPdnq5fq7aL2IOmDpjTTGcwqRIO6fibAlpMPI1ov6dKLE3iUxwpv4GAIJEO58Z0yFjLFqvcw6NH4y9Q/s400/IMG_1535.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: small;">So much for our view!</span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-efZD-Ci1EOTA3VdDzwAFdaBeqeBYg4vJw9hrnuukLz2Xjh67gumdRw3DincYofn_3av0lbhIWEQJwEFKE9h1AUb12j-_e6h2Pf7ZvONBOocYGHrEcGekczVvEohfZnU_MGyOuSnAjPU/s1600/IMG_1499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-efZD-Ci1EOTA3VdDzwAFdaBeqeBYg4vJw9hrnuukLz2Xjh67gumdRw3DincYofn_3av0lbhIWEQJwEFKE9h1AUb12j-_e6h2Pf7ZvONBOocYGHrEcGekczVvEohfZnU_MGyOuSnAjPU/s400/IMG_1499.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The soon-to-be-ex-pope spoke for a considerable amount of time in his timid, accented Italian, reiterating his promise that he will not abandon the church, but will be serving it in a new way. The crowd was resplendent, powerfully shouting "<i>Vivat Papam</i>" in chorus and handing him babies to kiss as he drove through the throngs. Flags from seemingly every nation waved, from Spain to the United States to China to Ghana to Brunei to Palastine. The sun shined brilliantly all morning and it seemed much more like April than February, even for Rome. The difference in the two "last days" that I experienced was stark. The first, somber and grief-ridden; the second, joyful and full of hope for the future. And it struck me that perhaps it's silly to continue a tradition in which the pope, elected already an old man, should be expected to serve until his dying breath. The modern life expectancy means a pope could be made to languish for decades of ill health and frailty, all the while expected to make momentous decisions and provide leadership for billions of people. </div>
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To be honest, I haven't completely made my mind up as to how I feel about the pope's decision, but a little change certainly couldn't hurt.</div>
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<span lang="EN-US">As smug as I was with my prime spot, my <i>maritino</i>, as usual, found a way to top it. His position was just <i>slightly</i> better than mine, and I have him to thank for these last three photos.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUwohYVSXsrEwgXAa6WyCjuinktKiFe6QO7SXSFPbfKx1HJew71PWc99iZtCuexUJYCcL3QPpDrBPHDTgPyHVfJ76DF8sug1-TaCOmgjZe9b4wutBXAImC5l7MoJhqT8iRsQ9BJjyUxY/s1600/87965e2eb7abf14a6e539ff5bfc2b226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Benedict XVI last popemobile" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUwohYVSXsrEwgXAa6WyCjuinktKiFe6QO7SXSFPbfKx1HJew71PWc99iZtCuexUJYCcL3QPpDrBPHDTgPyHVfJ76DF8sug1-TaCOmgjZe9b4wutBXAImC5l7MoJhqT8iRsQ9BJjyUxY/s400/87965e2eb7abf14a6e539ff5bfc2b226.jpg" title="Benedict XVI's last ride in his Pope-mobile" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Benedict XVI's last ride in his Pope-mobile</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOaiv72svUJRR-VGdK6u1xYxJYKHZD_JrCseuDRNPLk343B_sVy-wpxCFUwi65WZ6fyrbNP9AFwyzWojWcCUzLR4eEEBkXHY-9lTWYJEilBhZiOjN2_OqhPsS9InB48z9u6m4zAS2SluM/s1600/efd9d475f633a7a4398ba891fa901d4e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOaiv72svUJRR-VGdK6u1xYxJYKHZD_JrCseuDRNPLk343B_sVy-wpxCFUwi65WZ6fyrbNP9AFwyzWojWcCUzLR4eEEBkXHY-9lTWYJEilBhZiOjN2_OqhPsS9InB48z9u6m4zAS2SluM/s400/efd9d475f633a7a4398ba891fa901d4e.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgty3fHzuU0K3vUjUse2TEVngY_nZOelwzxA9ngvtGW2mmkhCYmLArUElIOjr9r-OkdDPzb51fG-Hw69Vvujmgro8w1PhE7ZTx4NZQw7i0IObfO_4jbmkDPPz_Mz421HoDr_NUJ9kWDKLw/s1600/8b9ce7bf01f11e903f791b0a60046f2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Benedict XVI final audience" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgty3fHzuU0K3vUjUse2TEVngY_nZOelwzxA9ngvtGW2mmkhCYmLArUElIOjr9r-OkdDPzb51fG-Hw69Vvujmgro8w1PhE7ZTx4NZQw7i0IObfO_4jbmkDPPz_Mz421HoDr_NUJ9kWDKLw/s400/8b9ce7bf01f11e903f791b0a60046f2b.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Benedict XVI's final papal appearance</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><i>All photos by author and friends</i></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">If you enjoyed this post, please share it!
</div>Tiffany Parkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03156408126574861425noreply@blogger.com